Really? Another Miata thread....

[rherold9]

Was lucky enough to see a post from a fellow NC owner, one that actually will be in TT5 in Great Lakes region, about a new lightweight battery. Antigravity ATX20-RS Lithium RE-START Battery  and it looked pretty solid. Recent price drop that I noticed on Amazon well below the retail so I snagged one!

Looks to be 3.8 pounds (Stock battery has to be 20+ pounds...), 680c amps (higher than stock), reserve capacity for starting if the battery dies. Going to be a nice upgrade for the car but $$$$$$$$$ #justracecarthings. Hopefully it will do it's job well. Plans were to keep the battery on a tender when not at the track but still nice for peace of mind. Guess I'll have to order that track dog racing kit now... 

[rherold9]

Season updates/goals. Blue highlights in progress/bought. Yellow is decision has been made. Green means done. Red means new additions. Crossed means not doing it:

• New plastic rear window
  
• Strip weight - Just need to complete sound deadening
  
• Front/rear class + number stickers
  
• Diff fluid change
  
• Transmission fluid change
  
• Oil change
  
• STA-BIL in gas tank
  
• Eastwood rubber brake line mounts
  
• ARP Wheel studs + open-ended lug nuts
  
• RX8 front hub upgrade + new rear hubs
  
• Rain tires - Conti ECS
  
• Chassis bracing (may have prototype bracing to test for this)
  
• Good Win Racing stiffer motor mounts
  
• Flyin Miata exhaust hanger replacement
  
• TDR Super Cool Kit - lightweight battery purchased but not the kit yet
  
• Brake ducts (c6 z06 fog light ducts + awr hub ducts and ducting)
  
• Singular hood vents
  
• Rear bumper cut to crash bar
  
• Sell stuff to make money back - have actually sold quite a few things
  
• GWR 1.8 header (purchased), catless midpipe with double resonators (purchased), swap current street muffler with a race muffler from another NC Miata
  
• Figure out ram air intake solution
  
• EcuTek dyno tune
  
• Cover fog light holes
  
• LRBSpeed flat undertray
  
• Replaced messed up fender liners
  
• Extra set of 17x9 RPF1's
  

Strip weight just needs some sound deadening pulled. Unless I get bored I'll roll with this weight probably for the rest of the season. Next season is wiring, headlight removal, etc. for full racetard.

ARP studs came in, open Muteki SR48 extended lugs came in, RX8 front hub/bearing, rear bearing, and new hub/flange. I will use the ones I have on the car that I will be taking off as spares. Good-Win-Racing competition motor mounts are purchased. Will help significantly on track with shifting. Transferring more load to the chassis vs allowing the engine flex as much. Battery update can be found in previous post. Just need to call Track Dog Racing about if I can buy their kit without the battery they offer if not I'll have a battery for sale from their kit. Hood vents have been purchased for the sweet sweet cooling and small aero gains

Conti ECS seem like a solid budget primary rain tire. Obviously Hoosier wet is the baller option but I'm not racing and would like to save some money here. There's usually at least one TT session a weekend that a dry tire is fastest. These are just seat time generators for the most part! Racing would be a different story and you'd want stickiest wet tires like Hoosiers because there isn't 3-4 race sessions a weekend like there are with TT.

I've decided I'm just going to get max power I can without e85 or touching engine internals. Hoping for a good 6whp gains... DPTuning in NOVA will be tuning it if I can't get Flim Flam on board to become a ECUTek tuner. I would like to figure out what I want to do for a RAM air intake solution. I'm probably going to use a hole saw and slice right through the bumper. Get air directly to the intake. If I do this I need to a) start with larger piping step down to smaller piping if I want this actually to be effective. Thoughts are short 4" or 3.5" inlet -> 3" to filter -> stock 2.75" size longest piece into the throttle body. No standing dyno gains but should increase airflow when moving to push more air and theoretically have a few more hp at faster speeds.

Cover fog lights, flat under-tray, and fix fender liners for better aero efficiency. At my lower hp I think aero won't payoff enough in comparison to hp. But, I can always test that later if I'd like to. For now we'll test with the basic 'free' point aero efficiency mods. This may even move to hood ducting, mirror removal, etc. if I decide to get real serious about it. I'll have to figure out a solution on the front bumper clips where the fender liners mount to as like all the clip points are broken for the most part.

New wheel purchase for sticky tires aka Hoosier R7/BFG R1. I'll be keeping my current RPF1's and load some sticky 200tw tires on them when my RC-1s completely die in a few more events for dry events like GTA, Gridlife, or SCCA TT. They require 100tw+ usually and the sticky 200s at the moment are basically just as fast as 100tw. 

I've been contemplating aero vs non-aero build for some time. Asking around with some people including ST/TT folks and reading up online I'll just be running OEM aero for now and build to the rule book and see where we are. So, that means not doing brake ducts atm. Yes I'll have replace front brake pads 1 event sooner but whatever. This also means no bumper cut. Oh well. Goal is to save a couple thousand in aero and put it towards other items to get the car prepped up.

I found out the reason my poly hanger ripped is because they require constant lube or they will rip. Had no idea this was the case because there was no info about this on FMs product page. I found this out on GWR's product page. OEM rubber won't rip so I'll be using OEM rubber hangers

[rherold9]

Optimistic 2019 schedule. We'll see how much I can stick with this... ha.

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[Senor_Taylor]

Jesus. This is your life now, huh?

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[rherold9]

Jesus. This is your life now, huh?

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Gotta keep my ass motivated or it'll be a week out from the first event and uh... nothing would be done in typical MM fashion.

Not worth the stress that I've experienced in the past so I'm getting shit done and planned out as much as possible as early as possible

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[D_Eclipse9916]

Come down NASA SE at CMP!

[rherold9]

Come down NASA SE at CMP!

Shooting for May. The track looks flat, but has multiple types of turns, which should make it fun. I'll be in Prague for Feb event, unfortunately

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[Jake]

I'm exhausted just seeing that schedule. Nearly half of your weekends for 2019 are (theoretically) booked.

I'll be happy to make it to all the Mid-Atlantic stuff and Nationals at Mid-Ohio, maybe squeeze in a practice weekend at Mid-O as well.

[rherold9]

I'm exhausted just seeing that schedule. Nearly half of your weekends for 2019 are (theoretically) booked.

If you were just exhausted by looking at that, try making it... Good thing I don't have responsibilities. Got to enjoy it as much as I can while I can

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[ScottyB]

not that you need more encouragement but here's another decent 2.5 swap writeup from GRM:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/...432/page1/

[rherold9]

not that you need more encouragement but here's another decent 2.5 swap writeup from GRM:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/...432/page1/

Yerp. That's the goals!! Have already pre-bought the GWR 1.8" header for the 2.5 that will be going on my current 2.0 for this season.

I'm hoping next season for full safety + 2.5 swap. We'll see if I can get it all done.

I got tons of parts here that I've been sitting on and not installing because lazy. Updates will probably start coming in end of Feb/March... If anyone in Richmond wants to get me motivated I'll offer free beer and pizza.

Looks like the house is a package facility/junk yard at this point...

[rherold9]

Finally got off my ass with 4 weeks to go. No pictures just words for this update.

Motor Mounts done
Exhaust done minus header which I'm saving for 2.5 swap
Super Cool Kit installed due to Cabell. Huge thanks and appreciation for the help. Just needs some finishing touches
Sound deadening is mostly removed. Probably just going to leave it as is and have the cage builder or painter deal with the rest hahaha. Fuck that.

Overall, stuff is moving along. Still was a pain in the ass as it always is when working on a car. Lots of cussing, grunting, yelling, etc. Nuts, not wanting to break loose, exhaust hangers being little dickheads, etc.

I've decided to just tape off the fog light holes with black duct tape so I can easily swap to brake ducts if I'd like to vs spending $75 on OEM plastics...

I've decided I'm going to also just use collision wrap for the windows in transpot instead of building brackets as the windows won't fully seal without OEM seals which is $$$$

Rear hardtop window was fixed by Chase. It's 90% clear now

Hoosier lost Contintenal sponsor for imsa so they had their discontinued tires on sale. Bought some wets and dries that are NASA approved for literally the same cost as street tires per set. So, now I have rain tires that are the same as Hoosier H20's as well as the EC dry which is basically a Hoosier R7. The sticky tires won't be used until my current RC-1 are on their last leg

I bought another set of RPF1's for the rain tires. I plan on purchasing even another set of RPF1's for 200tw RE-71R so I can compete with SCCA, Gridlife, etc. as well. Waiting on this until I know I'm actually going to run one of their events

Have no idea what is going on with the chassis bracing that a friend said I was going to help prototype. Deal probably fell through. Don't really care.

LRB never responded to me about the undertray I asked them about. They currently don't make one that covers the bottom of the front fender liners. No point of buying one without those. Just going to call at another point and see if they can swing it

Ram air intake solution is really not needed until I swap and really need the power. It'll just be a waste of time on the current 2.0

EcuTek tune as well would be not worth money invested until the 2.5 swap. Going to hold off on that

I have bought new springs for all 4 corners. Going only a little stiffer in anticipation of the sticky tires. 10k->12k front and 7-8k rear. Very similar to cup car rates and other NC track car rates. I'll also be lowering the rear about 1/4" due to cutting most of the weight in the back half of the car

So, really the only things left are button little pieces up, fluid changes, hood vents, hubs/bearings, alignment, and buy class/number vinyl for the front/rear of the car

Hoping I'll have everything done for by the weekend of the 9th and I can send the car off to alignment!

New alignment specs I'm going for will be:

Front
-3.2 camber
-0.05 toe

Rear
-2.7 camber
+0.05 toe

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[Jake]

Awesome! Chugging right along.

A few notes -

1. Duct tape will work for about one weekend on that bumper and then it'll start to come apart. I did the same thing with my car. The other option is some aluminum sheeting that you cut and rivet to the bumper. It will be semi-ugly but screw it, racecar, and more functional.

2. Collision wrap sounds like a headache. Can you just use the factory glass on some brackets and deal with slight leaks? Remember you'll want to throw windows in overnight or if it rains. Or fix this problem by purchasing an enclosed trailer.

3. Tell me more about these Hoosierish wet tires. May be worth nabbing a set.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Awesome! Chugging right along.

A few notes -

1. Duct tape will work for about one weekend on that bumper and then it'll start to come apart. I did the same thing with my car. The other option is some aluminum sheeting that you cut and rivet to the bumper. It will be semi-ugly but screw it, racecar, and more functional.

2. Collision wrap sounds like a headache. Can you just use the factory glass on some brackets and deal with slight leaks? Remember you'll want to throw windows in overnight or if it rains. Or fix this problem by purchasing an enclosed trailer.

3. Tell me more about these Hoosierish wet tires. May be worth nabbing a set.

You can't use them.  They are non-dot approved so you would have to take the hit in power/weight.

Get a small sheet of carbon and do the block offs.  How big is it? The thin carbon sheet stuff is flexible and pretty cheap.  Plus looks way more awesome than tape/aluminum.  

[rherold9]

Awesome! Chugging right along.

A few notes -

1. Duct tape will work for about one weekend on that bumper and then it'll start to come apart. I did the same thing with my car. The other option is some aluminum sheeting that you cut and rivet to the bumper. It will be semi-ugly but screw it, racecar, and more functional.

2. Collision wrap sounds like a headache. Can you just use the factory glass on some brackets and deal with slight leaks? Remember you'll want to throw windows in overnight or if it rains. Or fix this problem by purchasing an enclosed trailer.

3. Tell me more about these Hoosierish wet tires. May be worth nabbing a set.

It's Gorilla tape so I hope it lasts... If not I'll have to figure something else out

Is it much more of a headache than placing the windows in? I'm not sure on that answer. Just pull, place, cut off and you have your windows sealed. We'll see if it does suck and I can switch it up

They are Conti EC-Wet found in 17" or 18". The 17" are split into Left side and Right side for some reason. Greg approved them for ST/TT "rain" sessions when I asked him. May want to see if they are okay for GTS. Couldn't pass up the price.... Dry tires were only $25 more a piece.

[Jake]

Is it much more of a headache than placing the windows in? I'm not sure on that answer. Just pull, place, cut off and you have your windows sealed. We'll see if it does suck and I can switch it up

I think it will be annoying but go ahead and try it... carrying a roll of cling wrap with you sounds annoying to start, and how well does it stick to an already-wet car?

You know how I am about being mildly inconvenienced, though, so your experience may differ from mine.

[rherold9]

You can't use them.  They are non-dot approved so you would have to take the hit in power/weight.

Get a small sheet of carbon and do the block offs.  How big is it? The thin carbon sheet stuff is flexible and pretty cheap.  Plus looks way more awesome than tape/aluminum.  

For ST/TT in the dry -

CTSC Tires:
Continental Tire Sportscar Challenge EC-Dry tires (225, 245 only) are permitted and
shall be considered equivalent to DOT approved tires for classing purposes.

Like I said Jake, definitely check with the GTS team to see if they are approved for you. I had to email Greg to get confirmation on the wets. He said they would be considered DOT for classing purposes during rain sessions only.

The whole fog light cover itself is a weird diamond shape that is raised and also has the bottom reflectors built in. The fog light hole is round. I was just going to tape off the round fog light hole. I guess I could hole saw material, but it won't look "clean" unless I replace with oem stuff.

For me personally, I see no point in making shit trying to look better. It's still shit?



I guess I could cut material to fit on the outside of the cover so it's flat all the way to the side marker. That would allow me to keep the oem cover, remove foglight and cover it flat. Definitely not an easy shape to cut, but everything would be smooth there

---

I think it will be annoying but go ahead and try it... carrying a roll of cling wrap with you sounds annoying to start, and how well does it stick to an already-wet car?

You know how I am about being mildly inconvenienced, though, so your experience may differ from mine.

Not sure, probably enough. Is there a point of using the windows if they don't seal though? Just seems counter-intuitive to make brackets for something that doesn't work 100%? I'm all for either way just trying to think if it's worth it?

[D_Eclipse9916]

Awesome! Chugging right along.

A few notes -

1. Duct tape will work for about one weekend on that bumper and then it'll start to come apart. I did the same thing with my car. The other option is some aluminum sheeting that you cut and rivet to the bumper. It will be semi-ugly but screw it, racecar, and more functional.

2. Collision wrap sounds like a headache. Can you just use the factory glass on some brackets and deal with slight leaks? Remember you'll want to throw windows in overnight or if it rains. Or fix this problem by purchasing an enclosed trailer.

3. Tell me more about these Hoosierish wet tires. May be worth nabbing a set.

It's Gorilla tape so I hope it lasts... If not I'll have to figure something else out

Is it much more of a headache than placing the windows in? I'm not sure on that answer. Just pull, place, cut off and you have your windows sealed. We'll see if it does suck and I can switch it up

They are Conti EC-Wet found in 17" or 18". The 17" are split into Left side and Right side for some reason. Greg approved them for ST/TT "rain" sessions when I asked him. May want to see if they are okay for GTS. Couldn't pass up the price.... Dry tires were only $25 more a piece.

Not legal for GTS, which Jake runs in and I quoted .

[Kaan]

I use the cling window stuff because Chad gutted my doors so much, there is nothing left to bracket to (though I have windows to use or use as a template for some epiphany moments).

My first use was a LONG day in the rain. We put it on semi dry (wipe with blue towels and while still raining). I got very little water in the car from Winchester to VIR, hauling the mail, in 100% rain all the time.

you not only need a roll of the cling stuff, but you should carry a pocket knife. it will make life easier when you are trying to wrap the windows and roll.

[rherold9]

Here's quick pics of the track dog racing kit compared to stock. This will definitely help with cooling and also makes the engine bay a little cleaner

   

   



The ECU that is now on the right side used to be buried under the airbox with a black plastic shield. The battery is now the AG 3.5 pound battery. Bent the AC lines away from battery. Kill switch (red knob) is also removable key on the left side of the battery. Basically can't start the car without it. Power steering reservoir moved slightly over. Will need to bleed the power steering now. A lot of back and forth motion I hear for that. Windshield washer fluid bottle moved towards firewall. Overall, looks great. The radiator can now do it's job and get air through easier. If only the engine bay was clean....

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