Lee's Watch Thread for MM'ers of Impeccable Taste

[WRXtranceformed]

If you're gonna impulse buy a used watch, you might as well buy it from Lee. 

The truth is I didn't exactly impulse buy it because I'd recently wishlisted a dual time, slide rule Orient: http://amzn.to/2AxSJzz

I was more interested in dual time, but I started doing more research about slide rules and kinda had a nerdgasm. I'm interested in it for all the reasons I stated above and realized the Nighthawk made much better use of it than the Orient. The pre-markings for imperial to metric on distance, volume, and weight are really cool, in my opinion. I'd googled Nighthawks a bit over the last few weeks, but never got serious about. Then, a good deal for one with a crystal sapphire popped up and the rest is history.

If I'm honest, the watch wears better on my wrist than my Tag. I like that watch, but it's 41x16 and feels really tall on my wrist. This watch is 42x13 and the extra width is meaningless given it's shorter and sits flat against the wrist (the Tag is more pill shaped). The weight is solid, but definitely not the heaviest watch I own. Lighter is better for me, so this will likely be for air travel. Mostly. The watch feels way better than what I paid for it, although I will say it kinda has a tinny feel... which actually works with the aircraft theme. I have other watches that feel like lead bricks, so I appreciate this one feels a bit different. Setting this watch is not intuitive AT ALL, in my opinion. You set the plane hand (24 hour hand) with the minutes at crown position 2, then move the regular hour hand by one hour increments in position 1. I'm usually pretty good at intuiting that stuff, but I had to google it. The screw down crown is a nice touch.

I need to add two links, so I'll have to look and see if there's an easy way to do this myself. I don't have time to find a decent shop around here and I loathe jewelry stores, so I won't be wearing it for a bit longer. I'm maxed out on my 10-watch case, so I'll have to demote something to a drawer.

Lastly, I told the wife yesterday "I bought a watch from Lee." Judging from her face, I think she thought that meant I spent a few grand. She didn't really say anything, but when I tried to show it to her tonight she said she'd already taken a peek while it was on the table. I then showed her how to slide rule will help with conversions and she thought that was cool... especially since I always have to do them for her in my head. win/win.

Even with the unsized mock up, you wear it well my friend!  That sapphire reflection tho 

Yes I thought the same thing when initially setting it, although I found it interesting that the GMT Master II has basically the same setting process for its GMT hand.  Having had the alternative method in my Steinhart Ocean Forty-Four where the GMT hand is set independently from a certain crown position, I actually like the Nighthawk/GMT's process better.  While on paper it might seem more convenient to rotate the GMT hand directly, the problem was that the same crown position was also shared by the quick-set date.  So inevitably on that watch every time I went to set the date I would twist the crown the wrong way and accidentally adjust the GMT hand instead of the date.  If you make a mistake and twist it the wrong way on the Nighthawk, it takes a lot less time to readjust the hour hand to where it needs to be.  In fact, the Nighthawk actually has a better quick-set date mechanism than the GMT Master II, as the second crown position on that watch only rotates the hours hand.  So you have to do two full revolutions of the hour hand in order to quick-set the date, vs. just twisting the crown one revolution to advance each day on the Nighthawk.

Man if I was there I could size it for you, but yeah those links are held in by pins so it's really easy to change.  On the back of the bracelet you will notice directional arrows engraved on some of the links.  With a jeweler's "punch", a jeweler's hammer, and a small plastic sizing block, you can knock those pins yourself in a minute or two.  You usually do it on the links closest to the clasp (because a lot of bands/bracelets are tapered from the lug toward the clasp), reinsert a new link and the insert the pin you punched out from the top where you punched it out from in the same direction it was originally inserted.

I bought this kit last year and it's not super high quality or anything but has worked fine for me:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0188BQO7K/ref...=UTF8&th=1  

There is also a cheaper $13 option without the extra spring bars

Or if you can stomach it, any competent jewelry store can do it for you for like $5 or $10.  I would recommend finding a good, dedicated watchmaker in your area.
I can't vouch for this place because I've never used them, but they get really good Google reviews and I bet they have some really cool stuff you could ogle over while they size it for you:  http://www.nesbitswatchservice.com/   Maybe they could also be a good resource for you when you need to get your TAG serviced in the future!

[Apoc]

Lee found a watch guy five blocks from my office, so Imma walk down there later this AM and see what they can do.

Worst case, I'll cross the street from there to the proper jeweler that advertises Brietlings and Rolexes on billboards along my commute.

[WRXtranceformed]

The replacement PRW-3100Y showed up earlier than expected (USPS is running hot right now) and the replacement goes through the manual sync process no problem. In fact, it synced up today at around 4AM, even inside the shipping box! It does appear that some of these are coming with issues with the atomic module from the factory. But all is well now!

[Apoc]

Walked to the shop Lee sent me and this place was a scene straight out of Snatch. In an office building, up an elevator, ring a bell for entry, and get helped by an attractive redhead at a counter while peering through glass at a clean room. I got two links added for a $16.50 and a few minutes of my time. It was more expensive than doing it myself, but who doesn't mind paying a bit extra for instant gratification?

[WRXtranceformed]

Walked to the shop Lee sent me and this place was a scene straight out of Snatch. In an office building, up an elevator, ring a bell for entry, and get helped by an attractive redhead at a counter while peering through glass at a clean room.  I got two links added for a $16.50 and a few minutes of my time. It was more expensive than doing it myself, but who doesn't mind paying a bit extra for instant gratification?

Well played!  Totally worth it to be in good hands.  It's crazy how a lot of the higher end shops are set up, even in the nice areas around Charlotte.  You have to be "buzzed in" to a lot of them if they aren't located in a mall.  

How does it feel now that it's sized properly?

[WRXtranceformed]

The 3100Y is running fantastic and wears super well. I actually used it to check the time of my GMT Master, which is running crazy accurate like 0.5sec / day. One slight issue I had was that the screws holding the band on both sides of the 3100Y were a little rattly when I moved my wrist in certain ways. Normally it probably wouldn't bother me because most metal bracelets have a little jangle to them (except the Rolex) but this just sounded so cheap. I did a little digging and as I suspected, the fit of the screw tube to the metal sleeve was not as close as it was on my last two Protreks. Instead of rolling the dice and sending it back again, I did a little quick surgery:



I took some plumber tape cut to the length of the screw tube, and then cut the tape in half to give it a "coating" of the tape. Anything thicker than that really and it was bunching up and not allowing the screw tube to slide back into the sleeve. After wrapping the tape around the screw tube lengthwise (like rolling a cigarette) and carefully inserting it back in to the collar, no more rattling! Easy fix!

That's way less surgery than Joey is getting started on today though! I won't spoil his update but he should have some exciting stuff with his Seiko "Sea Urchin" project coming

[SlimKlim]

I got all my parts in on Friday and assembled my first custom watch over the weekend. The nickname of the base watch is "Sea Urchin," I'm dubbing this the "Exploring Urchin" with the addition of the dual time bezel.

Full Parts/Spec List

-Seiko SNZF17
-Clockwork Synergy Brown Vintage strap
-Archer Watch brushed stainless 22m buckle
-DLW Ceramic 12-hr "Dual Time" bezel insert
-DLW Black Trek hour & minute hands
-DLW Rose Gold lightning second hand
-Custom painted lettering on the rotor
-Removed bezel "click" ring to allow it to turn both ways silently

The starting point: 



And the end result.












Some mistakes were made, but nothing major and all of them can be chocked up to lessons learned for next time. There is a special protective tape watchmakers use to prevent scratching cases that I'm going to buy before tackling the next project. I also used way, way too much rubber cement on the bezel insert, and I need to go back into this thing and do a better job getting the underside of the crystal perfectly clean and dust free, I'd also like to do another coat of color on the lettering so it has a more even finish.

All-in-all I'm pretty thrilled with the results. The aftermarket parts really dress it up and make it feel a hell of a lot more expensive than it is. Potential future plans are upgrading to the 4R36 movement which would allow me to use this 7s36 as a guinea pig to start learning how to service & repair movements, and I might replace the crown with something that has a more coin-edge finish.

I'm already planning to build another one next month for a coworker that is going to have an aftermarket dial and potentially a bead blasted finish. If anyone is interested in doing something like this, hit me up to chat about it. This particular example cost about $300 all-in, I'd say most of these customized Seikos range from $250-400 in parts, and I can guide you through finding & ordering parts and assemble it for you for you.

[WRXtranceformed]

I love it!!! This turned out so well especially for your first attempt at really doing a full on mod! The rose gold seconds hand is so choice and I'm impressed with the DLW parts

Link me that tape when you get a chance. I have been using blue tape for watch bracelet changes and it works but is not ideal

[SlimKlim]

This is the stuff: https://www.esslinger.com/anti-static-tr...GoQAvD_BwE

I haven't see it in Amazon, probably just going to order a roll of it before I start on my co-worker's build.

[WRXtranceformed]

The Aurora is up for sale! To help fund another bad or completely awesome idea.

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f29/fs-daga...93317.html

[DavidL]

I got all my parts in on Friday and assembled my first custom watch over the weekend. The nickname of the base watch is "Sea Urchin," I'm dubbing this the "Exploring Urchin" with the addition of the dual time bezel.

That is awesome!!!  Great job, finished project is equal parts unique and tasteful.

I might have to hit you up soon... Ive been eyeing bezel replacements on my SKX...

[SlimKlim]

I got all my parts in on Friday and assembled my first custom watch over the weekend. The nickname of the base watch is "Sea Urchin," I'm dubbing this the "Exploring Urchin" with the addition of the dual time bezel.

That is awesome!!!  Great job, finished project is equal parts unique and tasteful.

I might have to hit you up soon... Ive been eyeing bezel replacements on my SKX...

Thanks! I'm down to tackle some SKX mods, just let me know!

[JustinG]

Surprise of a Bday present from the Parental Units.

Miltat Oyster PVD bracelet for my Nixon.

I think it does a good job of dressing up an otherwise pretty rugged looking watch.

[WRXtranceformed]

Surprise of a Bday present from the Parental Units.

Miltat Oyster PVD bracelet for my Nixon.

I think it does a good job of dressing up an otherwise pretty rugged looking watch.

Nice gift from the parents!  That finish of the bracelet matches the case really nicely!  Man that watch is crazy thick, or maybe it's just the angle from that close up.  It's crazy how they designed the lugs to drop down so low off of the case.

I've got something coming from MiLTAT as well for a new, top secret project 

[JustinG]

She's thick, but that angle isn't doing it any favors.

The stock silicone band is pretty bulky, so that may explain the lug placement?

I really wish I could get my hands on the factory black Metal band for this thing, but they only sell it with the watch at the moment.

[Ryan T]

Someone posted about a free Motive watch a page or so ago, just had to pay shipping. I ordered it back on like December 9th or whenever and thought it was never going to show up, but it came in today and all the packaging was written in Chinese except my address. I paid a whopping $7 for it, total. It’s fair, the band is actually higher quality than the free Alba watch from Jomashop that Joey and I got. I’m not crazy about the marble design on the face, but whatever. It’s quieter than the Alba at least. Here’s the 3 newest additions; the Alba from Jomashop, the Citizen Nighthawk from my wife and the free Motive.



Lee, you may have some insight on this. The band on my Nighthawk squeaks sometimes, like metal on metal rubbing squeak. Did you ever have that issue? Any easy solutions?

[WRXtranceformed]

Lee, you may have some insight on this. The band on my Nighthawk squeaks sometimes, like metal on metal rubbing squeak. Did you ever have that issue? Any easy solutions?

Collection looking great amigo!  Umm that is odd about the bracelet, mine did not have the squeaking sound.  Where does it come from, the middle of the bracelet or near the clasp?

Speaking of Nighthawks, apparently Citizen released a blue dial version recently!  I caught a glimpse in Costco today:

[WRXtranceformed]

My next project watch is on the horizon!  The base arrived last week before I left for VA for the holidays, I got a great deal on a BNIB one from the WUS forums.  This may or may not get a lot of love here because it isn't everyone's taste, but I am obsessed with the style and it's an itch I had to scratch.  Meet the start of Project Two Tone:

Seiko SRP775 "Turtle"


The SRP775 is the modern remake of the vintage 6309 that I picked up a while back.  It's a great base for a project watch because parts are reasonably plentiful, I'm familiar with the 4R movement in it as I had one swapped into my SKX project and it runs amazingly, and although there are all stainless versions of the SRP, the 775 has a lot of gold tone touches that make it perfect for a two tone build.  I also think it will be cool to have a "new and old" Seiko Turtle. 

My curiosity for two tone watches (gold / stainless) goes back a long way actually.  The two tone GMT Master II was actually the first Rolex to come on my radar a while back after seeing a few of them in the wild and on a relative at my grandfather's wake at the Chevy Chase Club in DC.  I decided against it though for my recent purchase because a) it was way more expensive) and b) I was worried it wouldn't be as versatile.  But I got the inspiration for a cheaper, high quality Seiko two tone build after seeing these two mod projects:

(technically this is a bronze watch)



More on my mod choices in a minute.  My initial impressions of the SRP are:

- Dial is awesome, love the gold accents
- Bezel action is flawless
- Lume is like a torch, like most Seikos
- The movement winds nicely but the crown is a little jiggly and cheap feeling when unscrewed.  My SKX crown and stem don't do this.
- The bracelet feels fine and the clasp is the same good OEM with diver's extension, but the pin and collar link sizing system is the stupidest ever conceived

I have sized a LOT of bracelets at this point and I have to say whoever thought this system was a good idea is a complete moron.  Basically you have a thin pin and you have to put a TINY collar around the end to secure it.  I didn't realize this when I was removing the pins when sizing it and nearly lost the collars (they are smaller than a grain of rice) but found them instead stuck around the end of my punch.  Here is what they look like:


Stupid collars stuck at the bottom of my punch:



I gave up trying to size it after the link pins kept giving out because I couldn't secure the collars.  Good thing I planned on losing the bracelet anyway! More pics of the watch:






So my plans for this one are to clean up the overall style and give it more premium parts.  I've already got a bunch of parts coming from all over the world from a few vendors I've bought from during the last Seiko project:

From Yobokies (Hong Kong):
- the gold seconds hand from my two inspiration pics (same style as the one I chose on the SKX project)
- a black Kanji date and black day wheel (pricey and fairly hard to source but a super stealth choice touch)

From LCBI (US):
- Seiko-style lumed ceramic bezel insert seen in the second inspiration pic

From One Second Closer (Poland):
- Gold "coin edge" bezel seen in both inspiration pics
- Gold chapter ring seen in both inspiration pics

From DLW (Singapore or something?):
- Double domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective (thicker than Yobokies, it should fill the gap between the crystal and bezel insert better than my SKX project)

From Strapcode (somewhere in Asia):
- the coup de grace:  a completely outlandish, old-manish two tone super jubilee bracelet with upgraded two tone submariner style clasp:



I also picked up a leather strap with gold bracelet and matching stitching on Amazon:


So a lot of moving parts here but I've been down this road before...Joey and I have been talking about it and it would be a great business idea to consolidate all of these vendors into one reseller here in the states so you don't have to wait months at a time for parts or go to like 6 different vendors to build the watch you envision in your head.  But it should be fun to wear in the meantime when I want to flash it up a bit 

[WRXtranceformed]

Slowly coming together! The slow boat was slightly less slow this time around:




Black JDM date wheels are expensive for such small things but such a choice touch

Mock up of coin edge bezel and chapter ring

Mock up with LCBI bezel insert (this one is scratched, vendor is sending me a new one)


OSC's stuff is such crazy high quality. Even the bezel ball grooves underneath are perfectly machined


Bracelet will be here Monday, sapphire has landed somewhere in the US. Hopefully will get the whole project in the mail to North East Watch Works by the end of January!

[WRXtranceformed]

More progress...Bracelet came in!









I should have ordered from Strapcode a long time ago. This thing is crazy high quality and MUCH easier to size than the OEM bracelet. The two tone jubilee with matching two tone Submariner style clasp is completely outlandish and I love it. I can't wait to see the rest of this come together!

I also went ahead and ordered an eBay leather strap for my wedding watch since it wasn't getting much wrist time lately:




The bit of bad news I got last night was that the owner of IWW (company I sent my vintage Seiko off to for restoration) has been really sick and his watchmaker had to go back to Argentina to settle his family's affairs. He's got a backlog right now of almost 200 watches, so it could be a really long time before I see that one again. I'm going to reach out to him again in a few months and if he hasn't gotten to mine I'll probably start searching for someone else to do the work. I'd hate to do it though because he's one of the best.

Side note, while I was up in Leesburg over the holidays we went to the Uudvar Hazy center to see Star Wars. We went a little early and as I was looking around (and geeking out over the SR71 and Discovery) I came across this:



This is one reason I love horology and timepieces so much. Time is so important to all of us, but for these guys having an accurate timekeeping instrument was literally the razor's edge between life and death.