Racecar prep 101

[.RJ]

Mine arent taped.

They're also not exposed

Section 15.15 of the NASA CCR:

15.15 Lights
All non-formula cars must have at least one (1) operating red brake light visible from the
rear of the car, unless otherwise stated as optional (or prohibited) by the specific class
rules. All formula cars should have a red tail light. All cars must have at least one
functioning red taillight, red brake light, and adequate headlights when competing in
night races. Except during night races, all lights must be covered with tape. Brake lights shall not be covered with tape or have their function altered or purposely hindered in any
way.

[Evan]

Mine arent taped.

They're also not exposed

Section 15.15 of the NASA CCR:

15.15 Lights
All non-formula cars must have at least one (1) operating red brake light visible from the
rear of the car, unless otherwise stated as optional (or prohibited) by the specific class
rules. All formula cars should have a red tail light. All cars must have at least one
functioning red taillight, red brake light, and adequate headlights when competing in
night races. Except during night races, all lights must be covered with tape. Brake lights shall not be covered with tape or have their function altered or purposely hindered in any
way.

the parking lights/ blinkers are exposed.
Is that a new rule change? When I read the CCR it said taping lights was recommended. I was planning on vinyling them anyway for the bling factor :-p

[.RJ]

I have some gold vinyl.......

[.RJ]

Alright, more fiascos...... catch can installed, sort of - pending a more permanent mounting solution than zip ties Took over 2 hours because work space on the backside of the engine is so damn tight.

Also, the PCV is removed, and its port on the manifold is capped off - no longer needed here





Where do those 2 lines go? Well, they go to the back of the block - what you do is remove the stock oil separator box shown here:



And you remove the 2 hex-head plugs, the one on the left is removed



And install these port things, and run the lines to them



The can drains on the bottom back to one of the lines, with a T

[Mike]

better you than me... why are you using a fram?

[.RJ]

Thats the spare engine on the ground

[ViPER1313]

How much benefit is there to installing a catch can on an N/A car? Is the little bit of gunk in the intake that large of a deal??

[.RJ]

Any oil in the intake is bad - for a street car I wouldnt worry about it, but for a track car its a bad thing - IMO.

I've also got a blowby problem - the engine needs to be torn down, but I'd rather not lose any power with oily intake mess.

[BLINGMW]

Is the little bit of gunk in the intake that large of a deal??

That's pretty much what I was thinking. It's just going to burn it up, and besides, how else am I going to keep my spark plugs oiled! :lol: But this sounds more like a complex duct tape solution in RJ's case, so game on.

[Jeff]

catch can... no turbo...lol Love you so much RJ!!! Anytime you need some boost I will let you drive the Tona...she is gonna be done o so soon. Yes...feeling tired and CRAZYS!

[.RJ]

I'm suprised you guys dont see a problem without having a catch can on a track car. On the VTEC engines, you need 2 (!) catch cans (one like i've routed, and another through added vents in the valve cover).

[PDenbigh]

Looks good man! :thumbup:

[Apoc]

It's clear the folks talking about a catch can on an NA car don't race. Granted my track car is 20 years old but I've overflowed my catch can before. I don't empty it all the time but there's enough every weekend that not having one would be a mistake.

real world experience > *

[Jeff]

The line on mine comes from the back of the valve cover, thought the PCV, and around under a bunch of stuff and back up to the lover airbox input. So, in effect there is a connection between intake mani pressure (low, at the airbox) and the PCV valve. The bottom of the airbox will fill with oil (over a long long time) with the stock setup. So when I connect my catch can to my turbo pile I need to remove the PCV (??) and connect that line to the catch can input then take the second line and connect it back to the vac main on the intake manifold. Is this right? Anyone set me strait on that? Oh and yes, I don't have any real world experience. I am a freakinÔÇÖ retard about cars :roll: Only the people with track cars are cool enough to know anything.

[Mike]

Only the people with track cars are cool enough to know anything.

regarding what is actually needed for a race car? yes.

[.RJ]

PCV/Breather/Catch can setups on turbos are different, I think in their routing - I really cant quite figure out how its supposed to go. Probably a good thing I dont have a turbo if I cant even figure that one out

Only the people with track cars are cool enough to know anything.

When you run a car hard on track, there's all sorts of things that you need to do to keep the car reliable and trouble free that you wouldnt think about doing on a street car.

[Jeff]

Only the people with track cars are cool enough to know anything.

Sorry, it was pent up anger from another thread. I as of late have been feeling spoken down too.

I need to look into the catch can business a little more. The only one I have ever done was on an SRT-4 and I'm not ever sure we got it right. Their oil goes into the bottom of the intercooler and without intervention can fill the bottom of the IC inside of 30K. Chrysler's fix for the leak that results at the hoze? RTV. Bastards.

[Evan]

, I don't have any real world experience. I am a freakinÔÇÖ retard about cars :roll: Only the people with track cars are cool enough to know anything.

Jeff keep in mind that you posted this

catch can... no turbo...lol

so it was less of a matter of saying you dont know anything and more a matter of telling you that NA race cars do in fact need catch cans

[.RJ]

On another note, I had a long chat with corey about my engine tonight. I've got a pretty long layover after the shenandoah race, until the june 10-11 race at Beaverun, so I think after this next weekend its coming out of the car, and on the engine stand.

Its blowing oil, and he is pretty sure that its way down on power, as I was even with him down the back straight at VIR in a 250,000+ mile 94 accord.

My original plan was to open 'er up, throw new bearings, oil pump and rings in it with a cheap hone job, valve job and valve seals and be done with it - but it looks like i'll just do it right with some new oversize pistons, new valves, balance, arp rod bolts, etc and take my time with it - even if I dont touch the head other than putting seals in it, I can always prep that later. Having a bottom end with rod bolts that arent going to launch into another zip code and rings that seal properly is going to be a big difference.

[Mike]

wannabe redneck? :thumbdown: tysons corner is not the south.