10-14-2005, 10:34 PM
This is a letter and response in the July Roundel "Tech Talk" section. I have retyped it for you because I could not find it available on the net. Any spelling or grammar mistakes can be assumed to be my own. Enjoy:
I have--well, had--a 1996 M3 that I retired to winter duty and track duty when I baught my 2002 M3. Despite the normal spate of E36 problems (water pumps, radiators, thermostats, bushings, ball joints, door panels, etc., etc., ), the E36 was a pretty good car and it drove quite well when everything was up to snuff--quite well until 132,000 miles, when the rear suspension fell out of the chassis due to structural failure of the rear floor. Cost of repair greatly exceeded the value of the car, so I stripped it for parts and junked the chassis. A BMW reduced to junk after 132,000 miles: That's a first for me. My E30 M3 literally ran hundreds of driving schools with no structural failures.
I don't want to use my E46 on track; it's just too expensive. I ran it once at Mid-Ohio and boiled the brake fluid even with the brake-cooling ducts unblocked. I think the car is too heavy for track work out of the box, and I'm worried about the same failure I experienced on my E36. But this leaves me with no track car.
I was hoping for your recommendation on which new BMW I should choose for winter and track duty. I am leaning toward the 325Ci, which I'll fit with steel wheels and snow tires for winter. What do you think?
Well, this certianly calls for an opinion and reasonable opinions will vary. In my opinion, the best new BMW to buy for driving events at the race track would be a Honda Accord LX coupe with a five-speed manual gearbox. You'll save at least $14,000 over the cost of a 325Ci, and wind up with a lighter, simpler, more durable car with a stronger chassis than any BMW has produced since the E30 3 series except the 8 series and the Z8. You can tune a Honda well beyond design parameters and the chassis will not break apart like an E36 or E46 BMW. The engine and drivetrain will easily run 200,000 miles without a hiccup if you change driveline fluids with any regularity and use good products. The downside is the godforsaken front-wheel drive, but you'll get used to it.
Moreover, the Fast and Furious kids have all sorts of go-fast parts for Hondas that are relatively inexpensive compared to aftermarket BMW performance parts.
If you want to buy new and stay in the family, buy a Mini. It's not a Honda, but it's also not $33,000.
BMW wants to build luxury cars, Bob. Guess what? They do. Can you make a new BMW into a race car? Sure, and a fine one at that. But it is increasingly becoming apparent that street/track work is no longer BMWs forte. Contemporary BMWs are just too heavy, too complex, and simply not strong enough structurally to handle the stress. We hear of E36 cars with the rear floor broken apart around the suspension mounts on an almost-weekly basis. Now reports are coming in on E46 cars with the same structural deficiency.
If you want to run a BMW on the street and track, I recommend an E30 3 series or an E28 5 series. They're simple, inexpensive, relatively light weight, and built like Tiger tanks.
I have--well, had--a 1996 M3 that I retired to winter duty and track duty when I baught my 2002 M3. Despite the normal spate of E36 problems (water pumps, radiators, thermostats, bushings, ball joints, door panels, etc., etc., ), the E36 was a pretty good car and it drove quite well when everything was up to snuff--quite well until 132,000 miles, when the rear suspension fell out of the chassis due to structural failure of the rear floor. Cost of repair greatly exceeded the value of the car, so I stripped it for parts and junked the chassis. A BMW reduced to junk after 132,000 miles: That's a first for me. My E30 M3 literally ran hundreds of driving schools with no structural failures.
I don't want to use my E46 on track; it's just too expensive. I ran it once at Mid-Ohio and boiled the brake fluid even with the brake-cooling ducts unblocked. I think the car is too heavy for track work out of the box, and I'm worried about the same failure I experienced on my E36. But this leaves me with no track car.
I was hoping for your recommendation on which new BMW I should choose for winter and track duty. I am leaning toward the 325Ci, which I'll fit with steel wheels and snow tires for winter. What do you think?
Well, this certianly calls for an opinion and reasonable opinions will vary. In my opinion, the best new BMW to buy for driving events at the race track would be a Honda Accord LX coupe with a five-speed manual gearbox. You'll save at least $14,000 over the cost of a 325Ci, and wind up with a lighter, simpler, more durable car with a stronger chassis than any BMW has produced since the E30 3 series except the 8 series and the Z8. You can tune a Honda well beyond design parameters and the chassis will not break apart like an E36 or E46 BMW. The engine and drivetrain will easily run 200,000 miles without a hiccup if you change driveline fluids with any regularity and use good products. The downside is the godforsaken front-wheel drive, but you'll get used to it.
Moreover, the Fast and Furious kids have all sorts of go-fast parts for Hondas that are relatively inexpensive compared to aftermarket BMW performance parts.
If you want to buy new and stay in the family, buy a Mini. It's not a Honda, but it's also not $33,000.
BMW wants to build luxury cars, Bob. Guess what? They do. Can you make a new BMW into a race car? Sure, and a fine one at that. But it is increasingly becoming apparent that street/track work is no longer BMWs forte. Contemporary BMWs are just too heavy, too complex, and simply not strong enough structurally to handle the stress. We hear of E36 cars with the rear floor broken apart around the suspension mounts on an almost-weekly basis. Now reports are coming in on E46 cars with the same structural deficiency.
If you want to run a BMW on the street and track, I recommend an E30 3 series or an E28 5 series. They're simple, inexpensive, relatively light weight, and built like Tiger tanks.
But I know he's right, if you can get past front wheel drive, Honda's the way to go. But I wouldn't be in any hurry to put solid or stiff mounts in the rear of an E36, just keep good 'ol rubber back there and you'll be fine. :thumbup:
