Well, I forgot that OME claims their leaves eliminate the need for a bump stop because of its two overload springs which never let the leaves drop that far, so I'm not going to worry about it.
And for the skids and such, I'm only worried about them because knocking a hole in my transfer case is WAY more expensive than some $400 skids.
I think the plan is to save for the Miata and to be extra careful when I wheel. It'll still be in my mind. If I find a killer deal on any item in my list, the Miata can wait.
Senor_Taylor Wrote:And for the skids and such, I'm only worried about them because knocking a hole in my transfer case is WAY more expensive than some $400 skids.
Truth. Really take your time wheeling. I have no idea how you managed to knock that hole in your OEM skid. :dunno:
Maybe Jeep and Yota kids should try and play nice with a "how to spot your vehicle day" 
Yeah, I know how to spot, but I'm sure there's a ton more to learn.
I knocked the hole in it running though some deep water, I'm pretty sure. There was a rock hiding in it. I just so happened to go to Flagpole on a day where it decided to pour rain for 12 hours. I'd really love to wheel with you and Colton some time. Good 'ole MM Offroad team.
Bumpstop anyway, MMMMmmmmmmmkaaaayyy? Don't listen to OME on that bullshit.
Cabell is right. What I've lost in up travel, I've more than made up in down travel. Now days I'm actually about 3" up, 7" down in the front. Shock mount placement and bumpstops are key in making a good working and flexy suspension. My front upper shock mounts are the only stock location mounts I have left. Bumpstops MAKE your suspension work, not just keep tires out of fenders.
And Taylor, we can make you skids when you come back in the fall. "Wheeling carefully" is not an option. Well, not for me anyways.
Sounds like a plan on the skids!
And I'm not really looking to modify any shock mounts if possible. For now, I'm happy with my travel. I'll look into bumpstops.
ibjeepin95 Wrote:And Taylor, we can make you skids when you come back in the fall. "Wheeling carefully" is not an option. Well, not for me anyways.
I'm down to help. Also... some spots you get into on the trail, there is a fine line between wheeling carefully and using full throttle, hoping you dont break something lol
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Kaan Wrote:ibjeepin95 Wrote:And Taylor, we can make you skids when you come back in the fall. "Wheeling carefully" is not an option. Well, not for me anyways.
I'm down to help. Also... some spots you get into on the trail, there is a fine line between wheeling carefully and using full throttle, hoping you dont break something lol
Ibj goes for broke...n
Hah
When in doubt, skinny pedal out.
Senor_Taylor Wrote:Sounds like a plan on the skids!
And I'm not really looking to modify any shock mounts if possible. For now, I'm happy with my travel. I'll look into bumpstops.
Get crafty with bumpstops. You can use them from other vehicles, make your own plates, etc. I use hockey pucks on the axle end for bump stops!
V1GiLaNtE Wrote:Kaan Wrote:ibjeepin95 Wrote:And Taylor, we can make you skids when you come back in the fall. "Wheeling carefully" is not an option. Well, not for me anyways.
I'm down to help. Also... some spots you get into on the trail, there is a fine line between wheeling carefully and using full throttle, hoping you dont break something lol
Ibj goes for broke...n
Hah
Senor_Taylor Wrote:When in doubt, skinny pedal out.
Sometimes :lol:
It can break stuff drivin' like a fool, ask me how I know! Learning your vehicle can help you control this. I know when tolet of (usually) before stuff breaks.
ibjeepin95 Wrote:Senor_Taylor Wrote:When in doubt, skinny pedal out.
Sometimes :lol:
It can break stuff drivin' like a fool, ask me how I know! Learning your vehicle can help you control this. I know when tolet of (usually) before stuff breaks.
Except for that very gruesome XJ torture video you posted slinging mud at big boys.. :bootyshake:
Today, I have vowed that I will never ever ever ever work on an Automatic transmission again. Simple drain and fill? Sure. 4 hours crawling in a gravel driveway to undo 10000000 bolts, beat the drain pan to death to get the gasket to free. Spray and scrub the inside of the pan, wash the 4 magnets.... PAINSTAKINGLY scrap that crappy Toyota liquid gasket off of the pan and apply new (Only 20 freaking dollars a tube...). Take old filter out and clean it, then put it back on, only to shear 1 bolt and have 2 more cross thread.
I was told my tranny would only drain 2-3 quarts, but it puked close to 6. Good thing I bought extra. It shifts so silky smooth now, but I'm also missing 3 bolts and some aren't torqued all the way out of fear of them snapping. I'm having a shop redo to bolts soon, but if it doesn't leak, I'll ride out my crappy job until it needs it again.
Senor_Taylor Wrote:only to shear 1 bolt and have 2 more cross thread.
![[Image: -cringe-GIF.gif]](http://gifsec.com/wp-content/uploads/GIF/2014/03/-cringe-GIF.gif)
2013 Honda Fit, 1991 Mazda Miata, Princess Blanca, Mystery, 1993 Volvo 940 - sold, 2003 Mazda Protoge5 - carmax'd, 1996 BMW 328is - sold, 1996 Honda Accord - sold
Yeah. It's not leaking, Looks like I get to pay some money to have someone drill out the bolt and fix all the others. I don't care. I'm not messing with it again. I hate automatics.
Senor_Taylor Wrote:only to shear 1 bolt and have 2 more cross thread.
Been there, done that. My ex has an E46 330i and we did the cooling system overhaul on it. Well, the torque spec for the nuts holding the water pump to the studs coming out of the block is something like 8 inch-lbs. Yours truly snapped TWO studs in half.
Minor freakout, managed to thread the studs out and discover that some other bolt on the car (power steering pump?) was the right size/thread pitch. Bought four of those and used 'em instead.
I know the pain and it sucks. Carry on :thumbup:
Now:
'16 Ram 1500 | '97 BMW M3 | Some Press Loan
Then:
87 BMW 325e | 91 BMW 535i | 96 BMW 328i | 95 BMW 325i | 95 Mazda Miata | 13 Focus ST | 09 BMW 128i | 00 Pontiac Firebird | 05 Yukon Denali | 96 BMW 328iC | 11 Ford F-150 | 06 BMW M3 | 10 Range Rover SC | '03 Ford Ranger | '18 Ford F-150 | '01 BMW X5 | '98 Volvo S70 T5M
Jake Wrote:Senor_Taylor Wrote:only to shear 1 bolt and have 2 more cross thread.
Been there, done that. My ex has an E46 330i and we did the cooling system overhaul on it. Well, the torque spec for the nuts holding the water pump to the studs coming out of the block is something like 8 inch-lbs. Yours truly snapped TWO studs in half.
Minor freakout, managed to thread the studs out and discover that some other bolt on the car (power steering pump?) was the right size/thread pitch. Bought four of those and used 'em instead.
I know the pain and it sucks. Carry on :thumbup:
That just has to be one of those "Da FUQ" moments where you're utterly confused and can't believe it just happened.. but TWICE? :vomit:
It had been a long day...
Now:
'16 Ram 1500 | '97 BMW M3 | Some Press Loan
Then:
87 BMW 325e | 91 BMW 535i | 96 BMW 328i | 95 BMW 325i | 95 Mazda Miata | 13 Focus ST | 09 BMW 128i | 00 Pontiac Firebird | 05 Yukon Denali | 96 BMW 328iC | 11 Ford F-150 | 06 BMW M3 | 10 Range Rover SC | '03 Ford Ranger | '18 Ford F-150 | '01 BMW X5 | '98 Volvo S70 T5M
Got some replacement bolts, threaded in the ones I could. Now I'm only missing 2 bolts. One is snapped off and the other doesn't want to thread correctly. Drove 30 minutes away and back and there's no leakage. I think we're okay.
Well, my truck is now pissing ATF everywhere I go. Looks like I did a pretty crappy job.
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