Project Turbo Wagon: 2002 Subaru WRX

[JPolen01]

Well since Cabell won't post the car, we can just use this space for bullshittin

Hey polen, how much does it cost in MD for a vanity plate? Cause I don't consider it cheap here. I guess it kinda is but I'm always broke when it comes time to pay registration. It's like what $25 per year plus $10 if you do it on a custom plate like the jmu ones. That's almost doubles the cost of registration

$50/year plus $20 replacement fee. Except vintage plates (which are fucking sweet) which are $80/year with a $10/ year renewal fee ($10 fee for Bay/Agricultural plates as well).

[Senor_Taylor]

Whenever I change mine, I'm going with "TJ TACO" on my plates.

[davej]

VA is cheap compared to ny for custom plates, i think it was like a $60 fee at registration and an extra 30/year after that.

but historic is the way to go. cost $50 for the 2002, one time fee, no renewals (unless i get a custom plate, then it costs me $10/year) and there's no inspection sticker to get each year!

[JustinG]

all you need to do is STi Springs.....and sways.....and uppipe......and catless DP......and intake.....and Access Port.....and bigger turbo.....and front mount.....and......and......and.....

[CaptainHenreh]

all you need to do is STi Springs.....and sways.....and uppipe......and catless DP......and intake.....and Access Port.....and bigger turbo.....and front mount.....and......and......and.....

Access port? C'mon bro, it's a bugeye. DO YER OWN TUNING

[V1GiLaNtE]

all you need to do is STi Springs.....and sways.....and uppipe......and catless DP......and intake.....and Access Port.....and bigger turbo.....and front mount.....and......and......and.....

Lol at Front Mount. :lol:

I'm waiting on Kaan's promise to buy me a "Monster" hat. I demanded a matching pinstriped button up "shop shirt" to complete the look.

[Kaan]

the funny thing is...

• 1 item will be shipped to Kaan Canturk by MC Powersports. Estimated delivery: Sept. 24, 2014 - Sept. 29, 2014

[V1GiLaNtE]

Awwwwww yeaaaaaaaa

[V1GiLaNtE]

Grabbed some OEM aero bars today for half price. Should be a good base for bike/kayak racks.




An interesting note, there's some slight clunk in the driveline. Seems these cars over time like to wear out the trans mounts, motor mounts, rear diff bushings, etc.

I'm going to try and get it up on jack stands this week and inspect all of the bushings.

[JPolen01]

About damn time. That color is sweet fo sho.

[Sully]

About damn time. That color is sweet fo sho.

That's what does it for you? A shitty picture of the roof rack?

[JPolen01]

Check the OP dawg

[Sully]

I withdraw my previous statement

[Senor_Taylor]

When all hope was lost, OP delivers.

[CaptainHenreh]

SRP Bugeye Wagon. I approve.

[V1GiLaNtE]

I withdraw my previous statement

Good. STFU Matt and quit dickin up my thread. <3

Looking around I'll probably go ahead and order the Group N Transmission mount, Turn in Concepts cross-member bushings and their Klunk killer rear bushing set and see where that nets me for the sounds. If anything, it will replace some 12 year old bushings that probably could use a refresh. Seems replacing these bushings are some of the best bang for your buck performance items in terms of feel and putting power back into the drivetrain

You would think coming from an XJ I would be ok with all the noises. :thumbup:

I poured over the service records and based upon the history it looks like mechanically I'm in good shape. All the fluids are up to date, belts have been replaced and obviously the timing belt was done. I should be good for another 10k before I have to start thinking about fluids/sparks plugs/ etc.

It's due for an oil change in 1000 miles so I'll likely switch over to 5w-30 synthetic. I suspect it's been getting the dinosaur treatment for a while.

[ScottyB]

Seems replacing these bushings are some of the best bang for your buck performance items in terms of feel and putting power back into the drivetrain

Yep. TurnIn Concepts is the answer and I'd look into getting the "comfort" versions. it'll be stiffer than stock but still good for a daily. They are a great subaru vendor and the guys that started the company walk the walk so to speak.

if you have the bucks, an anti-lift kit for the front and lateral link/trailing arm bushings for the rear will make it feel awesome. i mean, you're under the car anyway right? 8)

It's due for an oil change in 1000 miles so I'll likely switch over to 5w-30 synthetic. I suspect it's been getting the dinosaur treatment for a while.

Rotella 5W-40 T6 is a great answer. its cheap, robust, plentiful, and does a great job of protecting the internals in an EJ205 which are prone to spinning bearings. really any 0W-40 or 5W-40 oil is solid insurance. if you really want to stick with 5W-30's get something robust like Syntec 0W-30 (it performs more like a 3W-35) or Mobil1 High Mileage 10W-30. DO NOT get any kind of "energy conserving" 5W-30, it'll shear down to a 20 grade in no time and you'll be rolling the dice.

[ViPER1313]

I have seen a lot of people make recommendations for higher weight oils then what a manufacturer recommends because of the "better protection" that the oil offers in lab tests / oil analysis results, what their cousin Gary told them, etc. Has anyone taken the time that the thicker oil takes to drain back to the oil pan into consideration? Couldn't a thicker oil having to travel through all the small drain holes from the head to the oil pan lead to oil starvation conditions, or at least exacerbate this issue in any car that already has oil slosh issues, especially at high RPM and during high G loads. If the oil can't drain back to the pan quickly enough, then you might be picking up nothing but air :dunno: .

[ScottyB]

I have seen a lot of people make recommendations for higher weight oils then what a manufacturer recommends because of the "better protection" that the oil offers in lab tests / oil analysis results, what their cousin Gary told them, etc. Has anyone taken the time that the thicker oil takes to drain back to the oil pan into consideration? Couldn't a thicker oil having to travel through all the small drain holes from the head to the oil pan lead to oil starvation conditions, or at least exacerbate this issue in any car that already has oil slosh issues, especially at high RPM and during high G loads. If the oil can't drain back to the pan quickly enough, then you might be picking up nothing but air :dunno: .

that's a good point with drainback. i have no idea how that sort of metric is measured with oils at operating temp, honestly. i've never heard of anyone encountering drainback issues at any oil grade unless they're tracking the cars at a high level and pooling oil up in the heads. just my experience.

a couple other random things to consider with this era of WRX:

- the EJ205, as an example, is sold in other countries with 40 weight oils specified from the factory (Australia is a good example) instead of 30 weights as US buyers are instructed. the engine is internally identical across markets. part of the reason is more widespread warm climates down under, and part of it is that their environmental regulations aren't as stringent as ours.

- the US owner's guide specs 40 weight oils for "severe duty", which obviously isn't racing where you'd have drainback issues, but i'd think Subaru would only warrant recommending it if the engine could deal with that grade of oil at any operating speed.

- the EJ (the 2 litre in particular) doesn't suffer spun bearings from g load (at least not the majority of cases, unless you're running slicks), its just happening under hard use. they have a pretty thin physical bearing area on the crank and the oil film just isn't holding up with 30 grade or less oils that aren't formulated for greater High Temp High Shear resistance.

- the EJ205 was used, pretty much unchanged, for like a decade. a lot of trial and error happened and the findings have been that the 40 weight stuff "just works" even for people that beat on the cars. not scientific, but its just info out there to consider.

[D_Eclipse9916]

I have seen a lot of people make recommendations for higher weight oils then what a manufacturer recommends because of the "better protection" that the oil offers in lab tests / oil analysis results, what their cousin Gary told them, etc. Has anyone taken the time that the thicker oil takes to drain back to the oil pan into consideration? Couldn't a thicker oil having to travel through all the small drain holes from the head to the oil pan lead to oil starvation conditions, or at least exacerbate this issue in any car that already has oil slosh issues, especially at high RPM and during high G loads. If the oil can't drain back to the pan quickly enough, then you might be picking up nothing but air :dunno: .

I would worry about bearing material thickness made for a certain viscosity. That said, the more I look into oils, the more I find it is "similiar" to tire size rates. AKA a 245 Dunlop is sized like a 255 Hankook. I personally stick with oem recommendations on the hot rating (which is apparently at 300degrees which your oil is very rarely at). Oil discussions are like saying chocolate or vanillla frosty, except for the fact that chocolate is scientifically better :wink:

FYI - My race car and my truck both use Rotella T6 Synthetic diesel oil and my engines bearings have always come out very clean.