Everyone's given pretty much everything you need so far. Flex lines should be fine for the oil / water, get all the necessary gauges and don't skimp on the engine management. Don't forget too that you're probably going to want to run 93 octane from then on.
Posting in the banalist of threads since 2004
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks
It won't make you or your car any cooler*, Evan. But you can do a nice 1.8L turbo miata on the cheap. I'd fly out to help.
-T
*Mandatory MM smack talk. I actually get hard when I see turbo miatas.
MIHS - hot cause we fly you ain't so you not
2004 Subaru WRX STi
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass
16 Grand for a "Hello World!" program?
Must be a government contractor...
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
LS7 CRATE SWAP DO IT ... FANTASTIC SMOKE SHOWS GALORE!!
Posting in the banalist of threads since 2004
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks
Jeebus, that's a fucking steal. The motor alone is like 13 grand.
2013 Cadillac ATS....¶▅c●▄███████||▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅▅||█~ ::~ :~ :►
2008 Chevy Malibu LT....▄██ ▲ █ █ ██▅▄▃▂
1986 Monte Carlo SS. ...███▲▲ █ █ ███████
1999 F250 SuperDuty...███████████████████►
1971 Monte Carlo SC ...◥☼▲⊙▲⊙▲⊙▲⊙▲⊙▲⊙▲⊙☼◤
Some good info in here, some not so helpful info, but your on the right track. Its the smaller things that add up. Fuel pumps, injectors, possibly fuel lines, afpr (ill go into that in a moment Rex), oil return/feed, tapping the oil pan, coolant lines, heat shielding, downpipe, manifold, turbo, new intake pipe, intercooler piping, intercooler, wastegate (unless going internal), boost controller (or run off wastegate spring), and some sort of EMS ( I personally do not know much about miatas ECU and boost), gauges, check valves possibly on breather/pvc, colder plugs, possibly radiator or getting rid of ac condensor, shit I just got back from spring break and im tired, im sure theres more.
Rex, I dont know wether you are calling out goodspeed on a rising rate fpr (one that just ups fuel pressure for more fuel as a "tune") or a proper Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. A proper AFPR does many things including making fuel pressure more reliable and safer. First issue could deal with flow, the stock one maybe cant keep up.
Second issue and possibly even more important is pressure. A proper 1/1 ratio afpr (a proper Aeromotive one does this) ups the fuel pressure 1 psi for every psi of boost. This is not as some people think when they read about afpr a way of tuning, in fact this is just counteracting the forces of boost. Lets say base fuel pressure is set to 40 (base not idle) as you build 10 lbs of boost, your net fuel pressure is now 30psi coming out of the injectors, to get it back at 40, the fuel pressure regulator must up the pressure in the lines to 50 to get the injectors at 40 again. Deadtime and duty cycle is what determines your tune, so if you are overrunnning your stock fpr, your injectors could see less pressure than what the computer thinks (and it should be) and youll see a shitty tune or one that is unreliable. This also applies to vacuum, but of course that is why you have a stock fpr.
2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S