Hey what’s up everyone my name is Alec Michaels and I am from Bel Air, Maryland. I am a sophomore and am majoring in business management. The car I drive is a white 2017 Honda Accord sport. It’s nothing special and all I have done is a few exterior mods for looks. I am looking into doing some things to it in the future just not sure what. I have always had a love for cars, but never learned any of the mechanics or how to work on them so I am definitely looking into learning some things and upgrading my car. My dad has a 2011 Bama tuned mustang gt right now with a bunch of upgrades like flow master exhaust, K&N air filter, strut bars and many more. My grandfather is also a car guy and buys salvaged corvettes and classics and fixes them up (pictures attached). But yea I am really excited for this club and look forward to meeting you all more and learning a bunch about cars!

As a kit car with a LS V8.  Who here wants to die in style?

https://www.autoblog.com/2018/09/11/you-...-to-assem/

Wuddup week 1 recap like and comment on Facebook!

Also if you're in the Goodspeed OG videovtjqy is featured I want to here from you [emoji3]




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What's up guys, my name is Andrew Lesemann, a local from Midlothian, Virginia. I'm a freshman at James Madison University and will be graduating in 2022, looking to go to graduate school, but we will see. Also, I'm a new member to Madison Motorsports, which I am very excited to be a part of. 

Back home I own a '92 Jeep Wrangler YJ with a 4L i6, which was my first vehicle. This Jeep opened new doors for me, and by learning and working on my Jeep, it turned into a true passion of mine ever since. I put a lot of work into the Jeep after buying it from a family friend, not just adding on to it, but mainly keeping it in good condition.  Trying to get her off my hands at the moment in hopes of buying a more track oriented car to broaden my knowledge in the mechanics of other vehicles, also to experience why each vehicle is unique in its own way.

Here are just a few things I have done (mostly cosmetic): New wheels (FUEL) and tires (BFG KO2), 52" Lightbar, Performance distributor, Bilstein 4600 shocks, Skyjacker steering stabilizer, Corbeau Baja R/S seats with 3 point harness, Magnaflow exhaust, Kicker speakers.

A little info about me: I'm a health science pre-med major, as I have background as an EMT and consider myself to be pretty extroverted. However, I have a love for the automotive industry as well, so I'm very conflicted on which route to take. I'm a very easy-going, calm, and optimistic person. I have a set of goals and dreams that I pursue everyday, taking opportunities as they come and looking for them as well. I'm greatly looking forward to what Madison Motorsports has in store for the future, and I'm thrilled to be a part of the ride. 

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What’s up my names Stephen Bradley and I am from Alexandria VA. I have been into cars for as long as I can remember and have only owned 1 car so far, a 1995 Lexus SC300. I am mainly into drifting and Japanese cars as that style is just so cool to me but I have interest in just about anything with four wheels.
Onto my car, so far the engine is stock all I have done is made a custom exhaust for it. But apart from that I have gone through just about the whole suspension from a whole host of adjustable arms, full polyurethane bushing conversion to fill in the rest, as well as coilovers, sway bars, etc. But other than that I’ve only added a couple OEM pieces to the exterior that either came as options or on later model cars.
I’ve owned this car for just about five years now and still have a room full of parts I need to install. For the future the motor is probably just gonna get a header for now as well as shrinking my parts pile as I get into my interior, install my 2 way Diff and keep replacing old parts that keep failing haha and yes this car is a factory 5 speed car.


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I took a capable autox, track, daily, ect. car and ruined it to my liking.

So you maybe thinking, "Wow this guy must get all the ladies at the Sheetz meet." And you maybe right, but I don't know because I do not go to local gatherings, excluding C&C. I made my car to compete in real car show events. The first of which is VA autofest, which is in the Richmond Flying Squirrels stadium. Unfortunately, this will be my first and last show of the season. I did not make my car this way to roll around looking like a hawt boi, but instead to truly make a car to compete.

What's done to the turd.

2009 Mini John Cooper Works, JCW Brembos, larger turbski and forged internals, with electronic LSD. If you didnt know what came on JCWs.

Wheels: Imported from Japan, Work Schwert SC2 (17×7 +35, +40), Spacers Motorsport hardware billet 15mm on the front, ECS tuning 8mm on the rear, If you care about what cheap tires I put on Nankang NS25 (205/40/r17)
Suspension: Fortune auto 500 coilovers (6k, 4k spring rates), MAXX-G hybrid upper and lower control arms, Alta rear endlinks, Fortune auto front endlinks, Power flex bushings
Performance: M7 Tuning oil catch can, Motorsport hardware stud conversion kit with MH titanium lugs. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors with R1 ceramic pads. And a Resonator delete.

If you want to know camber and clearance here ya go. Fronts: -2.7 with .5in between the tire and fender. Rears: -4.5 tucked with mm of clearance between the tire and the metal that holds the plastic fender on.

What's up next?

I need to get 5in swift springs to drop the front more because they are currently maxxed out and my 7in Fortunes are too long. So I'm going to rebuild all 4, go with swift springs with a 10k spring rate revalve and 8k revalve on the rears. I havent decided whether I want seats and a cage, or if I want to do some performance work, like downpipe, accessport, and tune. But for sure will get the coils rebuilt.

If you have questions ask em, or you have suggestions tell me. Any comments are appreciated, even if you want to tell me how dumb I am for breaking a nice car.

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I never rekeyed my bars, and with the new roof box, I went ahead and got everything on the same key.

So I have some sets of SKS Lock cores with 2 keys up for grabs.

I only have 2 of the control keys. So first 2 to buy gets one included. This is needed to change out an existing lock core.

Id like to do $8 per core. Trying to sell as an entire set, but let me know if you need 1 or 2 of a specific #.

4 - A154 cores w/ 2 keys (second key is missing from pic, but I have it)


3 - A137 cores w/ 3 keys


2 - A149 cores w/ 2 keys


1 - A148 core w/ 2 keys

Feel free to follow me or look at these ridiculous posts on my IG (@garagegraderacecar) or Facebook… I figured out how you kids killed the forums…  and i remembered my password! I’m back!
Back in the day… okay not that long ago I purchased this Integra from Jakes friend… put 40k miles on it (240k on the clock) and decided to make it my track car.
VIR Integra
 
Long story short… I blowed up the Integra. “Something” ended up in my oil pickup. This was after I swapped the trans to a GSR… after I built the motor because I popped the head gasket on track… after I purchased a used head that had every hole stripped… I might have felt defeated.
Blown Motor Oil Pickup
What came out of the oil pickup
bearings of doom
 
So you are blown up… you want to go play… you need a cage… what do you do? Find a new car! And by new car I mean someones (Chag Slaggs) well used sloppy seconds. But I have a history with this car (While in the Tech Shed with NASA MA, I DQed Chad twice for weight. One of the DQs cost him the regional championship)… so I jumped at the chance to trade a “safe queen” handgun and some cash for the shell… This is how I remember the car:
Civic in its prime

Car Prep Starts

Car Prep hot mess

Car Prep hot mess 2

Car Prep trunk

Car Prep super hot mess

Still a hot mess with Gussets

Gussets Installed

Stage one cleaning

Car Prep Mostly Clean

Civic cracked subframe

Rear Suspension Bling

ASR bling

Double Adjustable Dumpers

Building a new motor

The groupme chat decided we need to see how many different engine types MM has collected as a group. Join in on the fun. Lets catch em all.
Try to keep formatting consistent so it doesn't turn into more of a cluster than it already is.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1...edit#gid=0

This will be somewhat repetitive for the people in the chat, but let's get it all down in one place. Fair warning, I'm about to write a novel.

Backstory: I bought a 1999 F250 with the 7.3 Powerstroke from Manheim Fredericksburg a couple weeks ago. Did all the usual checks that can be done in an auction environment. Oil looked good, coolant looked good, blowby was acceptable, truck ran like a bat out of hell. Had a noticeable bit of rust in the bed support rails, but I bought this with the intention of driving it for a few months so I could sell the ragged out F150 I drive right now, then sell the truck at a profit and roll all the money into a newer truck. Plus, my job requires that I tow A LOT, so I've been wanting to give the diesel lifestyle a go. 



Auction day rolled around, I won the bid. $6545 out the door, almost exactly what Manheim stated this truck should sell for. I go to pick it up, slap the tag from the F150 on the back, and head on home. For all of about 20 miles, when it overheats. Checking the oil looks like a chocolate milkshake. Pulling the oil cap looks like the vape clouds at a Subaru meet. Drank the three gallons in the radiator into the oil and then overheated. At this point, I'm thinking head gaskets. Tow the truck home, and then drive it to the local diesel shop the next day. I know nothing about diesel at this point, so if I can cut someone a check and be done with it, I'll be happy. Cuts into the profit margin, but that's OK. Still a solid deal on the truck and now I know that's been addressed. Auction buys are a roll of the dice, but I've bought dozens of cars there and never had any issue bigger than an AC compressor. The truck I drive now came from there and has been flawless, all things considered.




Shop calls and insists it's the oil cooler. Charges an obscene amount of money to replace that, but whatever. It's done. They call me when it's done, mention that it had a cheap chinese cooler that looked new installed, but they still replaced it. Not sketchy at all, especially to the tune of $1500. Seems like someone already tried fixing the problem. But they insist it runs, and it's fixed!

Not.

Apparently as soon as they pulled out of the parking lot, it died. Like for good. They thought it needed a new $800 IDM. I thought they could shove it where the sun don't shine. Bought a reman unit off eBay for $100, installed it in their parking lot, and limped it home. Leaked 3 gallons of coolant in 5 miles from where they forgot to snug the water pump adapter back down. Really feeling like I got my money's worth on that one. Oh, and the tire truck backed into it when they were delivering tires to the shop. Lit. Owned it for less than a week and I've blown a motor and it's been in an accident.



So on the lift it goes. Crack the drain plug on the pan and a half gallon of coolant comes out.  At this point, it can be one of three things. Cavitated front cover, cracked block, or warped heads / head gasket. Front cover is fine, looked at it when the shop pulled it for the oil cooler. Now I'm looking into engine swaps, because I'm not dealing with pulling the heads just to find out the previous owner ran it at 50 PSI and split the block. Turns out the International T444E is the exact same block, and with a few minor changes, drops right into the 7.3 Superduty. Plus, they're readily available in the 100K mile range for $1500, which is half the price of a comparable PSD. Got mine with 114K miles, so should be good for a while longer.


So I get one from the local junkyard, and get ready to swap the oil pan, front cover, and turbo. Figure I'll take a long weekend, and knock it out. Check out that compressor for the air brakes.



Again, not. 

Motor comes out ok, a day of delay when the turbo wants to fight but nothing terrible. However, no one bothered to tell me that to pull the front cover, literally EVERYTHING ELSE has to come off the block. And of course, everything that can go wrong does. The kits I rent at advance don't have the right tools for anything this big. The epoxy International uses for everything could have saved the Titanic. It dumps quarts of oil from places that should not have oil. Diesel coolant additives really hurt your eyes. The list goes on, and the sign in my office becomes more and more relevant. On the bright side, I've learned a lot about how to look at these trucks for presale. Bonus picture of valve cover. Hella sludge, no?







I'm now on day... 5? of this swap, after anticipating it taking 3. Finally got both blocks stripped down today, swapped the pickup tubes, plenums, pan, and front cover over from the bad motor to the good bus engine. Sealed it all up as good as possible without following International's recommendation of flipping the motor, because I don't have an engine stand that can hold 1200 pounds. Tomorrow all the accessories go back over, starting with the high pressure oil pump that has already ruined one pair of shoes and used a bag of cat litter. Here's where we're at now, and what has to go back on the school bus block.





I'm currently in the hole on this for market value of the truck and 5 full days of hard manual labor. Win some, lose some I suppose. Was hoping to drive it for a few months and send it down the road before the rust got worse, but that may be changing now. Hate to put all this work and a low mileage motor in a truck that should run forever and then immediately sell it, but as soon as that rust becomes cosmetic the value will start dropping. Decisions decisions. 

Last time I posted something, I think someone said it was the shittiest car they'd ever seen. Let's see what we can accomplish this time.