Project Midlife Crisis

[GTBrandon]

The racecar had a failing wheel bearing that would make noise exactly like you describe, but everything "felt tight" when I tried jiggling the wheel around. I'd place your bets there.

Think fronts since it has to do with turning?

[JPolen01]

Do not use eBay parts. Most are Chinese junk with no engineering or R&D behind them. Never.

[*insertusernamehere*]

New fluids, pads and rotors for your hot shaky brakes.

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[GTBrandon]

New fluids, pads and rotors for your hot shaky brakes.

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I don’t see how that would fix shaking brakes when hot

[*insertusernamehere*]

New fluids, pads and rotors for your hot shaky brakes.

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I don’t see how that would fix shaking brakes when hot

You could probably do just the rotors but when they get hot it can make a difference versus them being cold. There is probably some unevenness on your rotors or deposits. My p5 did this. The rotors looked like ass, had shit fluid and had shit pads, were fine when cold but would bounce coins out of the cupholder over 33 downhill. My buddy's car did this on the way vir down Afton mountain, it was fine once we got on the flat and everything cooled off.

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[Scott]

The racecar had a failing wheel bearing that would make noise exactly like you describe, but everything "felt tight" when I tried jiggling the wheel around. I'd place your bets there.

This wheel bearing felt tight too.  4 corners later:





Wheel bearing could also be causing the vibration you are feeling when it get hot that you thought were the brakes.  I was getting a pulsing when braking the previous session as well which caused me to check the bearings.  Turned out to be metal fatigue.

[*insertusernamehere*]

The racecar had a failing wheel bearing that would make noise exactly like you describe, but everything "felt tight" when I tried jiggling the wheel around. I'd place your bets there.

This wheel bearing felt tight too.  4 corners later:





Wheel bearing could also be causing the vibration you are feeling when it get hot that you thought were the brakes.  I was getting a pulsing when braking the previous session as well which caused me to check the bearings.  Turned out to be metal fatigue.

HEH well I'm sure glad the P5 didn't throw me off the side of the mountain [emoji54]

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[GTBrandon]

*nervous gulp*

Now I’m wondering if I should just do all four to be safe. Also wondering how much stress I want to put on the car before doing them, IE autocross

[.RJ]

bad bushings, the ones that take braking loads, can also be worn causing vibrations.

[*insertusernamehere*]

I'm still putting money on your rotors.

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[Senor_Taylor]

I personally wouldn't worry about it before the car show.

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[GTBrandon]

I personally wouldn't worry about it before the car show.

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Lol I'm not worried about having it sit in a parking lot, I'm worried about pushing it in an autocross

[Scott]

*nervous gulp*

Now I’m wondering if I should just do all four to be safe. Also wondering how much stress I want to put on the car before doing them, IE autocross

bad bushings, the ones that take braking loads, can also be worn causing vibrations.

I'm still putting money on your rotors. 

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Before blindly throwing parts at your car, now is the time to do some diagnostic work, or take it to a shop to have it really gone over (not the last place that "went over it").

[JPolen01]

Aren't you friends with the MAAP guys? Isn't this their thing?

[Scott]

Aren't you friends with the MAAP guys? Isn't this their thing?

That’s who did the initial “inspection”.  I’d take it some place else based on their past reputation in the enthusiast community like Mid Atlantic if you want to stay in Harrisonburg

[ViPER1313]

For the pulsating brakes; my money is 100% on the pads and rotors. It just sounds like mildly warped brakes to me. The pulsating sensation has always gotten way worse when the brakes are hot, then returned to near normal when they cooled down on every car I have ever had.

[GTBrandon]

Before blindly throwing parts at your car, now is the time to do some diagnostic work, or take it to a shop to have it really gone over (not the last place that "went over it").

I like diagnosing things myself for both my satisfaction and my wallet but it might have to come to bringing it to a shop. I don’t want to waste time and money throwing parts at the car that might not even be the problem. I never had this thing on a lift at MAAP, only at my shop back home which was before the noise had occurred and they said it checked it.

[GTBrandon]

For the pulsating brakes; my money is 100% on the pads and rotors. It just sounds like mildly warped brakes to me. The pulsating sensation has always gotten way worse when the brakes are hot, then returned to near normal when they cooled down on every car I have ever had.

It’s weird since the dealership had just replaced front pads/rotors before I bought the car. I might just live with the rotors, and get better pads, fluid, and lines before my DE weekend.

Aren't you friends with the MAAP guys? Isn't this their thing?

Yeah I just didn’t want to bother them too much with this. I’ve been talking on the phone about the issue but might as well just bring the car in and have them look at it in person before the problem gets any worse.

Aren't you friends with the MAAP guys? Isn't this their thing?

That’s who did the initial “inspection”.  I’d take it some place else based on their past reputation in the enthusiast community like Mid Atlantic if you want to stay in Harrisonburg

They never did a real inspection, just walked around it with me as I didn’t ask for anything more from Cole. I have my shop back home but again don’t really want to pay for this when I hear almost everyone tell me it’s a wheel bearing.

[Scott]

Get a real diagnosis before throwing parts at it, there have been 3 different reasonable possibilities on this page alone

[GTBrandon]

Well, the dragging issue was definitely my brake pads. Took them off and the rotor spun fine without noise, I cleaned the pads, rotors, and calipers as much as possible so hopefully, that helps. If not, I plan on changing pads, fluid, and all hardware before the next track day so I should be good. On a side note: remember to plug back in all wires or else your ABS and Traction will be no bueno during brake bedding

Pad Sound

I have a new sound I noticed but with enough music and exhaust it's unnoticeable so I'm not too concerned with taking the door card off to figure it out. But if any of you have heard this before, let me know what it could be. It's not the speakers as it is without the sound system on, sounds like plastic rattling but is very random so who knows. 

Rattle

Also, I was finally able to get license plates on the car, and yes, I think I'm funny.



I decided to be impulsive and head over to Bill's Mufflers to have them chop off my muffler. The way I look at it, $100 is better than $1,000 on a real exhaust, and if I hate it I can have the old muffler put back on, or just buy a real exhaust in the future. For now, I love the way it sounds and couldn't be happier and ricy-er, we'll see how long that last's when I'm at 3300rpm on 81 though.  

Exhaust Video

I think for now I'm good with modifications and will see how it does on track with better pads, fluids, and more experience with heel-toe. Got an FM transmitter for $20 instead of $1,000 on head-unit retrofit, as well as ordered new climate switches from some Argentinian in Germany so we'll see if those ever show up..

Still want new rims, something like this, but would want to sell my current rims first as I don't want to drop $1k on this car just for different rims until I save up more money for unforeseen issues/consumables. Side vents/Bumperette Delete would be cool, but they are $500 each so that's a no-go for now as well. 



Okay, back to your regularly scheduled silence on the thread until I break something else.