Got the muffler back in last night. Wayyyy quieter now even with it being a straight through design(unlike the car's stupid stock design) and magnaflow. Sounds about the same normal driving. But, when I get on it is louder and has sweet tone. Thinking about just running a straight pipe instead of the muffler from the axle back.
Also, drove past a cop accelerating and he did nothing last night on the way to my friend's to put the muffler on. He also got the header so I helped install his!
Was a big install week/weekend. Got me and a friends header in along with mine. Had to do a few tricks to get that all settled. Then test fitted the wheels today! And everything is set with that thanks to to my friend Jesse. Said fuck it and took an angle grinder to the rear fender lip. Really really small roll in the front with some heat and wooden end to a hammer.
It was a long process of adjusting the rear camber arms to get them to fit. Fronts literally had literally no clearance and only needed a slight roll, like a few millimeters. Grinded the rears all the way down than cambered them. They have a bit more camber than needed but I'll fix that later. Feels good to have these one.
The wheels are Gramlight 57xtreme in Graphite 17x9 +40 with Bridgestone re11a 245/40/17. These things make a huge difference. They grip like hell... I could already push them 10mph harder than my other tires and they weren't even warm and it is 48 degrees out. Car feels a bit stiffer now. I actually need a new RMM because of how much stickier these beasts are. I'm getting wheel hop on bumpier turns when pushing it foot to the floor. Cars turn in feels a bit more heavy and a little slower but once it turns in it pulls hard and sticks. Steering is a bit heavier as well but nothing degrading. Very satisfied with them already.
I'll get good pictures soon. But, here are some for now:
Have you got them aligned yet? How's the front on full lock? Tried it full lock going over a bump?
Senor_Taylor Wrote:Have you got them aligned yet? How's the front on full lock? Tried it full lock going over a bump?
The picture of how close the clearance was, was full lock. Not but have taken a bumpy turn with a good amount of steering angle with no issue. I think I will be fine. That's how I figured out I need a new rear motor mount because I was getting wheel hop.
Are they the same diameter tire as stock?
Senor_Taylor Wrote:Are they the same diameter tire as stock?
-1.4% difference. So that's a good thing. Speedo will read a bit slower hopefully making me go slower haha
Nice! Opposite for me. My new tires whenever I can afford them, will be like 10% bigger. Something like a 6mph difference.
rherold9 Wrote:![[Image: 2i25xfk.jpg]](http://i59.tinypic.com/2i25xfk.jpg)
Ummm, whats going on with the brake lines here?
1994 Ford Ranger
2004 Honda S2000
2007 BMW X3
rherold9 Wrote:Fronts literally had literally no clearance
So tell me, was there clearance? :lol:
Looks like with the right amount of camber, you're OK. I have certainly had smaller gaps from tire to strut with zero issues.
I'm with Maeng, though, why the zipties? This ain't no Honda :roll:
Now:
'16 Ram 1500 | '97 BMW M3 | Some Press Loan
Then:
87 BMW 325e | 91 BMW 535i | 96 BMW 328i | 95 BMW 325i | 95 Mazda Miata | 13 Focus ST | 09 BMW 128i | 00 Pontiac Firebird | 05 Yukon Denali | 96 BMW 328iC | 11 Ford F-150 | 06 BMW M3 | 10 Range Rover SC | '03 Ford Ranger | '18 Ford F-150 | '01 BMW X5 | '98 Volvo S70 T5M
His coilovers probably don't have the bracket for the OE brake lines. Keep a close eye on those lines, possibly wrap them in split wire loom to have an extra layer of protection if you feel like it.
Yeah, the coilovers don't have brackets for the brake lines. The zip ties are more on the metal on the line pushing hard and loose on the rubber. Didn't want them flapping around I felt like it was more dangerous.
rherold9 Wrote:Yeah, the coilovers don't have brackets for the brake lines. The zip ties are more on the metal on the line pushing hard and loose on the rubber. Didn't want them flapping around I felt like it was more dangerous.
Make your own tabs or clamp them to something. Maybe use something like a loop clamp to keep the lines securely out of the way.
I don't know what the best solution would be but how it currently sits is not it.
1994 Ford Ranger
2004 Honda S2000
2007 BMW X3
Yeah... I know. But, I don't have much room to play with and such. Im going to probably research on what works well. If anyone else has ideas feel free to throw them out there
After the alignment today at Firestone. Sitting super flush now. 17x9 +40 w/ 245/40/17.
Front Specs:
Toe (a little toe in the front for braking and such)
Right: 0.1
Left: 0.1
Camber
Right: -2
Left: -1.8
Caster
Right: 3.3
Left: 3.5
Rear Specs:
Toe (close to 0 as possible)
Right: 0.01
Left: 0.01
Camber
Right: -1.9
Left: -2.1
Fender shots are cool and all but i'm still waitin on those full body shots brah brah :-P
2013 Honda Fit, 1991 Mazda Miata, Princess Blanca, Mystery, 1993 Volvo 940 - sold, 2003 Mazda Protoge5 - carmax'd, 1996 BMW 328is - sold, 1996 Honda Accord - sold
*insertusernamehere* Wrote:Fender shots are cool and all but i'm still waitin on those full body shots brah brah :-P
You'll be able to see Saturday :thumbup:
Also, set up getting my second cat deleted by Bill's Muffler on Friday at 3 for only $85. I think that's a pretty good deal. Time to make Prius owners mad :lol:
Someone educate me on why the specs aren't symmetrical?
Most places cant or won't try to get them perfect. They like to get them close and in the factory allowed tolerance.
#99 - 2000 Civic Si (Future H2 Car, Former H1 car)
IPGparts.com, AutoFair Honda, Amsoil, QuikLatch Fasteners
NASA-MA Tech Inspector (Retired)
Double tap.
#99 - 2000 Civic Si (Future H2 Car, Former H1 car)
IPGparts.com, AutoFair Honda, Amsoil, QuikLatch Fasteners
NASA-MA Tech Inspector (Retired)
Yup, Firestone just lazy. Oh well. I asked for close to -2 camber. Got close enough.
|