F250 Project

[HAULN-SS]

Pretty sure my thread got deleted..at least I couldnt find it in a 20 second search.

So last post in the old thread was about how I thought my transmission shit a brick. Turns out, these trucks barfing up their fluid is all commonplace. I verified this with at least 2 in person accounts of the same thing happening, and multitude of diesel forum people whining about it.

The good news is, it's not fatal. The front seal apparently gets hot, and malleable. The guy at the transmission shop told me that the pressure in a transmission basically doubles in reverse..I'll take his word for it I reckon. Anyway, this explains the massive leak I had when backing the camper in after a haul.

So I got them to put fluid and a filter in it, and I ordered a big ass 25 row transmission cooler that is made for the 6.0 diesel trucks, and had them retrofit it in place of the 7 row, tiny cooler that was stock. Guys on the forums talk about this knocking 50 degrees off fluid temps under load.

If this patch of a fix doesnt hold up too long I'm not too worried about it. It shifts firm, and doesn't leak for the moment. In the event I have to get another transmission in the near future, I'd be doing the cooler upgrade anyway, so really I'm just out the fluid/filter/little bit of labor. Took 10 quarts of fluid, btw..at like 9$ a quart

[HAULN-SS]

Cybermonday deal calls for some oontz: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.amazon.com/Sony-XA">http://www.amazon.com/Sony-XA</a><!-- m -->​V64BT-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B007J​CNO78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353​944432&sr=8-1&keywords=sony+xav


Seemed like a decent deal for a bluetooth deck. I might end up buying another one for the SS if this one works nicely. Looks like minimal dash hacking required. I use the truck primarily for longer trips, so I think some upgrades were in order - probably going to do some work on the speakers next.

[HAULN-SS]

Just got around to putting some speakers in the truck. Super easy job on these. I was kind of dreading removing the door panels but it turns out they are super easy and only require two bolts.

The speakers I put in are kicker 6x8" that said they would require modification on crutchfield, but they screwed right in with no dremel work or new screw holes or anything. Vast improvement on the sound quality. The stock speakers im pretty sure were cardboard cones and about dry rotted out

[HAULN-SS]

So I just got off the phone with the shop near me. I was having them diagnose some bad shimmy I have in the steering wheel at highway speeds like 65-70mph. Secondly, there is a problem where if you have to really jam on the brakes, it was pulling to one side. Well the girl just called me back and gave me a $1700 quote to "replace the brakes" because "the calipers are locked up"

Well, this all sounds suspicious to me on many levels, because
1) I've never heard of multiple calipers siezing at the same time, and if so, what could possibly be causing that? I think that yes, maybe one of them could be locked up, explaining the pulling when jamming on the brakes hard

2) The vibration is NOT when I am putting on the brakes, it's just when going down the road. Could a stuck caliper be causing that?

3) $1700 sounds ludicrous to me because I just priced all 4 corners with loaded calipers and new rotors for like $400

I am about to go over there and pick the thing up, and get their official estimate/diagnosis. That being said, I was really hoping if it was a brake job, to just have them do it, but I'm not about to pay that kind of money for it.

Does anyone/DJ know of a garage/or lift for rent to do this job? It's a real pain in the ass for me work on this truck because it sits so high my jack barely can get it off the ground, and the jack stands are rated at 2 tons. I have a portable compressor if anyone wants to loan me space and/or a hand?

[D_Eclipse9916]

I don't have a big enough garage unfortunately but throw me a price if you just want it done. If I were you just get some blocks of wood to help out the jack, and buy some harbor freight $49 6 ton jack stands. I can't fit my own diesel truck in my garage,.. Ugh, garage is 21ft while truck is 21ft 8inches

[HAULN-SS]

[ViPER1313]

Bills like that prove once again why I do all work on my cars in the comfort of my own garage. Rockauto has a full 4-wheel pad and rotor kit for $200. The rotors they used better be made out of silver

[HAULN-SS]

yeah - i was just about to post the rockauto prices on all the components..calipers and everything comes to about $500 after core charges are factored in and that INCLUDES shipping. I'm probably going to scour ebay and find the same stuff for free shipping (This is what i did with the MCSS).

Also, after talking with the guy, I'm pretty sure they are trying to do an extra screw job. He said something along the lines of "you could probably just do the fronts for now" which makes me think that it's really probably only the right front caliper, and pads that actually need to be replaced. I kind of doubt the rotors are even in bad shape because there is no vibration in the pedal, it's just pulling hard. I think doing front calipers, pads, and maybe rotors is all I'm going to do and see where she stands.

[HAULN-SS]

Well, I went to advance yesterday and bought everything to do the front rotors, calipers and pads. Think my total cost out of pocket was $300. I could've gotten it cheaper if i had ordered online, but I got inspired to just knock the job out yesterday. Also had to spend $20 on a 6lb hammer, because my 2lb hammer wasn't making the rotor move at all, that was seized to the hub. The must have been original rotors - were in really shitty shape. The vibration seems to have gone away, but theres still a slight pull to the left on braking. Perhaps that is the rears still needing to be done that is causing that? Perhaps it always did that and I just never noticed? Either way, it wasn't near as bad as before.

[Senor_Taylor]

The rears are drums, right? Would rear drums ever be off enough to pull?

[D_Eclipse9916]

The rears are drums, right? Would rear drums ever be off enough to pull?

Read above

[HAULN-SS]

Trying to track down why this thing has lost cruise control. There's a brake module under the master cylinder that I replaced today, because it was like $25 and really easy. That did not fix the problem, so ended up being a waste but the internet lead me to believe it was worth doing because apparently there is a recall that caused these trucks to burn up due to those modules shorting out. Not sure if mine was ever done - I need to check the records.

Spent a couple hours today chasing down various fuses and switches to make sure none of them look obviously screwed up, but didn't find anything. Have a post on the powerstroke forums to figure it out.

[ViPER1313]

If it's like my old Taurus, there are 2x switches under the dash on the brake pedal arm that register when the brake pedal is being depressed. One of them was out of adjustment, making the cc inoperative. Make sure both of them are switching when the pedal is being depressed.

[HAULN-SS]

How could you tell exactly? There's definitely some kind of thing attached to the brake pedal lever, and that thing can kind of wiggle around if you move it with your hand. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be solidly on there, or made to move, or what.

[ViPER1313]

With a multimeter. When you do not press the pedal the switch should be 100% closed or open, when you press the pedal it should be the opposite. Looking online, your truck might have a cruise control switch right on top of the master cylinder, testing is the same. Your year truck might be included in the Ford cc switch fire recall / not had it done. The fix for that was to install an inline fuse near the CC switch under the hood, so if that switch shorts you would need to replace the switch and inline fuse.

[HAULN-SS]

yeah I was digging through some shit online too - seems like something that you would think would be easy to find, but there seems to be a lot of fail points and people just throw parts at it. I am going to check next time im under the hood to see if I Have an inline fuse. I am kind of leaning toward that since I already replaced the switch at the MC. All the fuses under the hood were good, i didnt check under the dash fuses yet.

[HAULN-SS]

Checked that inline fuse today, that is just before the brake sensor on the MC. It was a 2 amp blade fuse - did not look like it was in blown. Im starting to wonder if it's the switch gone bad on the steering wheel maybe?

[HAULN-SS]

actually, i just now got it fixed. that recall fix apparently had two inline fuses in it, one further down the line. It literally looks like some shit a 6th grader spliced in there..can't believe that was a dealership fix

[HAULN-SS]

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://winchester.craigslist.org/cto/4933648849.html">http://winchester.craigslist.org/cto/4933648849.html</a><!-- m -->

Collin's loss is my gain. Truck isnt perfect but its crazy how high diesels are selling for these days. Price is negotiable. I had to just take a guess based on landing somewhere in the middle of what i see on ebay. 1% finders fee if you send me a buyer. I just need to sell it so I can enable myself to buy my next good idea.

[HAULN-SS]

So this is still technically for sale, but I quit pushing it because after I got it cleaned up and stuff, I had a few loads to haul around, and some household shit to get done so I haven't had time to deal with people too much. Got a random trade + cash offer today for a Land Cruiser. I've actually always kind of liked them..anyone know anything about them? Here's that guys ad:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/5004031167.html">http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/ ... 31167.html</a><!-- m -->

High miles, but its a yota, right? seems well maintained. If he'd throw like 6 on top I might take him up on the deal after I do some research on these things.

Edit: nevermind..no locking diffs, no care