11-18-2015, 04:49 PM
So I've had this idea of cobbling together a racing simulator setup on a shoestring budget for quite a while now, and kinda like when you go down a weird-porn rabbit hole, I got to the point where I wasn't going to be able to get it out of my head until I bought the goddamn thing and gave myself some release, even if I regretted it later.
My initial idea was to build a decent PC that could support 3 monitors and build a dedicated rig in the basement so I could play it without irritating Lauren, but because I don't have much PC equipment to speak of I was looking at at least $1200 no matter how I sliced it. So I decided to throw something together to work with my PS4 and if I end up getting really into it I can always go nuts later on.
Anyway, it all started when DJ had 2 1/2 black E36 seats taking up space in his garage that he couldn't get someone to buy. Most of it was trashed, but one of the front seats was in decent shape, just a bit dirty, so I took the torn up shit to the dump for him and kept the decent one for myself.
I gave it a decent cleaning, and stuck it on some 3" heavy duty furniture casters with brakes. Then I bought an AC-to-DC power converter for $18 that outputs 12V @ 7.5A, snipped the car plug off of it and soldered it to the power leads for the seat so I can adjust the height and angle just by plugging it into the wall.
![[Image: 6FNzj4V.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/6FNzj4V.jpg)
Selecting a wheel became far, far more complicated and expensive than I expected, largely thanks to planned obsolescence fuckery from Sony. Basically, the darling budget-friendly choice of most sim racers, the Logitech G27, is not an option for PS4 users because the PS4 has some little piece of software that requires a chip in the controller which the G27 does not have. The G29 does, but it is essentially the exact same model as the G27 with a $260 price hike. Because fuck you, video gamer.
There's a company that makes a converter to get around the software chip but after shipping and getting a wired controller that it needs to work properly you're spending over $100 for it and the end result isn't going to be very good because it's filtering your inputs through a regular controller with some sort of black magic coding.
So my two options simmered down to dropping $460 for the G29 + Shifter (because it comes with a clutch pedal but no shifter standard?!?), which I couldn't make myself do on principal because it's just a $200 G27 with a special chip in it, OR I could go for the $350 Thrustmaster T300RS, which is widely regarded as the best sim wheel for the price, but it doesn't include a clutch or shifter, because that's a $250 add-on, why wouldn't it be.
After reading some reviews I went for the T300RS because if this does become a big hobby for me, I shouldn't ever need to upgrade the unit itself because it also works with PC, and I can get different wheels, a shifter, and a different pedal box if I want, so there's "room to grow".
Now I just needed something to bolt it too. I looked at some cheap, <$100 ready-made wheel stands but I really didn't like the bulkyness of them and it seemed like you really needed to spend $150+ to get something decent. I poked around to see what other people did, and PVC seems to be a favorite construction material for it's price, lightness, ease of assembly and relative strength. So I got about 40ft of PVC, plenty of fittings, some PVC solvent cement, a 2x2 piece of particle board, some furniture grippers and a nifty racheting cutter tool to easily cut it down to size.
I started by putting together a basic frame with a raised support for the pedal box that could be hinged up for storage.
![[Image: HV3pOh2.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/HV3pOh2.jpg)
Then cut the particle board to size and made mounting points for the wheel/pedals.
![[Image: f6vsuQO.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/f6vsuQO.jpg)
This sort of worked but it was rickety and slid away from me every time I hit the brakes, even with furniture grippers on the bottom of it. So I added 2 horizontal crossbars for strength and made two braces to come off the pedals and rest against the TV stand.
![[Image: sZSB0iF.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/sZSB0iF.jpg)
There's still a little bit of flex in it, but it's not really noticeable when you're actually playing, and I still haven't glued it all together. I think the cement will help give it some rigidity in those t-fittings on the sides of the base, which seems to be the only place it wiggles. I might also try flipping the rear verticals so the horizontal bar is a little closer to the base and see if that makes it a bit stronger before I glue it all up.
But, that's pretty much that! Getting the wheel properly configured for the game is a lot more trial and error and math than I expected it would be, but someone pointed me to this site with specific configuration profiles for every car in the game as well as recommended global FFB settings and I've got it to a point where I'm pretty happy with it.
I'm doing a career campaign in a cute little Renault touring car with a penchant for ridiculous lift-off oversteer. The FFB is more convincing than I expected it would be. You can genuinely feel the tires go light over a crest or that disappointing scrubbing feeling of understeer.
I've also dicked around with some of the really high powered cars and decided that my brain isn't fast enough for even a digital F1 car yet (I hit the brakes for a corner when I think it's time and come to a full stop 100ft from the apex), and an Ariel Atom V8 on the Nurburgring is really scary. :lol:
When I get some time on a weekend I'm gonna throw a coat of black paint on my little stand so it doesn't look quite so ghetto, and zip tie my wires a little bit so I don't freak out any cord nazis that visit the house.
If you have a PS3/Xbox 360/Decent PC lying around, add a G27 to your Christmas list and I highly doubt you'll regret it. If you've already thrown out your older console in favor of one of the Xbone or PSwhore, you're kinda screwed into buying a more expensive one like I was but hey, for $350 I can race a digital car in my underwear on a saturday morning and crash as much as I want to. Hell of a lot cheaper than a real track habit. :thumbup:
My initial idea was to build a decent PC that could support 3 monitors and build a dedicated rig in the basement so I could play it without irritating Lauren, but because I don't have much PC equipment to speak of I was looking at at least $1200 no matter how I sliced it. So I decided to throw something together to work with my PS4 and if I end up getting really into it I can always go nuts later on.
Anyway, it all started when DJ had 2 1/2 black E36 seats taking up space in his garage that he couldn't get someone to buy. Most of it was trashed, but one of the front seats was in decent shape, just a bit dirty, so I took the torn up shit to the dump for him and kept the decent one for myself.
I gave it a decent cleaning, and stuck it on some 3" heavy duty furniture casters with brakes. Then I bought an AC-to-DC power converter for $18 that outputs 12V @ 7.5A, snipped the car plug off of it and soldered it to the power leads for the seat so I can adjust the height and angle just by plugging it into the wall.
![[Image: 6FNzj4V.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/6FNzj4V.jpg)
Selecting a wheel became far, far more complicated and expensive than I expected, largely thanks to planned obsolescence fuckery from Sony. Basically, the darling budget-friendly choice of most sim racers, the Logitech G27, is not an option for PS4 users because the PS4 has some little piece of software that requires a chip in the controller which the G27 does not have. The G29 does, but it is essentially the exact same model as the G27 with a $260 price hike. Because fuck you, video gamer.
There's a company that makes a converter to get around the software chip but after shipping and getting a wired controller that it needs to work properly you're spending over $100 for it and the end result isn't going to be very good because it's filtering your inputs through a regular controller with some sort of black magic coding.
So my two options simmered down to dropping $460 for the G29 + Shifter (because it comes with a clutch pedal but no shifter standard?!?), which I couldn't make myself do on principal because it's just a $200 G27 with a special chip in it, OR I could go for the $350 Thrustmaster T300RS, which is widely regarded as the best sim wheel for the price, but it doesn't include a clutch or shifter, because that's a $250 add-on, why wouldn't it be.
After reading some reviews I went for the T300RS because if this does become a big hobby for me, I shouldn't ever need to upgrade the unit itself because it also works with PC, and I can get different wheels, a shifter, and a different pedal box if I want, so there's "room to grow".
Now I just needed something to bolt it too. I looked at some cheap, <$100 ready-made wheel stands but I really didn't like the bulkyness of them and it seemed like you really needed to spend $150+ to get something decent. I poked around to see what other people did, and PVC seems to be a favorite construction material for it's price, lightness, ease of assembly and relative strength. So I got about 40ft of PVC, plenty of fittings, some PVC solvent cement, a 2x2 piece of particle board, some furniture grippers and a nifty racheting cutter tool to easily cut it down to size.
I started by putting together a basic frame with a raised support for the pedal box that could be hinged up for storage.
![[Image: HV3pOh2.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/HV3pOh2.jpg)
Then cut the particle board to size and made mounting points for the wheel/pedals.
![[Image: f6vsuQO.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/f6vsuQO.jpg)
This sort of worked but it was rickety and slid away from me every time I hit the brakes, even with furniture grippers on the bottom of it. So I added 2 horizontal crossbars for strength and made two braces to come off the pedals and rest against the TV stand.
![[Image: sZSB0iF.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/sZSB0iF.jpg)
There's still a little bit of flex in it, but it's not really noticeable when you're actually playing, and I still haven't glued it all together. I think the cement will help give it some rigidity in those t-fittings on the sides of the base, which seems to be the only place it wiggles. I might also try flipping the rear verticals so the horizontal bar is a little closer to the base and see if that makes it a bit stronger before I glue it all up.
But, that's pretty much that! Getting the wheel properly configured for the game is a lot more trial and error and math than I expected it would be, but someone pointed me to this site with specific configuration profiles for every car in the game as well as recommended global FFB settings and I've got it to a point where I'm pretty happy with it.
I'm doing a career campaign in a cute little Renault touring car with a penchant for ridiculous lift-off oversteer. The FFB is more convincing than I expected it would be. You can genuinely feel the tires go light over a crest or that disappointing scrubbing feeling of understeer.
I've also dicked around with some of the really high powered cars and decided that my brain isn't fast enough for even a digital F1 car yet (I hit the brakes for a corner when I think it's time and come to a full stop 100ft from the apex), and an Ariel Atom V8 on the Nurburgring is really scary. :lol:
When I get some time on a weekend I'm gonna throw a coat of black paint on my little stand so it doesn't look quite so ghetto, and zip tie my wires a little bit so I don't freak out any cord nazis that visit the house.
If you have a PS3/Xbox 360/Decent PC lying around, add a G27 to your Christmas list and I highly doubt you'll regret it. If you've already thrown out your older console in favor of one of the Xbone or PSwhore, you're kinda screwed into buying a more expensive one like I was but hey, for $350 I can race a digital car in my underwear on a saturday morning and crash as much as I want to. Hell of a lot cheaper than a real track habit. :thumbup:
Now: 07 Porsche Cayman S | 18 VW Tiguan
Then: 18 VW GTI Autobahn | 95 BMW M3 | 15 VW GTI SE | 12 Kia Optima SX | 2009 VW GTI | 00 BMW 540i Sport | 90 Mazda Miata | 94 Yamaha FZR600R | 1993 Suzuki GS500E | 2003 BMW 325i | 95 Saab 900S