Really? Another Miata thread....

[rherold9]

been busy!  looks like a solid list.  what kind of all seasons are on it now?

Some craptastic Yokohama AVID ENVigor. It'll make for some fun.

I don't want to go out there on 245 "R-Comps" and not know how the car reacts/what the car does at the tires limit. Would rather run a track attack or two with maybe a track cross and learn.

That's a healthy list, congrats on the progress - those BF roll bars are so hawt.   Looking forward to the pics!

Well I was going to wait but here is some crappy pics for now as I write.

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All started with me bribing Justin to come over and started off with some simpler stuff. He admitted he was a little bored since the Power Wheels project was mostly done. He also says he enjoys destroying others people's things. Perfect candidate for some help I'd say. We got it up in the air and started doing the brakes. 

This was the first time doing the brakes on this thing so we worked slow to be careful. I worked the front, Justin worked the back. We put the pads in and did the stainless lines. 


On the second side Justin noticed some weird pad wear.. 



.... wut.

Well, we check both sides and sure enough both had worn similarly weird. We then looked at the back of the rotors and found out why. Rust, rust, and more rust. Whoever did the brake pads last didn't resurface or replace the rotors. I have no idea how there was so much rust. More on that later. But, for now we just kept the new pads on while I waited for new rotors to come in while the car sat.

We continued on the day, while I hooked up the Motive power bleeder to give a full flush, Justin started working on the steering wheel, hub, and quick release. Instructions were poo but it was figured out. We had some issues figuring out the horn as well as some wiring issue but got it working properly with Justin fixing the wiring in the hub. 



Lastly, we pulled the driver's seat and started to put the PCI brackets with Ergo seat in and found out I needed side mount hardware kit. Ordered from OG Racing and the car sat until this weekend. 

On Saturday I got working on my own. Got the Ergo on the brackets and in the car. I adjusted it a few times and got it in the seating position I like which is close to the steering wheel. The seat just barely cleared the door and had just enough room on the transmission tunnel side. Woot! Got the factory 3 point belt receptacle mounted the PCI tab, routed the main belt through the side hole on the seat and bolted it back down to the chassis.







I then started to work on the rear brakes. I could not for the life of me could not figure out how t o get the rear rotors off this thing. I smashed it with a hammer until my ears bled but nothing. They were so rusty and seized.... I searched and found nothing. I looked on a video of changing rotors on a NB and there I found out how. 



That small rusty hole has threads and you can put a bolt in there to push the rotor off the hub... I found out the hook that holds the jack on the rear fits. I tried this but was almost impossible to turn by hand. I took it out and remembered I had bought the steering wheel puller/harmonic balancer puller tool kit. Sure enough there was the correct size!




With some snap, crackle, and pop sounds the rotors came right off and now you can for sure see why the pad wore so terribly. Yikes...





Got the new rear rotors on with ease



As I was finishing up the brakes, my passenger seat arrived two days early. 



So, I started putting the new seat in, adjusted it as far back and as low as possible. I got it to where I thought it should be, got the belt receptacle on and left the bracket hand threaded tight as tomorrow Justin so graciously allowed me to come over and work on the roll bar at his place!

We started with the front rotor screws. I had bought a impact screwdriver bit set, and a 1/2" socket adapter to fit into those bits. Man those things did not want to come out. We got two out with ease, one took some heat and a few smacks with a dead blow along with smacking the bit into the soft metal. The last one of course didn't want to come out. Tried to drill it out to weaken it and broke the bit off. After some dead blow hits, heat, and persuasion we go it out. Heat: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DSKeHQ...5oTmNIaduX




 
Next, we started working on the roll bar. Removed plastics and the measly stock roll over protection.. Passenger + rear plastics (driver's not pictured)






We, then started putting the roll bar in, marking holes, etc. Latch bolts be stubborn below




We took a little break so I decided to install the Moddiction blue tinted, wide angle mirrors. Yup, no more blind spots at all anymore. I can see cars in the side mirrors until they are parallel to me. The blue tint removed all previous glare. So nice for driving at night in a lowered Miata! These mirrors were scary to pop back into the caps. So much pressure and they wouldn't go in. Thought I was going to break them I decided to add some heat from a hair dryer and they finally popped right in. Picture of new mirror is still wrapped.





After beer, pizza, and wings we got back to buttoning up the roll bar: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PTRrZF...5sFvTc98sq

This was also when I sliced my finger when tightening the final roll bar bolt. The socket slipped off and sent my full fist of steam into some thin sheet-metal. Picture gives you an idea of what I'm saying. That thin sheet-metal at the top that is blurred  protrudes around the entire opening of that "cubby"



That stopped us from finishing the job completely that night as I went to get stitches. Left hand, ring finger and right on the joint down to the fat tissue. Yummy. Always wear gloves. I forgot my mechanics gloves and took off my latex ones earlier to eat....

Anyway, Justin handled the business of finishing off the car on Monday. Put the passenger seat in, got the 3 point mounted, checked to be sure all was good, bolts were tightened, and got my Bluetooth module zip-tied to the roll bar. Here are some quick pics I snagged last night. 

[rherold9]

Not sure what happened to all the pictures... Here is the link to all of them: https://drive.google.com/folderview?...W9CUzY5R3JtMlE

[rherold9]

Justin and I added 6 points on Sunday. It's also nice to be able to retain the 3 points for splitting daily driving with the truck. Passenger seat is adjusted for someone who is Justin's size which is about all that will fit height/weight wise regardless

Can't wait to get this thing out there for a shake down in 2 weeks!









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[rherold9]

Had some fun with shaking down the car on Sunday at Dominion Raceway Track Attack. It was my first time on an actual track in this car.



I left the 205 all-seasons on to feel the car out. It was also damp and drizzled through the two sessions we had.





Car felt neutral-ish and I could just point and go. I could throw it in the rear would slightly move until I was on quarter throttle and it held fine. Anything near half throttle or higher unless 90% straight caused the back end to swing on out. The nice thing is how easy the car is to control. I'll have to see how it feels as I actually push it with the 245s if I need to dial back in some understeer at the Track Cross event coming up in March

[Goodspeed]

That looked like a hoot, interior is looking very tidy and proper too. I'll be curious to see if the car keeps its puppy dog demeanor when you're set up on 245s

[rherold9]

That looked like a hoot, interior is looking very tidy and proper too.  I'll be curious to see if the car keeps its puppy dog demeanor when you're set up on 245s

It was a great time for sure at least when I was purposely adding throttle to slide. There is for sure a few items here and there that still need to be done, but for now I'm enjoying the ra(i)ce-y interior.

This car is actually a great dual duty car even with all the track oriented stuff I've done. Suspension is super comfortable every day. The exhaust isn't too loud. The quick release makes it bearable to get in and out of the car. The seats aren't uncomfortable either. I've had to spend some money... but that's what you have to do with a 'compromise' car.

I'm hoping the 245s help tame the car down a quite a bit and I'll be able to actually add throttle and still steer the car, but without as much oversteer I got this weekend...

---

After reading around on alignment specs. My auto-x alignment is very agressive oversteer prone for the track (hmm I couldn't tell). NC's have a nice camber curve and more aggressive in the rear compared to NA/NB

Current:

Camber F: -2.5
Toe F: -0.05
Max Caster

Camber R: -2
Toe R: 0

Planned:

Camber F: -2.5
Toe F: 0 toe
Caster: Max

Camber R: -2.3
Toe R: +0.05 toe in

Also, I'm going to lower the rear of the car to be the same hub to fender ride height as the front to get rid of the oversteer biased higher rear rake I have now.

[Jake]

Looks like a fun time and promising start to the season!

How much does Charlie O'Baugh pay you per month to advertise for them on your trunk lid?

[rherold9]

How much does Charlie O'Baugh pay you per month to advertise for them on your trunk lid?

All the monies

[ScottyB]

looks like a blast. that rear toe should help, you were definitely riding a slip 'n slide out there.

[rherold9]

I keep doing more and more research as well as talking to Matt Huffman(RX8) and DJ. Final alignment and moving to smaller wheels and tires below

Lower the car to 13-13.25" front. Same for the rear

Final alignment:

Camber F: -2.7 to -2.8 if possible at ride height
Toe F: -1/16"
Caster: Max

Camber R: -1.8 to -2
Toe R: +1/16"

After I kill these 245 tires I have on I'll change to some 245 all seasons and run the rpf1 daily. I'll be picking up either 16x8 FD wheels if I can find them if not some 16x8 SSR SP5R in SBC or some other color I decide on. I'll run a 225/50/16 RE71R until I move to a 225/50/16 Hoosier R7 or equivalent tire.

225 seems like a good sweet spot for this car weight and power for fastest lap times. Wider is fastest at autox but can definitely slow you down for overall time at the track due to fatter rolling resistance. Yes wider has more peak grip but it will be less acceleration and more weight. For racing wider would be better for more heat tolerance at a sacrifice for fastest lap. Where something like TT you want the single fastest lap time.

Anyway, other than that probably some cooling and basic maintenance is really hugely left for the car unless I do aero for TT5.

[Evan]

I don't think Ive ever mentioned how much I love this car.


Good work. Its great to see a miata on track again.

---

Car felt neutral-ish and I could just point and go. I could throw it in the rear would slightly move until I was on quarter throttle and it held fine. Anything near half throttle or higher unless 90% straight caused the back end to swing on out. The nice thing is how easy the car is to control.

When I first got my Miata R, RJ and I split driving it at a VIR event. I had been driving Maeng's Integra for a few events prior and we all know RJ is a FWD retard.
The miata was an epiphany. The first thing you notice is how well a FR just turns. Rotates, pivots, turn the wheel, point and shoot. It was amazing.
Once you go FR, you'll never go back.

[rherold9]

I don't think Ive ever mentioned how much I love this car.


Good work.  Its great to see a miata on track again.

---

When I first got my Miata R,  RJ and I split driving it at a VIR event.  I had been driving Maeng's Integra for a few events prior and we all know RJ is a FWD retard.  
The miata was an epiphany.  The first thing you notice is how well a FR just turns.  Rotates,  pivots,  turn the wheel,  point and shoot.  It was amazing.  
Once you go FR,  you'll never go back.

Who is this Evan and what have you done to him?

[rherold9]

101,9xx

Did some last minute prep on the car for the trackcross on Sunday. I'm driving to MD today to see family and then driving down to Dominion at 5am on Sunday so no real time to work on it except last night.

Did a quick oil change with 0w-20 Castrol Edge Full Synthetic and K&N filter. Yeah, so exciting, I know. I was surprised that this car takes almost 5 quarts(4.8) for a little 2.0, but it is baffled from the factory and does have an "oil cooler". Probably change it mid-season.

Then decided to inspect the car. All bolts were snug still. Added coolant and was all set except one thing...

Forgot to snag pics, but the only thing I noticed was the plastic lining on the stainless brake lines had a small 1/10" tear. The tear was in the same area on both front lines. Could not see if it was rubbing anywhere even after turning full lock for both directions. I assume it tore from being pulled/stretched as that's the only thing I noticed at full lock was the line naturally pulled itself a little.

The tiny tear in the plastic lining did not reach the hollow, round, metal mounting piece that it flows through. That piece bolts on the upper arm to keep it away from the tires and other components. That's where I thought it would be rubbing on. The part of the line that did pass through it did not have any marks of chafing.

I'll continue to monitor to be sure it isn't chafing the stainless line itself and will remember to grab pics. It would be bad to have brake failure on an actual track coming down a straight-a-way. This is why we inspect things though. I wouldn't have known otherwise.

Anyway, I took apart the center console to fill the shifter turret and grease the shifter assembly and found a nice rusty screw on the interior. Tried several screw drivers of flat and phillips head type and had no luck. Brought out the dead blow and hammered a phillips into it a bit and got it out...

I filled the mostly empty turret and lubed the shift assembly balls with grease. Shifting is much much better to 2nd and 3rd gear in the cold!

I then put the stickies on for the weekend. Let's see how this car does this weekend. Definitely looking forward to it!!

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[Senor_Taylor]

Is your shifter stock? I don't know how quickly the shifters get "loose" but even at their worst, it's not terrible compared to other cars. But when you do rebuild it, the difference is noticeable.

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[rherold9]

Yes stock shifter. I haven't seen anyone rebuild a NC. They are all metal assembly with two balls. Don't think they can go bad from what I know

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[Senor_Taylor]

Sounds like an NA. There have to be plastic bushings in there somewhere.

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[rherold9]

Not that I know of. After removing the center console. Thick rubber boot on thin metal plate with 4 nuts. Then there is a small plate with 3 bolts. Then the shifter pulls out. It sits in the "turret" with two little nipples that stick out where there the big top ball sits with a spring (guessing the spring is to let the car know if it's in reverse). Then the bottom little ball sits in the fluid at the bottom

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[JustinG]

marks of chafing...
lubed the balls with grease.

Yup....seems like the correct course of action

[Evan]

Stainless lines didnt even used to come with a plastic liner at all. I put coil wrap around mine just to give them a buffer. (like this https://static.securecableties.net/conte...-foot.jpeg)

Definitely keep an eye on it every time you get under the car but dont sweat it otherwise.

[rherold9]

Attended the Trackcross yesterday and had a blast. It was a weird feeling being at track speeds. I had forgotten how fast it actually was and how much time I still left on the table due to just being timid on how hard I pushed the car. 



Overall, I didn't get a great feel on what the car wants to do. Tires really did not get up to temp, but the car still had tons of grip everywhere. It was hard to get the car to do anything unless I aggressively trail braked and had sloppy inputs like my 4th run in the morning sessions. I kept adding more and more throttle, without modulation, and earlier after turn in. The car just pointed and went with no issues. The car will rotate and can be throttle steered nicely if needed on tighter turns, but still has a slight bit of understeer on tighter turns, I think?? Maybe once the tires get up to temp and I learn to trail brake better the car will be just fine, but it was nice not having nasty oversteer like I did before.

Morning runs where we didn't get a time:
 

My fastest run was going to be my last, felt great in person and looked even better in video, unfortunately the 370z wrecked pretty gnarly like after the finish and I still ran a 64 after letting off and braking to slow after turn 8 when I saw the flag. Regardless, I started at a 64? and I gradually got faster by almost one second per run in the afternoon to a time of 61.4. For sure had some time left on the table with a better driver.

I also added the halos on the seat to get used to it. Yeah, for sure felt more confined and cut off vision. It was interesting looking over to my passenger side mirror, but driver's said and rear were fine. I wonder how it will be on track. Good thing I decided to run DE2 next weekend or I'd probably poo myself.

Afternoon runs:
 


Things to do this week: 

• Inspect car especially the lines
  
• Possibly lower the rear and get the car-realigned (still trying to decide if I want to do this yet)
  
• ??? Trying to think of other things