I'm going to replace or block my EGR Valve over break. I haven't decided which yet; ergo, this thread.
My car is idling like poop currently (presumably due to and EGR Valve problem as I am getting an "EGR Valve" check-engine code); and, I'm afraid that blocking it won't fix the problem, which will waste a lot of my time and a little bit of my money.
What say you?
'94 Mazda RX-7 Touring
Replace it. Blockign it will just cause your dipstick or some other piece attached to the crank to just blow out.
http://www.85xr.com
1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
He said EGR, not PCV. I say block it. Figure out what the proper "functioning" resistance would be, make a jumper with the proper resistance, and block the EGR. You can't have been the only person to ever have an EGR fail, see what other people do.
But I say block it.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
Ah, duh, my bad. I had an EGR, but it's now gone, so... block it!
http://www.85xr.com
1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
It's a $20 part, and blocking the EGR can lead to a shitty idle - just replace it. Note - it's also worth a try cleaning the valve - take it off, douse it in carb cleaner and use a screwdriver to push the valve open and shut.
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.
2012 Ford Mustang
1995 BMW 540i/A
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
get rid of that shit
course, i don't have to pass emissions and you should be able to figure something out so that it looks like it is still there. On my 240, we're blocking up the hole on the steel part, then putting it back on so it looks like it is still there. Neat, huh :twisted:.