Project 2.Slow Mazda3

[navin]

Those brake ducts won't do much unless the air is directly pointed at the rotor vanes... The ones you posted seem to fall short of the rotor by a bit.

You'd want something like this:

Where the hose connects to the bracket and the air is fed to the rotor.

Do you have backing plates behind your rotors? They come from the factory to prevent rocks/etc getting stuck inside the rotor, if you do... yank those out if you can w/o pressing out the hub.

Also maybe you are just overworking the pads and they are exceeding the temperature ratings? No clue what you are running, so :dunno:

[rherold9]

Those brake ducts won't do much unless the air is directly pointed at the rotor vanes... The ones you posted seem to fall short of the rotor by a bit.

You'd want something like this:

Where the hose connects to the bracket and the air is fed to the rotor.

Do you have backing plates behind your rotors? They come from the factory to prevent rocks/etc getting stuck inside the rotor, if you do... yank those out if you can w/o pressing out the hub.

Also maybe you are just overworking the pads and they are exceeding the temperature ratings? No clue what you are running, so :dunno:

Yes, I've seen those but there are a whole 0 we can buy aftermarket. And yes I will be trying to remove the dust shields or whatever you want to call them. Supposedly the guy who ran these/given me pictures from his Mazda3 in GA said it 100% stopped fade in his brakes just doing this. He has just boiled the fluid though now with his carbotechs.

I will be trying my best to get them as close as possible to the back of the rotor.

Pads are StopTech, they are supposed to be 1200F resistant but that is obviously not the case.

[JPolen01]

Can you remove your dust shields and modify them like the picture above? Getting a 3inch hole saw bit and drilling a couple holes to route the ducts through would be easy work.

[rherold9]

Can you remove your dust shields and modify them like the picture above? Getting a 3inch hole saw bit and drilling a couple holes to route the ducts through would be easy work.

I can look at that. Sounds like a good idea. It's super thin metal and easy to bend as well behind the rotors. Probably can figure something out

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[JustinG]

Hole saw, have Kaan tack on a short piece of exhaust tubing to match the diameter of your duct work. Fin

[rherold9]

Hole saw, have Kaan tack on a short piece of exhaust tubing to match the diameter of your duct work. Fin

Like this? :lol: :lol: :lol:

That's what a guy with a speed3 did. Holy shit that's fucked. Hopefully mine don't look like that...

Also, Kaan it looks like you have been volunteered as tribute for this

[JustinG]

Si, just make sure it doesn't bind or rub on anything

[HAULN-SS]

Do any air brake vents use forced air siphoning? Seems like you might have better luck trying to draw air around the caliper than push air into the side of it perhaps?

[rherold9]

Alrighty, universal 2x duct inlet, 2x 3-to-2 inch reducer, and 12 feet of 2" high temp ducting is on it's way.

[JPolen01]

Hole saw, have Kaan tack on a short piece of exhaust tubing to match the diameter of your duct work. Fin

Like this? :lol: :lol: :lol:

That's what a guy with a speed3 did. Holy shit that's fucked. Hopefully mine don't look like that...

Also, Kaan it looks like you have been volunteered as tribute for this

Lol yes that guy fucked up. I guess he never heard of a hole saw. Don't be like that guy.

[ScottyB]

:lol: did he cut that hole with a spork? how does one afford a speed3 but can't buy a hole saw?

[Maengelito]

Pads are StopTech, they are supposed to be 1200F resistant but that is obviously not the case.

Which compound of Stoptechs? I wouldn't worry about ducting yet and just buy a set of dedicated race pads/rotors.

[rherold9]

They are the street performance aka similar to their new sport pads I believe. They have so much life left on them is the sad part. They just won't die.

I can't afford new pads and rotors right now so I'm just doing ducting.

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[Maengelito]

You may not even need ducting if you get proper pads. If you can't afford the full setup, just get the fronts. Carbotech XP10s should probably be somewhere in the $150-200 range. Rockauto rotors should be about $25 a pop. Dedicated race pads/rotors should be an absolute priority over anything else at this point.

[Kaan]

i have hole saws and a welder... but i've read you want more hard pipe in the system and less flex pipe

[rherold9]

Well the ducts are already on the way. They will be needed regardless and will help regardless. Obviously I should get pads but if doing that I'm doing all 4 corners with good pads.

And huh? You don't have to do it. I have a friend here who will help. I'll just safety wire the Silicon to those dust guards.

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[Maengelito]

Obviously

[rherold9]

Obviously

I don't think throwing on dtc60s just up front is a good idea at all or the Carbotechs. At least from what I know about brakes. Worst comes to worst I take it easy on the brakes like at Summit. A few laps 80%-90% braking other laps 90%-100% braking.

Edit: more powerful brakes = more heat so idk how brake ducts wouldn't be needed

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[navin]

I think you are kind of jumping ahead a couple of steps by going right to brake ducts, but hey if you feel that's what you want to do...

The StopTech street performance pads obviously aren't going to take the constant abuse and I'm sure what you had at Summit was brake fade. So the logical thing to do would be to upgrade pads in the front. If you were to still experience brake fade with actual "track" pads then, yeah I can see starting to look into ducting the brakes.

Also you should be fine by just upgrading front pads -- the StopTech's in the rear will be fine... unless your car has some sort of crazy brake proportion from the factory.

But you all seem to enjoy the extra work, so have at it!

edit - dtc60's might be too aggressive for street tires, I think the XP10's are less aggressive and should be fine on street tires.

[rherold9]

Okay. I guess this is what credit cards were made for?

Edit:

So the logical thing to do would be to upgrade pads in the front.

What's logic?

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