08-30-2011, 10:53 PM
Newest update is just talks and hopes. I think I will be picking up an aluminum radiator from Peter and a power steering pump from Dj, but both of those are just to acquire the parts as I can't afford to get the rest of the parts I need. I also need rear subframe bushings to remedy that vibration I get from the rear when under acceleration.
I believe one of my front end vibration problems and my increase vibration underbraking is due to a stuck caliper which I will try to remedy by rebuilding it which will be my next project to avoid completley ruining my brand new rotors, which I am probably already to late and I am not sure they can be saved becasue they are drilled/slotted rotors. I think while I have one caliper off, I will remove the others as well and rebuild them also. Some fresh brake fuild and a proper bleed on them and the clutch at the same time should finish the job up nicely. Finding time to do it and extra money incase of a corrosion on any of the pistons especially the fornt left (the one that sticks) is another issue entirely. With any luck, I can get home by the end of september, beginning of october and get it done, and will probably avoid driving the car whenever possible until then.
I also ordered a Yellow Top (the same model I have in the truck) because my car had some starting issues ever since I did the major overhaul on the drivetrain and the car sat for a week. After driving it and then letting it sit 1 to 2 days, it would die again. What I narrowed it down to is actually more interesting than just an old battery which is what I thought it was. It turns out that when you open a door, the trunk light would come on, and then it would not shut off. However if you open the trunk and shut it, the light goes off. Not sure where the issue is coming from here, but rather than have a shut down procedure and mulitiple steps every time I get out of the car, I have disconnected the negative wire from the light for the time being(it was just a spade connector on the light). Not even sure where to begin to troubleshoot this thing but I ordered a new battery anyways because I got it for a good deal, and I am an Optima fanboy. My stock tie down is also shot so this will give me a chance to make one for the optima and have a secure battery. I like a very clean wire setup so I ordered the double post battery and will probably run the stock electronics off the GM side posts. Why the yellow? This will not be my track car so I plan to have a modest sound system(not rediculous like the truck) but I never want to worry about over using the battery. Yes the red top has a better warranty, but knock on wood, my other yellow top is still going srtong and the truck sits for extended periods with no charger connected. The yellow top also has more CCA than the stock or the Aftermarket ones most owners replace them with so I should be fine there as well. The reserve capacity differentiates by about 20 minutes which I really don't get the point in the yellow top line but I wanted to play it safe since I will run a more powerful sound system, electric fans, and probably other little electronics here and there so i waited until I was good and ready to go with an impulse decision and sent the e-mail with the model number on a wim so I wouldn't overthink it. Red Top or Yellow Top, an optima is an optima and it is an upgrade either way.
I believe one of my front end vibration problems and my increase vibration underbraking is due to a stuck caliper which I will try to remedy by rebuilding it which will be my next project to avoid completley ruining my brand new rotors, which I am probably already to late and I am not sure they can be saved becasue they are drilled/slotted rotors. I think while I have one caliper off, I will remove the others as well and rebuild them also. Some fresh brake fuild and a proper bleed on them and the clutch at the same time should finish the job up nicely. Finding time to do it and extra money incase of a corrosion on any of the pistons especially the fornt left (the one that sticks) is another issue entirely. With any luck, I can get home by the end of september, beginning of october and get it done, and will probably avoid driving the car whenever possible until then.
I also ordered a Yellow Top (the same model I have in the truck) because my car had some starting issues ever since I did the major overhaul on the drivetrain and the car sat for a week. After driving it and then letting it sit 1 to 2 days, it would die again. What I narrowed it down to is actually more interesting than just an old battery which is what I thought it was. It turns out that when you open a door, the trunk light would come on, and then it would not shut off. However if you open the trunk and shut it, the light goes off. Not sure where the issue is coming from here, but rather than have a shut down procedure and mulitiple steps every time I get out of the car, I have disconnected the negative wire from the light for the time being(it was just a spade connector on the light). Not even sure where to begin to troubleshoot this thing but I ordered a new battery anyways because I got it for a good deal, and I am an Optima fanboy. My stock tie down is also shot so this will give me a chance to make one for the optima and have a secure battery. I like a very clean wire setup so I ordered the double post battery and will probably run the stock electronics off the GM side posts. Why the yellow? This will not be my track car so I plan to have a modest sound system(not rediculous like the truck) but I never want to worry about over using the battery. Yes the red top has a better warranty, but knock on wood, my other yellow top is still going srtong and the truck sits for extended periods with no charger connected. The yellow top also has more CCA than the stock or the Aftermarket ones most owners replace them with so I should be fine there as well. The reserve capacity differentiates by about 20 minutes which I really don't get the point in the yellow top line but I wanted to play it safe since I will run a more powerful sound system, electric fans, and probably other little electronics here and there so i waited until I was good and ready to go with an impulse decision and sent the e-mail with the model number on a wim so I wouldn't overthink it. Red Top or Yellow Top, an optima is an optima and it is an upgrade either way.
2004 Honda S2000
2001 F-150 4X4 6" lift on 37" tires
2007 GSX-R 600
2008 SX-R 800
1992 (slammed by PO) 240sx Coupe (SOLD)
1999 BMW POS ///M3(SOLD)
1998 Honda Civic EX beater (SOLD)
2001 F-150 4X4 6" lift on 37" tires
2007 GSX-R 600
2008 SX-R 800
1992 (slammed by PO) 240sx Coupe (SOLD)
1999 BMW POS ///M3(SOLD)
1998 Honda Civic EX beater (SOLD)
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