Here is the video. Lols I forgot I even gave Tom a point by because I thought I was not going to get one. I did go off at just over 40 mph so I'm definitely happy how lucky I got especially with wet grass:
[youtube]syXrnU1nlJo[/youtube]
3-4 laps in i bet you would have been okay with that move. Cold tires didnt help... but i also agree with DJs assessment about bagging the pass.
#99 - 2000 Civic Si (Future H2 Car, Former H1 car)
IPGparts.com, AutoFair Honda, Amsoil, QuikLatch Fasteners
NASA-MA Tech Inspector (Retired)
aaaah...sorry man. hate to see bent metal. really glad your bag didn't go off and really tear your interior/dash up. but, join the club...a LOT of MM'ers have left VIR with crumpled fenders, its practically a tradition.
not to rub anything in, just that you're getting good advice here and i'm sure you've had a lot of time to replay the whole thing in your head 100x over. just another thing to learn and file away for next time. no-lift-pointby drivers can be a pain in the dick and there's nothing you can do about it in a low horsepower car sometimes...that's just life.
glad to hear you'll patch it up and get back on track...there should be at least a few rear-ended 3's around that you can snag front end parts from.
2010 Civic Si
2019 4Runner TRD Off-Road
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Past: 03 Xterra SE 4x4 | 05 Impreza 2.5RS | 99.5 A4 Quattro 1.8T | 01 Accord EX | 90 Maxima GXE | 96 Explorer XLT
So... is there any reason for me to really go OE parts if I continue to track this car for two years or so? I know it won't fit as nice. But, if I continue to track it then why go OE if there is more risk if getting damaged again? What do you all think? It's will be several hundred dollars more to fix if it is used OE compared to new aftermarket.
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Track car, used/cheapest body panels you can find. Who cares about color if you are redipping em.
IMO, I'd go OE on the structural stuff (rad support, etc), that Is something you definitely want to fit.
rherold9 Wrote:So... is there any reason for me to really go OE parts if I continue to track this car for two years or so? I know it won't fit as nice. But, if I continue to track it then why go OE if there is more risk if getting damaged again? What do you all think? It's will be several hundred dollars more to fix if it is used OE compared to new aftermarket.
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For non structural parts, the cheapest you can find. Remember that is doesn't have to be perfect cosmetically, it's a track car.
Sweet Rockauto it is
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Also think long and hard about replacing the drivers side harness. It wasn't a very hard hit, but the belt are designed to be "used" once.
Dude seriously. Hit up Alex and see if he'll take you to the junkyard and get whatever you need there. There are a ton of mazda 3's there. You could get all you need under 100
2013 Honda Fit, 1991 Mazda Miata, Princess Blanca, Mystery, 1993 Volvo 940 - sold, 2003 Mazda Protoge5 - carmax'd, 1996 BMW 328is - sold, 1996 Honda Accord - sold
So, now that I have had a break since the wreck to settle down I decided to go out and start taking things off.
Bent bottom right radiator support:
There are no cracks in the actual radiator and there are no bends in the radiator. Literally looks like it just pushed the bottom support back a bit. So I did a little tugging and it is now about an inch off compared to how bad it was before.
Necessary things to be able to drive:
1. Front bumper, it's plastics and I need some fasteners/screws
2. Front driver fender
3. Headlight (already here)
Things to think about replacing later which is a lot because of all the plastic bits:
1. Whole entire inner fender driver side and fasteners/screws
2. Bottom shield tray and screws.
3. Radiator support, surrounding plastic on driver side, and fasteners/screws
4. Random fucking shit like passenger side inner fender screws and such.
To be honest I'm a bit overwhelmed with all these damn plastic and fasteners I'm going to need later if I want to get it back to where it was.
The good news there is no structural damage from what I can tell.
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That doesn't sound too bad. I would just double and triple check that nothing else got pushed back behind the radiator support.
As far as the plastics go, I would just make sure that stuff like bottom tray and anything else that might affect aero or cooling is in decent shape. Then take the part numbers for whatever screws and fasteners Mazda uses and find them on Amazon in packs of like 50.
Glad to hear that it doesn't sound too bad.
1994 Ford Ranger
2004 Honda S2000
2007 BMW X3
rherold9 Wrote:The good news there is no structural damage from what I can tell.
boom. that's all that really matters.
take the rest a baggie of parts at a time. it will take a little while and you'll probably not find every little thing to make it perfect again which is fine. might be a great time to start adding dzus fasterners in place of crappy plastic screws for ease of removing the bumper or undertray in the future.
2010 Civic Si
2019 4Runner TRD Off-Road
--------------------------
Past: 03 Xterra SE 4x4 | 05 Impreza 2.5RS | 99.5 A4 Quattro 1.8T | 01 Accord EX | 90 Maxima GXE | 96 Explorer XLT
Yeah I wouldn't sweat getting all the tiny little fasteners and washers and stuff, if you're going to continue tracking the car just make sure it's all held together well enough and roll with it.
I feel your pain, when I was working at the shop I had to put together an order list for an E39 M5 the customer had run into a ditch, and it ended up being pages and pages of specific clips, fasteners, washers and brackets.
Now: 07 Porsche Cayman S | 18 VW Tiguan
Then: 18 VW GTI Autobahn | 95 BMW M3 | 15 VW GTI SE | 12 Kia Optima SX | 2009 VW GTI | 00 BMW 540i Sport | 90 Mazda Miata | 94 Yamaha FZR600R | 1993 Suzuki GS500E | 2003 BMW 325i | 95 Saab 900S
Alright, I ordered front bumper cover + fasteners, grille (probably need screws or fasteners), fog light covers, and fender. As long as I can get the front bumper, fender, and headlight on at the minimum that's all I really care about so I can at least drive it on the street. I'll order more things as I realize what I need once I try to piece some things back on. I may or may not need to replace more than I think but oh well.
Looks like the next event I'll be driving in is Octoberfast. It's really going to suck waiting that long but there is not an event in September which would be the time I'd be ready to tow as the August event looks a little too close. So for now, I'm going to work at every event if possible to try to rack up some free HPDE's.
rherold9 Wrote:I'm going to work at every event if possible to try to rack up some free HPDE's. How does that work? I always wondered if it would be worth more to just pay real money for the track time if you are only going to work. How you value your time vs money thing. If you plan to be there anyway then I understand working to pay for the track time.
2019 Accord Sport 2.0 A/T
2012 Civic Si - Sold
??
What do you mean...
The perks of working (food, place to stay, beer, etc...) along with getting credit for free HPDE while I don't want to drive the car on track is plenty worth it. It's once a month. I'm not understanding what you are trying to say
Edit: not to mention that I enjoy being at the track.
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I am wondering if the credit you get equals the cash value of a track weekend. That way you could determine the opportunity cost of spending your time directing cars onto grid or doing something else enjoyable.
2019 Accord Sport 2.0 A/T
2012 Civic Si - Sold
JPolen01 Wrote:I am wondering if the credit you get equals the cash value of a track weekend. That way you could determine the opportunity cost of spending your time directing cars onto grid or doing something else enjoyable. Credit = slightly more than I would get paid on a weekend working. Not exactly sure what the agreement on is these days but at minimum is two weekends = free HPDE
Edit: I'll ask Laura. Regardless it is worth it to me
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Confirmed working two weekends is a free HPDE.
Edit: so essentially around $85 or so a day depending on track
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So around $10 an hour? Super meh. I guess you're doing it more for the fun and experience than the money though. The free track time is a bonus I would imagine
Posting in the banalist of threads since 2004
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks
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