08-28-2018, 10:49 PM
This will be somewhat repetitive for the people in the chat, but let's get it all down in one place. Fair warning, I'm about to write a novel.
Backstory: I bought a 1999 F250 with the 7.3 Powerstroke from Manheim Fredericksburg a couple weeks ago. Did all the usual checks that can be done in an auction environment. Oil looked good, coolant looked good, blowby was acceptable, truck ran like a bat out of hell. Had a noticeable bit of rust in the bed support rails, but I bought this with the intention of driving it for a few months so I could sell the ragged out F150 I drive right now, then sell the truck at a profit and roll all the money into a newer truck. Plus, my job requires that I tow A LOT, so I've been wanting to give the diesel lifestyle a go.
Auction day rolled around, I won the bid. $6545 out the door, almost exactly what Manheim stated this truck should sell for. I go to pick it up, slap the tag from the F150 on the back, and head on home. For all of about 20 miles, when it overheats. Checking the oil looks like a chocolate milkshake. Pulling the oil cap looks like the vape clouds at a Subaru meet. Drank the three gallons in the radiator into the oil and then overheated. At this point, I'm thinking head gaskets. Tow the truck home, and then drive it to the local diesel shop the next day. I know nothing about diesel at this point, so if I can cut someone a check and be done with it, I'll be happy. Cuts into the profit margin, but that's OK. Still a solid deal on the truck and now I know that's been addressed. Auction buys are a roll of the dice, but I've bought dozens of cars there and never had any issue bigger than an AC compressor. The truck I drive now came from there and has been flawless, all things considered.
Shop calls and insists it's the oil cooler. Charges an obscene amount of money to replace that, but whatever. It's done. They call me when it's done, mention that it had a cheap chinese cooler that looked new installed, but they still replaced it. Not sketchy at all, especially to the tune of $1500. Seems like someone already tried fixing the problem. But they insist it runs, and it's fixed!
Not.
Apparently as soon as they pulled out of the parking lot, it died. Like for good. They thought it needed a new $800 IDM. I thought they could shove it where the sun don't shine. Bought a reman unit off eBay for $100, installed it in their parking lot, and limped it home. Leaked 3 gallons of coolant in 5 miles from where they forgot to snug the water pump adapter back down. Really feeling like I got my money's worth on that one. Oh, and the tire truck backed into it when they were delivering tires to the shop. Lit. Owned it for less than a week and I've blown a motor and it's been in an accident.
So on the lift it goes. Crack the drain plug on the pan and a half gallon of coolant comes out. At this point, it can be one of three things. Cavitated front cover, cracked block, or warped heads / head gasket. Front cover is fine, looked at it when the shop pulled it for the oil cooler. Now I'm looking into engine swaps, because I'm not dealing with pulling the heads just to find out the previous owner ran it at 50 PSI and split the block. Turns out the International T444E is the exact same block, and with a few minor changes, drops right into the 7.3 Superduty. Plus, they're readily available in the 100K mile range for $1500, which is half the price of a comparable PSD. Got mine with 114K miles, so should be good for a while longer.
So I get one from the local junkyard, and get ready to swap the oil pan, front cover, and turbo. Figure I'll take a long weekend, and knock it out. Check out that compressor for the air brakes.
Again, not.
Motor comes out ok, a day of delay when the turbo wants to fight but nothing terrible. However, no one bothered to tell me that to pull the front cover, literally EVERYTHING ELSE has to come off the block. And of course, everything that can go wrong does. The kits I rent at advance don't have the right tools for anything this big. The epoxy International uses for everything could have saved the Titanic. It dumps quarts of oil from places that should not have oil. Diesel coolant additives really hurt your eyes. The list goes on, and the sign in my office becomes more and more relevant. On the bright side, I've learned a lot about how to look at these trucks for presale. Bonus picture of valve cover. Hella sludge, no?
I'm now on day... 5? of this swap, after anticipating it taking 3. Finally got both blocks stripped down today, swapped the pickup tubes, plenums, pan, and front cover over from the bad motor to the good bus engine. Sealed it all up as good as possible without following International's recommendation of flipping the motor, because I don't have an engine stand that can hold 1200 pounds. Tomorrow all the accessories go back over, starting with the high pressure oil pump that has already ruined one pair of shoes and used a bag of cat litter. Here's where we're at now, and what has to go back on the school bus block.
I'm currently in the hole on this for market value of the truck and 5 full days of hard manual labor. Win some, lose some I suppose. Was hoping to drive it for a few months and send it down the road before the rust got worse, but that may be changing now. Hate to put all this work and a low mileage motor in a truck that should run forever and then immediately sell it, but as soon as that rust becomes cosmetic the value will start dropping. Decisions decisions.
Last time I posted something, I think someone said it was the shittiest car they'd ever seen. Let's see what we can accomplish this time.
Backstory: I bought a 1999 F250 with the 7.3 Powerstroke from Manheim Fredericksburg a couple weeks ago. Did all the usual checks that can be done in an auction environment. Oil looked good, coolant looked good, blowby was acceptable, truck ran like a bat out of hell. Had a noticeable bit of rust in the bed support rails, but I bought this with the intention of driving it for a few months so I could sell the ragged out F150 I drive right now, then sell the truck at a profit and roll all the money into a newer truck. Plus, my job requires that I tow A LOT, so I've been wanting to give the diesel lifestyle a go.
Auction day rolled around, I won the bid. $6545 out the door, almost exactly what Manheim stated this truck should sell for. I go to pick it up, slap the tag from the F150 on the back, and head on home. For all of about 20 miles, when it overheats. Checking the oil looks like a chocolate milkshake. Pulling the oil cap looks like the vape clouds at a Subaru meet. Drank the three gallons in the radiator into the oil and then overheated. At this point, I'm thinking head gaskets. Tow the truck home, and then drive it to the local diesel shop the next day. I know nothing about diesel at this point, so if I can cut someone a check and be done with it, I'll be happy. Cuts into the profit margin, but that's OK. Still a solid deal on the truck and now I know that's been addressed. Auction buys are a roll of the dice, but I've bought dozens of cars there and never had any issue bigger than an AC compressor. The truck I drive now came from there and has been flawless, all things considered.
Shop calls and insists it's the oil cooler. Charges an obscene amount of money to replace that, but whatever. It's done. They call me when it's done, mention that it had a cheap chinese cooler that looked new installed, but they still replaced it. Not sketchy at all, especially to the tune of $1500. Seems like someone already tried fixing the problem. But they insist it runs, and it's fixed!
Not.
Apparently as soon as they pulled out of the parking lot, it died. Like for good. They thought it needed a new $800 IDM. I thought they could shove it where the sun don't shine. Bought a reman unit off eBay for $100, installed it in their parking lot, and limped it home. Leaked 3 gallons of coolant in 5 miles from where they forgot to snug the water pump adapter back down. Really feeling like I got my money's worth on that one. Oh, and the tire truck backed into it when they were delivering tires to the shop. Lit. Owned it for less than a week and I've blown a motor and it's been in an accident.
So on the lift it goes. Crack the drain plug on the pan and a half gallon of coolant comes out. At this point, it can be one of three things. Cavitated front cover, cracked block, or warped heads / head gasket. Front cover is fine, looked at it when the shop pulled it for the oil cooler. Now I'm looking into engine swaps, because I'm not dealing with pulling the heads just to find out the previous owner ran it at 50 PSI and split the block. Turns out the International T444E is the exact same block, and with a few minor changes, drops right into the 7.3 Superduty. Plus, they're readily available in the 100K mile range for $1500, which is half the price of a comparable PSD. Got mine with 114K miles, so should be good for a while longer.
So I get one from the local junkyard, and get ready to swap the oil pan, front cover, and turbo. Figure I'll take a long weekend, and knock it out. Check out that compressor for the air brakes.
Again, not.
Motor comes out ok, a day of delay when the turbo wants to fight but nothing terrible. However, no one bothered to tell me that to pull the front cover, literally EVERYTHING ELSE has to come off the block. And of course, everything that can go wrong does. The kits I rent at advance don't have the right tools for anything this big. The epoxy International uses for everything could have saved the Titanic. It dumps quarts of oil from places that should not have oil. Diesel coolant additives really hurt your eyes. The list goes on, and the sign in my office becomes more and more relevant. On the bright side, I've learned a lot about how to look at these trucks for presale. Bonus picture of valve cover. Hella sludge, no?
I'm now on day... 5? of this swap, after anticipating it taking 3. Finally got both blocks stripped down today, swapped the pickup tubes, plenums, pan, and front cover over from the bad motor to the good bus engine. Sealed it all up as good as possible without following International's recommendation of flipping the motor, because I don't have an engine stand that can hold 1200 pounds. Tomorrow all the accessories go back over, starting with the high pressure oil pump that has already ruined one pair of shoes and used a bag of cat litter. Here's where we're at now, and what has to go back on the school bus block.
I'm currently in the hole on this for market value of the truck and 5 full days of hard manual labor. Win some, lose some I suppose. Was hoping to drive it for a few months and send it down the road before the rust got worse, but that may be changing now. Hate to put all this work and a low mileage motor in a truck that should run forever and then immediately sell it, but as soon as that rust becomes cosmetic the value will start dropping. Decisions decisions.
Last time I posted something, I think someone said it was the shittiest car they'd ever seen. Let's see what we can accomplish this time.
Current:
2005 Ford F-150
2007 Yamaha R6
Past:
2014 Yamaha Bolt
2005 Corvette
2001 Miata
1997 Miata
1996 Miata
1994 M-Edition Miata
2014 Ford Mustang
1995 Chevrolet Corvette
2003 Ford Ranger
2005 Ford F-150
2007 Yamaha R6
Past:
2014 Yamaha Bolt
2005 Corvette
2001 Miata
1997 Miata
1996 Miata
1994 M-Edition Miata
2014 Ford Mustang
1995 Chevrolet Corvette
2003 Ford Ranger