OH NO! TEH VAN ESPLODE!

[Jeff]

Or at least that is what it sounded like as the bolt broke loose! I drove it to work Sunday morning, stopped at the door, unloaded my tools, and went to start it to pull it to a parking spot. After a loud pinging noise as it started the engine came to a sudden grinding halt and the starter would sling out but not even try to start it. Engine was locked up, could not turn the crank with a ratchet. So I towed it home, put it on a lift, and yanked the tranny. Freakin torque converter bolt came out and became lodged between the flexplate (does what a flywheel does, but automatic style) and the block. The flexplate is fubar and the sheilds that go between the engine and transmission look like shredded tin cans. So, with about $80 and 4 hours I outta have it back on the road :roll:

I'll post pics of the carnage, it did quite a number on it.

[WRXtranceformed]

Jeff, you're going to need to make sure the van is OFF when you're giving out Free Candy. Projectile car parts lodged in little childrens' skulls is the worst kind of press we can get for Madison Motorsports.

[JustinG]

haha good call lee.....

[Chris]

for how you described it, $80 doesn't sound too bad. Sorry to hear though.

[Nick325is]

A few hours later and some busted knuckles the Free Candy van had its tranny removed and its problems fixed.

Thats the 2nd time I have helped do a turbo dodge tranny and hopefully the last for awhile.



-Nick

[Goodspeed]

Free Candy passed me tonite on Bluestone Dr. The BOV venting sound coming from that van was quite something to behold.

[Jeff]

That was the PTC before I hit the Elementary school.

But yeah, we got her all fixed up. In and out in 6 hours taking our time. Once I find my cam I will put up pics of the flexplate. It is really something to see. It brok away from the crank first off. So the crank and the transmission were not actually attached...and this was the case for over 1000 miles. The vibration from this caused the bolt to wander out which caused the final failure. It was pretty crazy. But as far as I can tell she is running good and leak free.

[Jeff]

A few hours later and some busted knuckles the Free Candy van had its tranny removed and its problems fixed.

Thats the 2nd time I have helped do a turbo dodge tranny and hopefully the last for awhile.



-Nick

That was your last AUTOMATIC tranny for awhile... in a few weeks your bitch ass is gonna be hoisting the mighty A555 Getrag into the Daytona.

[ziich]

so... is this thing capable of big smokey burnouts like the one in your avatar?

[Jeff]

so... is this thing capable of big smokey burnouts like the one in your avatar?

With the right mods, of course :wink:. I mean, factory boost peak is 7psi. I can only get that for about 5 seconds when I punch it at a high gear above 35mph. I mean, that is mostly due to the fact that it is an automatic. The Van in the pic might be a 5-speed. Right now it feels like driving a big v6. FWD Performance sells an ECU that works with all the stock equipment but bumps it up to 14psi, retards the timing, and it has a different set of wastegate tables so it spools quicker. With that ECU I could have 14psi in first gear, not possible with OEM computer and boost control. I could also go the cheaper route and get a manual boost controller, up it to the OEM computer's limit of 14psi and hope for the best. I want to intercool it and uncork the exhaust first, those are the biggest bang for your buck upgrades. I am kinda poor right now so I am gonna leave the terd stock until I make some $$$. So it is no threat to anything...yet.

[karmapolice]

I would pay money to see the face of some ricer when that van blow past someone with the blow off valve going off.

[Jeff]

FUArK!!!!! My freakin power door locks and mirrors don't work right? Tore the whole damn interior apart, all the doors, the dash bottom, all of it. All the wiring is strait, the actuatiors work when manual power is applied, the switches pass the tests...why does it not work???!?!?!?!?! Like a dumbass I forgot to look at the obvious shit first. The wire loom that goes between the driver's door and the body was wrapped in electrical tape....not OEM tape. I touched it and sparks flew everywhere. Every single wire was dry rotted and broken... I have a lot of soldering and taping ahead of me.

[ScottyB]

i was kind of hoping you were going to pull a Boobies and use an electric drill to work your windows. oh well, there are plenty of busted piles in this club so there's still hope :lol:

glad your Free Candy is at least running...strong?...again. you've got alot of pretty wild projects!

[Jeff]

Rewired the drivers side, PDLs and mirrors work great!!! Until you open the pass side door. Yeah, blows kock. I gotta pull the wiring on the other side and redo it as well, apparently there is a short over there as well.

[Jeff]

OK, trans is back in (again) and working great!!! YAY! There was a bur in the dowel pin hole on the rear and the engine and transmission did not come together flush. This caused it to break its second flexplate. Look for it around H-burg....yellow MMs on the back.

[Jeff]

Well, its broken again. Over the last two weekends I have done the following...

-New axles, both sides
-New ball joint (right side)
-New Axel shaft seals
-Changed back to Dino oil...ooo...I love having oil pressure!
-Installed remote start/keyless entry/hatch pop/turbo timer
-XM Radio, Pioneer deck, and Infinity Reference speakers

I was attempting to add "new right side wheel bearing" to the list when...well...I fucked up. Now I have to go pick it up on Monday after the guys at the shop press it in for me. The tool required to do it with the steering knuckle in the car has 14 pieces....I could only find one of those 14. I attempted to use it anyway, got the bearing pushed out about 1/4 inch then the tool failed. So now I can't push it back in or push it out...so I had to leave it for the trained pros.

But anyway...soon to come...

Class III/IV trailer hitch!!! (WOO HOO $25!)
Poly Sway-Bar bushings
Window Tint
Ghettobanging subs.....