That's why I want to stick with OEM carb as much as possible. Even with a rebuild kit.
rebuild the carb you have.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
(07-25-2018, 11:35 AM).RJ Wrote: rebuild the carb you have.
Yea. I'm also going to double check the slide. Apparently there is a notch that has to line up with the idle adjustment screw. Not sure I did that correctly.
(07-25-2018, 11:11 AM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: That's why I want to stick with OEM carb as much as possible. Even with a rebuild kit.
Oh I thought it was an OEM replacement, which seemed absurdly cheap but w/e. What's an oem carb cost?
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
This little guy has been a great tool for cleaning carbs. Fill it with purple power or carb clener and let run it for several cycles:
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-u...63256.html
http://www.85xr.com
1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
07-25-2018, 09:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-25-2018, 09:32 PM by V1GiLaNtE.)
So it is 100% a fuel delivery issue from the carb. SHE LIVES!! Grabbed some starter fluid from the parts store and gave it a whirl. Took a couple of kicks, but she fired right up in all of her 2-stroke glory! I will pull the carb this weekend, soak in carb cleaner, make sure I properly align the slide, and double check the float height (digital caliper on the way). All else fails I'll just rebuild it for $30. You can hear my enthusiasm in the video, we're so close with this 20+ year old little bike!
When soaking the gas tank in apple cider vinegar I developed a small pin hole leak which is a bummer. However, on inspection of the tank the ACV is doing some serious work on the rust. Once the JB weld cures ( don't worry I got the gas tank specific one and researched) I'm going to give it another soak.
(07-25-2018, 03:46 PM)CaptainHenreh Wrote: (07-25-2018, 11:11 AM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: That's why I want to stick with OEM carb as much as possible. Even with a rebuild kit.
Oh I thought it was an OEM replacement, which seemed absurdly cheap but w/e. What's an oem carb cost?
No idea, you can find em all over eBay but they ain't new. That's for damn sure.
rebuild the carb now - anything else will cause issues down the road. I can lend a hand if you need, its easy.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
07-26-2018, 09:55 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-26-2018, 09:58 AM by V1GiLaNtE.)
(07-26-2018, 08:40 AM).RJ Wrote: rebuild the carb now - anything else will cause issues down the road. I can lend a hand if you need, its easy.
Looking at the carb rebuild kit, it looks stupid easy for this Makuni carb. Went ahead and ordered one with new floats. You willing to drive down to Richmond??
![[Image: s-l640.jpg]](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VugAAOSwq~tZOzdo/s-l640.jpg)
(07-26-2018, 09:55 AM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: Looking at the carb rebuild kit, it looks stupid easy for this Makuni carb. Went ahead and ordered one with new floats. You willing to drive down to Richmond??
Let's just work together and get it done. I'm sure we can figure it out lol
(07-26-2018, 10:13 AM)rherold9 Wrote: (07-26-2018, 09:55 AM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: Looking at the carb rebuild kit, it looks stupid easy for this Makuni carb. Went ahead and ordered one with new floats. You willing to drive down to Richmond??
Let's just work together and get it done. I'm sure we can figure it out lol
It should be pretty easy. Just replace old part with new part one at a time and done.
if the kit includes new jets, then yes, its as simple as diassemble/reassemble. make sure everything is clean, clean, clean. dont remove anything without replacing it. take photos as you go, there are lots of small pieces.
i need to get down to richmond sometime soon, though.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
07-28-2018, 03:26 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-28-2018, 06:35 PM by V1GiLaNtE.)
Pulled the plug today and checked for compression. Bike pulled a solid 120psi so that is another thing we can rule out with certainty. Carb rebuild kit will be here Monday. Also got the gas tank about as good as I can. Currently ghetto airing out. Big rust is gone, but definitely has pitting. Going to see about a honda XL125 gas tank tomorrow to see if it could be used as a replacement/backup.
![[Image: ypZRw2S.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/ypZRw2S.jpg)
![[Image: 9lhDBD8.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/9lhDBD8.jpg)
07-31-2018, 02:18 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-31-2018, 02:20 PM by V1GiLaNtE.)
Looking for some design thoughts/critiques. I wanted to do a "scrambleresque" update to this little bike. Nothing crazy, but started thinking about some seat designs. Below is some general thoughts.
A) Just threwon a piece of sheet metal (the one slated for the luggage rack) to get an idea of where the lines of the bike would be. I'm thinking if I cut the rise in the back and add a loop and a fender that will balance out the proportions.
![[Image: DqfBSWj.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/DqfBSWj.jpg)
B) I added a "fender" as well as raised the gas tank about 1.25" which I personally think helps the lines of the bike flow better as they become parallel to the ground. The fender adds proportionality to the rear. Above it looks super front heavy. Maybe chopping the front fender some may help balance it out. Before, the gas tank kinda slopes downward. I noticed when raising the tank the handlebars hit at full lock so some sort of riser would be necessary.
![[Image: XHwkyb1.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/XHwkyb1.jpg)
Anywho, just some thoughts.
It looks like your missing the OEM rear fender? I think it needs something out there to balance the look of the front fender. Not to mention you will probably get water/mud everywhere without something back there.
2019 Accord Sport 2.0 A/T
2012 Civic Si - Sold
07-31-2018, 03:31 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-31-2018, 03:31 PM by V1GiLaNtE.)
(07-31-2018, 03:06 PM)JPolen01 Wrote: It looks like your missing the OEM rear fender? I think it needs something out there to balance the look of the front fender. Not to mention you will probably get water/mud everywhere without something back there.
Yup. Rear fender is definitely gone. Will probably source some "Universal" fender to fit in there. The cardboard "fender" I slapped back there was a mockup.
07-31-2018, 09:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-31-2018, 09:58 PM by V1GiLaNtE.)
I'm stumped. Rebuilt the carb with the kit. The only component that didn't fit was the idle screw which was weird. Got the carb on the bike with aux tank. Noticed that the overflow lines were leaking fuel. Ok, that's a good sign we now have fuel in the carb. Kicked and kicked and kicked. Nothing. Tried some different combos on old float, new float, old float needle, new float needle. Jets are completely clean and can move carb cleaner/air through all the inlets passages. Every time I disassemble the carb the bowl is full of fuel.
Can't even get it going with starter fluid now. Checked the plug and it is still dry as a bone. I have spark, I have good compression, fuel in the carb.. What gives? Is it a vacuum issue?
As a note I was only trying to start with just the air intake elbow on. Not full on air filter. is that necessary?
Weak spark? Try a new plug.
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.
2012 Ford Mustang
1995 BMW 540i/A
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
If there is fuel coming out of the overflow tube, your float isnt moving or your float needle is stuck and not closing.... and there is likely fuel pouring into the cylinder and flooding it. Take the plug out, kick the motor over and let it dry.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
08-01-2018, 08:44 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-01-2018, 08:51 AM by V1GiLaNtE.)
(08-01-2018, 07:10 AM)ViPER1313 Wrote: Weak spark? Try a new plug.
Yea, that was my possible thought even though it is new. Going to grab a few of them today.
(08-01-2018, 08:30 AM).RJ Wrote: If there is fuel coming out of the overflow tube, your float isnt moving or your float needle is stuck and not closing.... and there is likely fuel pouring into the cylinder and flooding it. Take the plug out, kick the motor over and let it dry.
There was fuel coming out. Once I went back to the original float/float needle that issue stopped. Upon disassembly there is fuel in the bowl with the old float setup. That tells me I'm ok with the float assembly, but fuel is not getting into the cylinder somehow.
One other thing I noticed. Small intermittent oil leak at the kickstarter. Is it possible that is allowing air in/loss of compression or is it just an oil leak?
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