1995 Mustang SVT Cobra

[Jake]

Nah, Craftsmen are kind of bottom rung when it comes to "nice" tools. I'm just saying if he doesn't feel like dropping $100 on a Craftsmen set, he can borrow mine instead of rounding off 20 year old bolts with a HF set. Trust me, I've been there.

LOL. Talk to DJ and I who almost exclusively use the Harbor Freight stuff. Their color-coded sockets are the bomb.

Car looks great, Chip! Looking forward to seeing it in person at some point, with those new rimzzz. I think you'll find the HPS pads are actually pretty good as an autocross/HPDE 1 type of pad, if you end up using the car for those sort of events ever. If you want a bit more bite, go HPS on the rear and upgrade to HP+ up front. But, for street/mountain driving, your current setup should be a-ok. What fluid are you running in there?

Also, +1 to Vaughn being a cool dude. I ended up chatting with him in his trailer for ~30 minutes during Hyperfest setup while one of his guys was looking for swag to have me set up elsewhere. Super friendly.

[95SVTCobra]

Jake- sorry just saw your question!! I'm running just generic Prestone DOT 3 fluid. I was going to go to DOT 4, but was about to take the trip to Myrtle, and didn't want to risk anything new, especially on brakes.

So I did get the rear end gears installed! The car definitely has a little more pickup, and doesn't show the weight as bad out of corners. I did develop a problem after install though.....looked a little something like this:



Yeah, leaky pinion seal. Took it back, got it all fixed, and she made the trip up just fine! I also swapped out the speedometer gear to correct my speedometer, took around 15 minutes total (thanks Matt Walker for the help!).

She is very happy being in Harrisonburg and is currently hanging out in the garage in North :thumbup:.


Looking foward to the school year!

[95SVTCobra]

4 weeks in....and I think I'm already down a midpipe courtesy of those shiny new skyscraper sized speed bumps in the deck by Showker. Anyway, I was already planning on changing that up into a side exhaust eventually, and it already is insanely loud, so I'm not too worried about it, especially with what I might be planning :twisted:.

So I've been thinking about what I can do to make the car make more power to back up those looks. So I'm starting to lean the route of tearing out the motor, boring the motor over to .306, and then getting a good stroker kit to make it a 347. Probably will be putting in a custom cam as well when it is out. My overall goal for the car is somewhere in the ballpark of 400, which I know won't just happen with a stroker kit. Eventually (money permitting), I would love to put some aluminum heads and a better intake and MAF on the car, but that might have to wait until I have the funds.

I'm really thinking about taking it home and starting this process so that it *might* be ready for the MM show. I know the saying goes "buy once, cry once" so I am going to take however long it needs to do the build right on my budget. My buddy and his dad have an engine shop that builds race engines, so I will be getting the hookup and will be able to wrench on the engine myself, and be under the supervision of someone who knows a thing or two around a small block 302 :thumbup: .

So I guess this post is mostly asking for advice from aluMMni and people who are better informed about stroker kits(*cough* Matt and Sean where you at :lol: *cough*). So feel free to shoot holes in the idea, I really want to plan it well and know what I'm getting into before I put anything into action.

[davej]

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:dunno:

[rherold9]

We'll building it regardless is going to make it unreliable. You have the Rav though so I guess it doesn't matter. Just prepared for shit breaking once you build it. Boost would be the cheaper route then again I don't know how much boost those engines can take so maybe not?

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[95SVTCobra]

Been thinking more about it, and since I still would want to drive the cobra around, perhaps finding a 351w block and building/stroking that engine over time might be a better investment versus pulling the engine out of the car and having to wait and wait and wait. I could also achieve my power figures relatively easy, and as they say, no replacement for displacement

[JustinG]

[JPolen01]

We'll building it regardless is going to make it unreliable.

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That is blatantly untrue. There are plenty of reliable modified cars in real life and even some in this club! Gasp! See the 8 second GTR driven 2000 miles to and from the track. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/12/trailers-losers2000-miles-8-sec-gtr/">http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/12/tra ... 8-sec-gtr/</a><!-- m -->

[rherold9]

I wouldn't call it blatantly untrue I will say I did over generalize. Plenty of cars who become unreliable when built. I'm just saying be prepared for it is all. Some are lucky and some aren't. Just like when you buy a car new you can get lucky and get little to no trouble with maintenance over time then you could get the same car that has way more trouble.

From my experience I've seen a lot more trouble than good on most built cars that's why I generalized.

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[Jake]

Chip, I think your idea of building a different motor outside the car is a better one. That'd let you do everything you wanted to it with no real time constraints, and then you just bring the car home for a weekend and drop the new one in.

[Kaan]

Chip, I think your idea of building a different motor outside the car is a better one. That'd let you do everything you wanted to it with no real time constraints, and then you just bring the car home for a weekend and drop the new one in.

this!

there are some tried and true JY/stroke kit builds that last a long time. but strokers arent known to be 200k mile motors by nature lol.

[95SVTCobra]

Chip, I think your idea of building a different motor outside the car is a better one. That'd let you do everything you wanted to it with no real time constraints, and then you just bring the car home for a weekend and drop the new one in.

this!

Exactly my thinking. Plus, it would allow me more time to build the motor the way it should be built, which is reliably. Ryan, I can see where you are coming from, but if it is built right and no corners cut, it should last, especially the way I mostly drive the car (which is less than 5k miles a year essentially). I was talking to my buddy who is going to help me with the build, and he said I could build a 393 on largely the same budget as building a 347, and make more horsepower and torque, which is always fun. Also, there have been tons of 351's built before, and I can use what they learned and research what parts work the best and give me the best performance and durability, thus (hopefully) increasing longevity and reliability. Finally, this gives me a spare 302 laying around to perhaps throw in a project car down the road :twisted:.

If only it were that easy :lol:, maybe I'll buy one already in a car new from the factory waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay down the road :thumbup:

[Jake]

Sell the spare 302 to Taylor/James/the new guys whose names I can't remember and make a 5.0 Miata

[rherold9]

I'd do the swap as well

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[fiveoh2go]

This + these + this = lots of hurt feelings for waaaay less than a 347 stroker, 351 based mill, or coyote swap.

Don't try and reinvent the wheel.

(K)eep
(I)t
(S)imple
(S)tupid

The further you take the car away from factory stock the more issues you'll have. That is the voice of experience speaking...and questionable Ford build quality from the 90s. :lol:

To me there isn't a nastier sound than that of a cammed pushrod V8 building boost.

[95SVTCobra]

This + these + this = lots of hurt feelings for waaaay less than a 347 stroker, 351 based mill, or coyote swap.

The further you take the car away from factory stock the more issues you'll have. That is the voice of experience speaking...and questionable Ford build quality from the 90s. :lol:

To me there isn't a nastier sound than that of a cammed pushrod V8 building boost.

I see what you are saying. The only thing I am really worried about with going boosted is obviously the intake and the heads that are currently on the engine. They don't flow that great, obviously a cam would help that situation, and I could get a custom cam, but wouldn't this hurt the overall numbers greatly? Plus I just got 3.73 gears, which aren't exactly a great turbo gear, but if it gets tuned right and I get the right turbo, I'm assuming this can be worked around. I'll ask Scott a little more about some good options, I'm just worried about the flow. My overall goal is 400 hp,

[ScottyB]

if anything, boost is a great way to put new life into heads that flow poorly N/A. you're going to make good power on boost, its just a question of how much you want and what sort of spool characteristics you need/can live with for your application.

[fiveoh2go]

My overall goal is 400 hp

WITHOUT the TrickFlow cam installed in your car and using your current 100% stock long block, with the On3 turbo kit dialed in for low boost (5-7psi) combined with a spot-on-tune you'd have to try extremely hard to not make 400rwhp. The factory thin wall 302 block likes to leave the party at around 450-500ish rwhp so do keep that in mind. At 400rwhp you're more than safe. Also, at 400rwhp you're gonna have to address your factory clutch and trans or either granny shift that T5. :lol:

If you only want 400 wheel...I'd just bolt on a Vortech V3 S-trim kit and call it a day. Waaaaay easier install compared to the On3 kit. No oil lines to mess with, no exhaust BS to fab up and cut. The Vortech kit could be installed in an afternoon.

[rherold9]

Supercharge it.

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[95SVTCobra]

The factory thin wall 302 block likes to leave the party at around 450-500ish rwhp so do keep that in mind. At 400rwhp you're more than safe. Also, at 400rwhp you're gonna have to address your factory clutch and trans or either granny shift that T5. :lol:

Yep, heard the stock block the bug out at 475-500. This is why I was thinking about 351, stronger block in general, but, turbo actually looks promising. I would get a cam while I was messing with the engine for sure, it would be a custom grind Comp Cam. Might have to change the valve springs in the head, but we shall cross said bridge when we get there. My friend Brian has the on3 kit, and says it fits like absolute *insert expletive of choice here*. But, no turbo "kit" is a simple bolt on ever lol. Clutch might be on the way out anyway :lol:, those 285s in the back haven't done it any favors. Would without a doubt be addressed when I was working on the engine. I would end up tbh possibly running a single dump by the back axle, so not wanting to mess with exhaust again either haha. The only thing I'm worried about running the turbo route is fuel pump/injectors, tuning, and all the little guages and wideband stuff that make the cost add up. BUT. It is a build. So I expect it to happen, and am prepared for the little expenses that pop up along the way. If I can end up around 420 rwhp up to 450 in that range...AND have a nasty cam? I would be a very happy 302 owner :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: