My car seemed to eat wires every 10-15k. It's a relatively cheap and easy replacement, if nothing else but to give you peace of mind that they're good.
Now:
'16 Ram 1500 | '97 BMW M3 | Some Press Loan
Then:
87 BMW 325e | 91 BMW 535i | 96 BMW 328i | 95 BMW 325i | 95 Mazda Miata | 13 Focus ST | 09 BMW 128i | 00 Pontiac Firebird | 05 Yukon Denali | 96 BMW 328iC | 11 Ford F-150 | 06 BMW M3 | 10 Range Rover SC | '03 Ford Ranger | '18 Ford F-150 | '01 BMW X5 | '98 Volvo S70 T5M
Another day, another $100 down the drain.
Today I replaced the fuel filter and filled the tank with injector cleaner again, then set the idle to 3000 and filled the ISCV multiple times with seafoam. Ran it, let it suck, then let it run it all out. I checked the injectors while it was running and each one is clicking perfectly on time. Then I put on brand new NGK blue plug wires and it still idles rough. So frustrating.
Take off the intake tube, shove a 5th of liquor into it and bolt it down, disconnect and cap any intake breather ports so you don't pressurize your crankcase, open your oil cap, the pull a vacuum line and pressurize it to 10psi or so and listen for leaks.
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.
2012 Ford Mustang
1995 BMW 540i/A
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
So you're saying to shove something in the intake tube on the throttle body side, then cap off any lines going to the crank case and put an air hose in a hose and blow it in there? I can't really picture exactly how to do that.
Senor_Taylor Wrote:So you're saying to shove something in the intake tube on the throttle body side, then cap off any lines going to the crank case and put an air hose in a hose and blow it in there? I can't really picture exactly how to do that. [youtube]9CPqbaSgcok[/youtube]
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rherold9 Wrote:Senor_Taylor Wrote:So you're saying to shove something in the intake tube on the throttle body side, then cap off any lines going to the crank case and put an air hose in a hose and blow it in there? I can't really picture exactly how to do that. [youtube]9CPqbaSgcok[/youtube]
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You must have missed when I used three cans of spray doing this and found nothing.
That would be correct
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Pete and I devised a good way to find a vacuum leak. Take off your intake, hook up a hose to a fog machine, duct tape the end to the fog machine tight and same to the intake tube. Look for places where the fog is leaking out in the engine bay.
Ps. don't use a shopvac tube, they melt, ask me how I know. :lol:
Previous vehicles:
2006 Toyota Tacoma
2011 Jeep Patriot
1998 Land Rover Discovery
1995 Land Rover Discovery
1995 BMW M3
1995 Mazda Miata
2000 Jeep Cherokee
1989 BMW 325is
2004 Subaru Forester XT
1984 BMW 325e
2003 Subaru WRX
2004 Honda Civic SI
2015 Scion TC
2000 Ford Expedition
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have you done a compression or leakdown test on the engine?
1994 Ford Ranger
2004 Honda S2000
2007 BMW X3
Maengelito Wrote:have you done a compression or leakdown test on the engine?
Oh boy.. That's one of those things you are scared to know the results.
Maengelito Wrote:have you done a compression or leakdown test on the engine? Considering how well it ran when Paul I took it at summit to go watch drifting (it was actually idling PERFECTLY fine) I feel like this isn't necessary... Yet.
My say: just keep driving it. My car had an idle that was all over the place when I got it first and now its fine. Until it gives you more obvious signs and symptoms to work with I feel like there isn't much else to do. Get it smoke tested tho. When I think about how the E36 ran when I had some hoses missing it reminds of the same behavior. You just gotta find it. There's probably a reason why have so many new hoses. The dealer (or maybe PO) was maybe trying to hunt down the same issue and couldn't find it? IDK.
2013 Honda Fit, 1991 Mazda Miata, Princess Blanca, Mystery, 1993 Volvo 940 - sold, 2003 Mazda Protoge5 - carmax'd, 1996 BMW 328is - sold, 1996 Honda Accord - sold
Senor_Taylor Wrote:I guess I forgot how noisy Miata motors, but it does make me worry with the lifter noises and such.
Add 1/2 quart of Castrol DEX/Merc with each oil change, it'll take care of the lifters. When they start making noise again, it's time to change the oil
Senor_Taylor Wrote:They all look brand new except a little white on them. Possibly a little lean? I'm thinking maybe the PO did the common Miata mod where you advance the timing a few degrees and run premium to move the power band down.
Looks like the car has been run at high RPM's a lot. From the factory Miata's get lean at high RPM's. OR alternatively, see below.....
Senor_Taylor Wrote:Also conditions the top with 303 tonneau cleaner which is apparently the best for miata tops. It feels much more supple and is a much nicer shade of tan.
Just tried that myself on my cloth top, 303 is amazing.
Jake Wrote:My car seemed to eat wires every 10-15k. It's a relatively cheap and easy replacement, if nothing else but to give you peace of mind that they're good.
Replacing plugs and wires should be step 1 for any misfire/electrical/driveability issue on a Miata.
Senor_Taylor Wrote:I found this.
![[Image: TsMkZre.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/TsMkZre.jpg)
Do not get under the car with the jackstand that close to the rot. That looks structural.
Senor_Taylor Wrote:Okay, definitely not cammed. When the AC is on it idles at 800 RPM much better, so I'll clean the ISCV really well once I get back from Danville tomorrow or whenever I get time.
To me (keep in mind I'm only diagnosing over the internet and haven't put hands on the car.....) you are looking in the wrong places. That and cleaning the ISCV never works on a Miata.....
Have you tried unplugging the ISCV completely? If not, try it. On start up you will need to get it a little gas then it should go to a set 1200 rpm idle and be fine. At that point see if you are having the misfire and report back.
Left field answer. Have you checked the timing or taken the valve cover off to look at the belt and cam gears? It is possible that the timing belt was put on incorrectly and is causing your idle issue which would explain why your car "feels" faster, and is running lean. If whoever did the replacement caused the issue and couldn't figure out how to fix it, that could explain how the car ended up at a shady car dealership for so cheap after having it replaced.
I can probably hook you up with a free smoke test if you want to drive it to broadway. They have a smoke tester at my grandads dealership.
2015 VW GTI | 2007 4Runner Sport
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2010 Nissan 370z | 2003 BMW M3
2005 Subaru WRX | 2010 BMW 135i | 1999 BMW M3
2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 | 2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX SE
1995 Pontiac Firebird Formula | 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX | 1996 Pontiac Firebird
Scott Wrote:Add 1/2 quart of Castrol DEX/Merc with each oil change, it'll take care of the lifters. When they start making noise again, it's time to change the oil
Never heard this. Okay.
Scott Wrote:Replacing plugs and wires should be step 1 for any misfire/electrical/driveability issue on a Miata.
I didn't really want to replace the plugs since they look brand new, but they might be off brand like the plug wires were, so I'll do that first when I get back form the beach in a week. I'm starting to run out of money.
Scott Wrote:Do not get under the car with the jackstand that close to the rot. That looks structural.
I don't plan to. I've never seen a miata rust so close to the jack point and not on the actual rocker farther up. Heart breaker. I plan to salvage as much as possible.
Scott Wrote:Have you tried unplugging the ISCV completely? If not, try it. On start up you will need to get it a little gas then it should go to a set 1200 rpm idle and be fine. At that point see if you are having the misfire and report back.
I'll do that whenever the rain stops and report back.
Scott Wrote:Left field answer. Have you checked the timing or taken the valve cover off to look at the belt and cam gears? It is possible that the timing belt was put on incorrectly and is causing your idle issue which would explain why your car "feels" faster, and is running lean. If whoever did the replacement caused the issue and couldn't figure out how to fix it, that could explain how the car ended up at a shady car dealership for so cheap after having it replaced.
Whenever my sister's bf gets time, he'll bring over his timing light and I'll check the ignition timing. The problem is I can't get to the bolt that aligns the crank sensor. I have no clue how to get to it and not pull the valve cover. I really want to check the timing belt as a last resort, but it seems more and more likely every day. Is there a way to adjust it with just the valve cover off, or do I need to beak down everything?
RawrImAMonster Wrote:I can probably hook you up with a free smoke test if you want to drive it to broadway. They have a smoke tester at my grandads dealership.
I may take you up on this whenever i get back to school.
Taking off the valve cover isn't that bad man. It's like 8 bolts and lift. Rubber mallet and some light taps if it's stuck.
BE BRAVE (and gentle)
2013 Honda Fit, 1991 Mazda Miata, Princess Blanca, Mystery, 1993 Volvo 940 - sold, 2003 Mazda Protoge5 - carmax'd, 1996 BMW 328is - sold, 1996 Honda Accord - sold
Senor_Taylor Wrote:Scott Wrote:Add 1/2 quart of Castrol DEX/Merc with each oil change, it'll take care of the lifters. When they start making noise again, it's time to change the oil
Never heard this. Okay.
I had a '94 that sounded and adding this fixed the problem (keep in mind you put in 1/2 quart less of your regular oil) I was recommended to do this buy a local engine builder (everything from British car, Porsche's and Ferrari's), seems old Chevy V8's would tick also.
Senor_Taylor Wrote:I didn't really want to replace the plugs since they look brand new, but they might be off brand like the plug wires were, so I'll do that first when I get back form the beach in a week. I'm starting to run out of money.
Always replace both together, they are like $2 each. Wires can go in as little as 15k, if not less, and still look brand new. Always use the blue NKG wires. .
Senor_Taylor Wrote:The problem is I can't get to the bolt that aligns the crank sensor. I have no clue how to get to it and not pull the valve cover. I really want to check the timing belt as a last resort, but it seems more and more likely every day. Is there a way to adjust it with just the valve cover off, or do I need to beak down everything?
If memory serves (and it's a Miata so there is only like 4 different bolt sizes needed to take the whole car apart) a 12mm open ended wrench works. Also remove the 3 bolts holding the coil pack (10mm I think) and move it over to give yourself some room.
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