bL1nG!!1!!11

[.RJ]

Yeah but you still have those b20 cyl walls to deal with

[navin]

I haven't personally read anything about the thin b20 cyclinder walls cracking under N/A applications, i dunno...

Seems only b20's are cracking under b00st, but you could always play it same and add a girdle

[Kaan]

so bascially you want an LS(CRV)/Vtec overbored? again... simpler ways to do things.

[Evan]

no more stupid ass honduh talk

[navin]

so bascially you want an LS(CRV)/Vtec overbored? again... simpler ways to do things.

not for the price I could get the block/crank for... but my motor isnt blowing up anytime soon so theres no need for it. Pipe dreams

[Evan]

back to the subject of lowering rotational weight....



bL1nG!

traffic is gonna be fun!

RJ helped me (err...more like I helped RJ...) install this thing today along with a new stock pressure plate
It kicks major major ass. Engages very quickly and firmly, but still slips enough when you need it to in traffic. Definately not on/off like I was expecting. I would highly recommend it, even for a street driven vehicle.

[.RJ]

w00t

2 trans removals in one week. Thats enough for me for a while

[Kaan]

bullshit... after this weekend at summit he'll have it out again (or both of them) for winter work... motors have to get yanked anyway

[.RJ]

well, you're probably right. I'm going to prep my cyl head, and I'll probably want to go through the trans and re-check the clearances and re-install the OPM diff after it gets rebuilt again. May as well just pull the whole drivetrain

[Kaan]

why not? we can clean up the motor (bottom end)... tape it up... paint it... so we can find leaks and cracks (god forbid) really easily... we have to build a bench in your garage... I'm thinking you need a white block with a gold valve cover/head. are you going to PnP the head? the TB? you know that means you have to take it back to P1 right

[.RJ]

I'm going to do the usual IT/HC headwork. Hot tank, Mill it .020", valve job (machine shop can do this) then I'll lap the valves in and do the assembly and port matching. I may do some "interesting" things to the cams and rockers too.

It *may* go back to P1 *if* I make CMP in march....

[.RJ]

On evan's clutch job - one of the articles on miata.net said it took 2 guys 9 hrs to do the clutch. At least there are people on the interweb that suck at cars more than I do. We had the trans out in an hour after working rather slowly at it, all the bellhousing bolts were real easy to get to (these guys are taking off coil packs, heater hoses, etc to get to the top two). I think we could have done the whole job in an hour and a half if we were motivated. Anyone that complains about a clutch job on a miata would fail miserably at doing one on a honda :lol:

[christo]

don't feel like starting a new thread. my new useless bling:


8lbs fidanza flywheel that I won't install until I get a new clutch and RJ to pull off my tranny.


Spoon cam gears that I can't install until I can afford some cams and get RJ to do my valve adjustment.


CF hood that I'll be returning tomorrow (CF hood for 2 days! bling!)


tires that I won't be mounting till spring because I don't want to die in the snow this winter.

everything's just sitting around.

[Mike]

what is wrong with hood?

[navin]

because his OEM hood is a POS and does not close on our other friends car who is going back to stock..

[.RJ]

8lbs fidanza flywheel that I won't install until I get a new clutch and RJ to pull off my tranny.

Har!

[navin]

*phew*

at least I dont have to do the work, or pretend like I know how to

[Dave]

wow that's almost as bad as me when I bought the TT brake kit and shocks and springs, and didn't install any of it until after I bought my sway bars.... 11 months later.

[.RJ]

at least I dont have to do the work, or pretend like I know how to

I take payment in cash

[Feersty]

at least I dont have to do the work, or pretend like I know how to

I take payment in cash

or $PBR