Uh oh...fuel pump death whine

[D_Eclipse9916]

Also, crimp > solder

Heretic.

Woah, I would never use crimps in a vehicle, due to the vibration they seem to always fall apart, or I could just suck at crimping. A good solder and heat shrink should never fall apart and cant loosen up over time.

Whenever we would get cars in with crimp jobs it was always such a pain in the ass because it had all fallen apart and gotten tangled and was just a mess. Bad solder jobs are even worse. But ive seen a few cars with professional installation with good solder jobs and when I pulled the head units out, all the connections were still rock solid.

Ive run into this argument a lot of times, I guess its like wether people like convertibles or coupes.

[Ryan T]

That job wouldn't have taken half the time if that damn hardline hadn't been such a pain. I did however discover that when the bolt does finally break free and you deliver a devastating left hook to the swaybar.....the swaybar still wins.

[Dave]

Crimps are good if done correctly and cleanly, and are a very efficient wiring technique. That said, if you're wanting a clean, professional installation that will last for every, I'd take a soldering gun to it every time.

[Goodspeed]

Yeah, soldering gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling inside because I know its a solid connection right down to the electrons. However, the Walbro instructions call for crimping, and my first solder attempt was horrible and fell apart. The second time around, the wiring had some gas on it and the whole thing was probably emanating fumes, so I wasn't too keen on holding a soldering tip/lighter to it. So I just made some solid crimps and taped them up real good, felt way more solid.

OT: I used to be good at soldering, at least in a clean, air conditioned indoor environment with the right equipment. In my senior shop class, I built the "Funky Disco Robot". It was a four wheeled, purple velvet covered mobile music machine looping Jungle Boogie from an onboard CD player.

[NTIman]

Also, crimp > solder

Heretic.

Woah, I would never use crimps in a vehicle, due to the vibration they seem to always fall apart, or I could just suck at crimping. A good solder and heat shrink should never fall apart and cant loosen up over time.

Whenever we would get cars in with crimp jobs it was always such a pain in the ass because it had all fallen apart and gotten tangled and was just a mess. Bad solder jobs are even worse. But ive seen a few cars with professional installation with good solder jobs and when I pulled the head units out, all the connections were still rock solid.

Ive run into this argument a lot of times, I guess its like wether people like convertibles or coupes.

Really?

I've actually seen very few crimp connections come loose. For the record though, I would rather solder a connection, but not so much on a wire soaked in fuel. I'm also not much on doing it up under a dash or something where the solder could fall down on my and burn my retinas or something. Everything else, solder the fuck out of it.

[Steve85]

Fuel stuff sucks...glad you got it worked out though.

FWIW, I like the heat shrink crimp connectors. Best of both worlds.

I did however discover that when the bolt does finally break free and you deliver a devastating left hook to the swaybar.....the swaybar still wins.

hehe

[.RJ]

Woah, I would never use crimps in a vehicle, due to the vibration they seem to always fall apart, or I could just suck at crimping. A good solder and heat shrink should never fall apart and cant loosen up over time.

Ur doing it wrong. Every connector in your car is a crimped connection - all the little plugs, your ECU connectors, etc, etc.

Soldering can come apart due to vibration and heat as it is brittle - crimping does not have this problem if done properly. Both have their place though, I used plenty of each for the wiring harness on my CB750.

[ViPER1313]

Soldering is a hell of a lot more solid than a wire->wire crimp connection. If the solder joint is brittle or can be pulled apart easily you are doing it incorrectly.

That said, I have never had a problem with any crimp I have done. I usually crimp large wires and solder the smaller stuff just because I don't feel like heating 10 or 8ga wire hot enough to solder it.

[Evan]

Woah, I would never use crimps in a vehicle, due to the vibration they seem to always fall apart, or I could just suck at crimping. A good solder and heat shrink should never fall apart and cant loosen up over time.

Ur doing it wrong. Every connector in your car is a crimped connection - all the little plugs, your ECU connectors, etc, etc.

yeah, by a machine designed for that purpose, not a cheap radio shack crimp barrel and shitty stamped crimper like what most of us have. (or even worse, pliers)

Soldering can come apart due to vibration and heat as it is brittle - crimping does not have this problem if done properly.

if your soldering is brittle, you used too much solder.

I guess the moral of the story is just whatever you do, do it right.

and also, no reason you cant both solder and crimp a connection

(btw, for non stressed wires, tap splices kick ass)

[Goodspeed]

w00t. Its finally back on the road. I couldn't get it to start for two days, ultimately due to 2 blown fuses and a poor crimp off the battery. Big thanks to Ryan, Aaron Z, Paul for the relay and Richard, the Ducati-riding bike mechanic. The idle is a little low (stock FPR?) but it runs and drives fine. I'll keep off the gas until I can install the AFPR.

[.RJ]

yeah, by a machine designed for that purpose, not a cheap radio shack crimp barrel and shitty stamped crimper like what most of us have. (or even worse, pliers)

Dont buy a cheap crimping tool? :dunno:

I've got 2 of 'em, they both work pretty well.

[JustinG]

i just bought a descent set of Klines, they were like $15, my dad said most of the electricians he knows use them so, i just figured why not.

They are put together way better and are heavier than my $3 wal-mart specials.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Or solder lol

[.RJ]

wat?