Really? Another Miata thread....

[*insertusernamehere*]

Oh wait, what's that? You got it just cause you like it?

OK yeah I understand that. Enjoy it man, shiny parts are the best parts!

[WRXtranceformed]

Who called out who? I must have missed something. Some GhostHate™

[*insertusernamehere*]

Who called out who? I must have missed something. Some GhostHate™

Just Ryan dredging up last week's old news lol

[WRXtranceformed]

Who called out who? I must have missed something. Some GhostHate™

Just Ryan dredging up last week's old news lol

:thumbup:

[rherold9]

Who called out who? I must have missed something. Some GhostHate™

Just Ryan dredging up last week's old news lol

You mean last night on the group message?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Gordonovski]

Shoulda just lopped the exhaust off at the cat and spend that money on a rollbar. [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Senor_Taylor]

Who called out who? I must have missed something. Some GhostHate™

Me. I made a joke about Ryan buying a car then doing mods to it that indicate he should have bought a different car because he bought an NC and was worried about Weight when an NC is the heaviest Miata. I understand kind of where he is coming from though, you come to expect the ribbing so you preemptively argue against it. Unfortunately that just brings more ribbing. Since switching to GroupMe, our groupchat has become more of a regular group chat where we (and by that, I mean I) give everyone shit.

[rherold9]

because he bought an NC and was worried about Weight when an NC is the heaviest Miata

To sum it up, was giving reasons why I did a single over dual since Matthew questioned it. One of the few reasons I said was weight reduction by x pounds. Matthew says if cared about weight reduction then I wouldn't have bought an NC. Taylor makes jokes. I sarcastically agree. Now we are here after I make a sarcastic comment about an opinion.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

[*insertusernamehere*]

LOL Taylors comment was just pure gold. I'm still dead. Never came back to life.

[Scott]

[/quote]

I use the cheap version of that:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.walmart.com/ip/13376324?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227009419045&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40471888592&wl4=pla-60819427646&wl5=9008461&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla_multichannel&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=13376324&wl13=&veh=sem">https://www.walmart.com/ip/13376324?wml ... 3=&veh=sem</a><!-- m -->

Works perfectly fine.

[D_Eclipse9916]

If that actually works that is impressive. I wouldnt expect that to be able to handle thick ATF/Diff fluid. Go to home depot, buy brass turn off lever and metal hook (thats a feature that is really nice) and win.

You have actually used it? I can barely get one of those things to work properly on weeds and as "cooler" for tires on grid... Luckily I already got the motive

[Scott]

If that actually works that is impressive. I wouldnt expect that to be able to handle thick ATF/Diff fluid. Go to home depot, buy brass turn off lever and metal hook (thats a feature that is really nice) and win.

You have actually used it? I can barely get one of those things to work properly on weeds and as "cooler" for tires on grid... Luckily I already got the motive

I've been using one since 2010 when I watched a Spec Miata prep shop do it to one of their cars. My mind was blown after spending so much time fighting the cheap auto store pumps. Pump up some pressure, stick the nozzle in the fill, lock the handle and go open a beer .

[rherold9]

I use the cheap version of that:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.walmart.com/ip/13376324?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227009419045&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40471888592&wl4=pla-60819427646&wl5=9008461&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla_multichannel&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=13376324&wl13=&veh=sem">https://www.walmart.com/ip/13376324?wml ... 3=&veh=sem</a><!-- m -->

Works perfectly fine.

Well just bought some redline 75-90 diff fluid and going to give this thing a try

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

[rherold9]

So, after reading online about ride frequencies for auto-x vs street on the Miata I see to stay under 2.0Hz for street vs track/auto-x stay under 2.5Hz. My plan is to either start right above the 2.0Hz line like at 2.05Hz or go middle-ground at 2.2Hz.

2.0Hz puts the car around 400F/325R or 7.1kF/5.8kR

2.05Hz puts the car around 425F/350R or 7.6kF/6.3kR

2.2Hz puts the car around 500F/400R or 8.9kF/7.1kR

The goal is to keep the car mostly streetable as I will daily this car more than auto-x while being able to actually get heat into 245 RE-71R tires and not have too much dive/squat/roll. I plan to keep the stock front sway bar and remove the rear sway bar to help with grip/remove oversteer and helps keep ride comfort better with stock/no sway bars. If that doesn't fix oversteer I will upgrade to a stiffer front bar and put the stock rear on or leave it off.

Since the Ohlins hit 1.96Hz front and 1.65Hz rear I'm going to mark them off the list. Yeah DFV and shit that helps suck up curbing and bigger bumps on the road but is a bit too soft for what I'm going for. Plus the price is a bit high...

I'm looking at going the Feal 441 Road Race route with custom valved dampers per whatever Swift Spring rates you choose or they help you choose. Feal will also re-valve the dampers for a change in spring rates if I either want to go softer or harder.

Calling DJ or others with understanding of ride frequencies and what you think would be okay for the stickier street tires at an auto-x with usually quicker transitions than the track. If it were a track car on the street tires the 2.0Hz rate would be just fine just not sure how well it would do at an auto-x.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Calling DJ or others with understanding of ride frequencies and what you think would be okay for the stickier street tires at an auto-x with usually quicker transitions than the track. If it were a track car on the street tires the 2.0Hz rate would be just fine just not sure how well it would do at an auto-x.

Throw all ride frequency data out the window :lol:

Go with what experienced shops/racers tell you. I see a lot of enterprising young racers spout off all the engineering data in the world about ride frequencies and balance and end up with a really wonky setup that doesn't work.

Looking at the spring rates and based off the weight of a miata, and this supposed to be a streetable car, I would say the softest at 400 (or going with the Ohlins). I have heard of Feal but have no real experience with their shocks.

Is this STX prep or daily prep?

Edit: I would think for a streetable car you would want lower spring rates and a stiffer bar?

[rherold9]

Go with what experienced shops/racers tell you.

Looking at the spring rates and based off the weight of a miata, and this supposed to be a streetable car, I would say the softest at 400 (or going with the Ohlins). I have heard of Feal but have no real experience with their shocks.

Is this STX prep or daily prep?

Edit: I would think for a streetable car you would want lower spring rates and a stiffer bar?

For STR prep.

Flying Miata FOX street kit is 375F/300R or 6.6kF/5.4kR
Flying Miata FOX race kit is 550F/450R or 9.8kF/8kR

Feal won't give exact specs unless I buy from them but a rough estimate from a previous customer was 8kF/6kR or 450F/336R. Feal does exactly what I just did and looks at frequencies, tires, aero, etc.. and then recommends a rate and valve's accordingly.

Ohlin street is 392F/224R or 7kF/4kR
Ohlin race is 672F/392R or 12kF/7kR

Really not too far off what other companies offer. There is no specific auto-x coilover unless custom valved and spring rated. Many people in STR trying to be really competitive are running 600+ front and 450+ rear with sway bars. That will be a bit much for a daily on some roads here which puts it around 2.5Hz ride frequency.

Yes, bigger sways and softer springs would make a softer ride quality but less grip. I feel like at an auto-x though the more tire on the ground and more grip = faster?

[rherold9]

So, I changed the differential fluid. Looks liked it has been changed at least once in 90k miles as it didn't look like black death compared to the transmission fluid.

The sprayer Scott recommended worked like a charm. I don't know how long it will last but it's definitely worth the cheap ass cost. 10/10 would recommend.



Also, I realized that Fortune Auto is right around the corner from Richmond. They do good work. I'm probably going to take it to them and get them custom build some 500's or 510's for the car since I plan on keeping the car might as well and don't want to regret or buy the wrong coilovers. They can easily rebuild as well. I'll have to check again but I heard from Sam a few years ago they install, corner balance, adjust height, preload, and everything if you take it to them. Don't know if that's still true.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[D_Eclipse9916]

Yes, bigger sways and softer springs would make a softer ride quality but less grip. I feel like at an auto-x though the more tire on the ground and more grip = faster?

Funny thing is, you are describing the difference in East Coast vs West Coast setups for the most part :wink:

I personally prefer softer springs with a big front sway and no rear bar. Others are opposite. Just saying, see what the other STR guys are doing and do that.

[rherold9]

I personally prefer softer springs with a big front sway and no rear bar. Others are opposite. Just saying, see what the other STR guys are doing and do that.

Auto-x or track?

I definitely plan on no rear bar. Should help a lot to keep the rear tires on the ground. I'm not opposed to upgrading the front bar either. I have looked. Just too stiff for driving every day. If I drove it as an auto-x car and fun car every now and then I'd go full stiff but I think harshness would get old fast

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[D_Eclipse9916]

I do that because I have a higher horsepower car. Not usre you need the extra acceleration grip vs higher rate that will give you more cornering grip. Remember, it's a trade off.