Project Hatch

Evan · 08-03-2011, 12:14 PM

JustinG Wrote:
Mike Wrote:compression test (180-160-170-180)

Last compression test was done in 06.

I'll probably do a compression test on my own, just need to get the kit from my dad, thanks for reminding me. I doubt its far off from that, considering Mikey made it to the track/drove the car maybe once since then. Regardless of results, im driving it til it pops. Then LS7 swap.

oh, I figured you did one before buying.

Mikey always complained how his engine was down on power , low compression, and about to blow as an excuse for being slow on track. I want to see proof he is full of shit Tongue

:bootyshake:

**JustinG** · 08-03-2011, 12:40 PM

Evan Wrote:
JustinG Wrote:
Mike Wrote:compression test (180-160-170-180)

Last compression test was done in 06.

I'll probably do a compression test on my own, just need to get the kit from my dad, thanks for reminding me. I doubt its far off from that, considering Mikey made it to the track/drove the car maybe once since then. Regardless of results, im driving it til it pops. Then LS7 swap.
oh, I figured you did one before buying.

Mikey always complained how his engine was down on power , low compression, and about to blow as an excuse for being slow on track. I want to see proof he is full of shit :bootyshake:

I dont see how it could be down on power, when he made 125hp on a dyno, and its supposed to make 142crank.

15% drivetrain loss would put him at 123hp. 2hp gain from the whale penis and exhaust.

JPolen01 · 08-04-2011, 09:49 AM

Valve cover looks sick! Nice job/writeup.

**JustinG** · 08-05-2011, 01:47 PM

Installed the VC...Now the ricer in me wants different colored plug wires, :roll:

[Image: 2011-08-05_10-38-44_77.jpg]

So got around to finishing up the passenger side GC install. I gave up on removing the Front LCA, I don't have the front sway yet anyway. I pryed, beat on, etc, etc and the stupid ball joint would not separate from the LCA. I was able to get the GC installed.

I have the coilovers setup about an inch from the top of the sleeve.
[Image: 2011-08-05_10-34-27_776.jpg]

Passenger side is about 1in taller than the Driver side, which still has the Sportlines installed.
Rear
[Image: 2011-08-05_10-34-41_279.jpg]

Front

Now time to throw on the ASR subframe brace and the Swaybar. First i would like to say this is a very high quality piece, I got an insane deal on this thing, but I definitely think its worth the money to buy new.
[Image: 2011-08-05_11-18-23_497.jpg]

First loosen, do not remove the bolt holding the LCA to the rear hub. and then remove the bolt holding in the shock. Conveniently all are 14mm.
[Image: 2011-08-05_11-11-46_766.jpg]

Then you have to remove the bolt connecting the LCA to the subframe. This car already has the function7 LCAs (thanks mikey). The three holes allow you to adjust the mounting point of the sway bar to the LCA.
[Image: 2011-08-05_11-11-59_587.jpg]

Bolts removed, LCA drops down. Need to tap it with a rubber mallet, NOT A BFH, since they are aluminum.
[Image: 2011-08-05_11-13-43_893.jpg]

Now most people said to do this next step with the Brace held up in place and the LCAs reattached. Then you have no F-ing room. So I didn't do that. Installing the back bracketry with the provided hardware.
[Image: 2011-08-05_11-40-44_810.jpg]

Brace held on by the previouslt mentioned bracket.
[Image: 2011-08-05_11-41-06_891.jpg]

Bushings lubed and new ITR 22mm sway bolted up. Depending on how the car reacts with the 24mm front sway, I may move up to a 32mm rear sway :twisted:
[Image: 2011-08-05_11-58-22_401.jpg]

All torqued up. Endlinks are not bolted on, because I need to find the right hardware.
[Image: 2011-08-05_12-31-15_179.jpg]

ALL DONE!!!!!!!!!

Everything on the rear of the car should be done, aside from attaching the and links. Now all the work needs to happen up front.

STUFF TO DO:
Install Driver Front coilover
Install Front sway
Install Front LCAs,
Install header
Install intake manifold
Adjust the driver seat a couple holes back, for more leg room
Replace Oil Pan Gasket
Install Oil filter Sandwich
Install Oil Pressure/Temp Gauges (DJ!!!!!!!!!!!)
Change Oil
INSPECTION!!!!!!!
Fab up a better Top radiator mount, may incorporate a top cooling plate into this
Maybe Radiator Ducting?

ScottyB · 08-05-2011, 02:03 PM

holy crap a 32mm rear sway? just swap in solid metal sleeves in place of the springs :lol:

Kaan · 08-05-2011, 02:15 PM

lower the car 1.5 inches all the way around? thats not on your list!

**JustinG** · 08-05-2011, 02:18 PM

I think I might max out the coilovers to see how low I can get it Smile

Kaan · 08-05-2011, 02:34 PM

you dont haev to go that far... but the pass. side looks like its at stock height. Smile

**xvxax** · 08-05-2011, 04:13 PM

This project delivers. Keep it up my man. See ya at Summit fall finale?

V1GiLaNtE · 08-05-2011, 04:20 PM

JustinG Wrote:I

All torqued up. Endlinks are not bolted on, because I need to find the right hardware.

Everything looks awesome and the VC turned out tight y0!

OT but WTF is up with the hatch in this pic? It looks like it folds down like a truck tail-gate.. Did they always do this????

**JustinG** · 08-05-2011, 05:03 PM

Yes it does

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Kaan · 08-05-2011, 05:20 PM

EGs fold down like that...

V1GiLaNtE · 08-05-2011, 07:47 PM

No shit.... You learn something new everyday..

.RJ · 08-05-2011, 08:01 PM

Load the suspension before you torque any bolts - i.e. put hte LCA's on jackstands.

What are you using to separate the balljoints? There is a tool that makes this easy.

**JustinG** · 08-05-2011, 10:04 PM

Good to know, I knew not to torque the endlinks. Didnt know about the endlinks.

To try and separate the ballpoint, ive tried one of those forks, I think its intended for tie rods, not the larger balljoints.

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.RJ · 08-05-2011, 10:32 PM

Dont use the forks, go to advance auto and look for a tool thats like a metal "U" with a bolt through the middle. I think maybe its called a pitman arm puller, but it should be fairly small. The "U" hooks around the LCA and the bolt through the middle forces the ball joint out. Loosen the balljoint nut just so that the torque is off of it, but leave it on, and then use the tool. Easy.

CaptainHenreh · 08-06-2011, 07:44 AM

.RJ Wrote:Dont use the forks, go to advance auto and look for a tool thats like a metal "U" with a bolt through the middle. I think maybe its called a pitman arm puller, but it should be fairly small. The "U" hooks around the LCA and the bolt through the middle forces the ball joint out. Loosen the balljoint nut just so that the torque is off of it, but leave it on, and then use the tool. Easy.

+1 Pickle forks are for n00bs, or emergencies.

Kaan · 08-06-2011, 08:18 AM

make sure you get a "small" one... the one at the average autozone was too large for the crx...

**Mike** · 08-09-2011, 11:28 PM

Evan Wrote:Mikey always complained how his engine was down on power

:?:

**Mike** · 08-09-2011, 11:31 PM

Kaan Wrote:make sure you get a "small" one... the one at the average autozone was too large for the crx...

and be extra careful to not destroy the dust boots. it's far too easy to do with old ones, but those are pretty fresh so they will resist a little idiocy, but not much.

:thumbup: it all.

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