Project 94' SHO

[Nis01]

You really think the car would eat an entire set of brand new pads and rotors :?:

Doubtful (mainly just backup incase something fails), I ran my street pads first time out with very minor wear on them. You can expect to start getting a mushy brake pedal by the end of the weekend with stock fluid... seemed to be a common occurrence for most of the guys out there even in HPDE 1.

[Evan]

You really think the car would eat an entire set of brand new pads and rotors :?:

if you overheat pads badly, especially street pads they wear extremely quickly. doubtful that you will get them that hot for your first weekend or 2 but it is possible.

[.RJ]

-The car has a clunk in the steering when stationary just off dead center

You might want to locate it - If I'm looking over a student's car, tug on a wheel and feel clunking, its going to need to get fixed before it goes on track.

and honda challenge cars blow up, burn up axles, bearings and brakes every weekend. Every car can be unreliable in some ways, and every car can be a great track car.

I never had any reliability issues on any of my hondas :dunno: And yes, I am saying that a heavier car with alot of HP and b00st is going to be harder on equipment. Thats just basic maths.

[Mike]

Just shut up over this shit already.

we did...

:?:

who butt in here saying that the advice of people have been doing this stuff for a long is worthless/a joke? if i'm getting poked, i'm going to respond.

time and again we've said we 100% support his/adam's decisions, but they need realize what they're getting in to.. it's not going to be as easy or cheap since they're doing something that isn't really done... note: the archer cars, a decade and a half ago don't count for shit. if that's funny or worth bringing up every time somebody posts something related, then i suppose dj was on point. bravo, dj.

but to resort to insults? grow up.

[Mike]

adam, i would just splurge on a quality set of pads. brakes are not something to go budget on... sure, you might get away with it, but why risk stopping?

1. you don't need any paperwork, but you are supposed to have your car tech'd by a shop. most don't follow that "rule."
2. just recheck every bolt.
3. not at all.
4. yes.

[.RJ]

2. just recheck every bolt.

LCA Bushings, bearings, steering rack mounts, etc. I'm not getting in the car if I'm worried about a wheel coming off in the middle of T10... unless maybe pete is driving :lol:

[Ginger]

"I was WOT when..."

[Dave]

Aside from the whining going on in this thread, I applaud Adam for daring to go big. Instead of saying "it won't work", we should be asking if there is any help he needs. Any car can be tracked, it just might not be very fast. I certainly hope Adam does not plan on winning HPDE1 and he may find, in his own time, that the SHO isn't a good chassis for the track. However, he may have an absolute blast doing it and really, if you aren't racing or working towards it, isn't that why we do this HOBBY? Kudos to all of our new guys getting out there, regardless of what they are driving.

Adam, your brakes should be fine for your first weekend. Try to find the clunk if at all possible and make sure everything you can check is tight. Don't worry about gutting the interior right now, you can do that later and you still have several things you need to take care of before that. Otherwise, your car sounds ready based on the list at the beginning of this thread and I am ready to see some SHO power on track :-).

[.RJ]

I certainly hope Adam does not plan on winning HPDE1

You gotta start somewhere!

[ScottyB]

Aside from the whining going on in this thread, I applaud Adam for daring to go big. Instead of saying "it won't work", we should be asking if there is any help he needs.

i agree. Adam's livin' the dream 8)

thing is....if Adam could be persuaded to not track the SHO it would have happened a long time ago, and somehow i doubt this thread would exist. not to mention the various whacked out cars many of us tracked or autocrossed to get started with this type of motorsports activity.

anyway....don't skimp on brake pads, however i think normal, blank rotors are fine. just check the car over, get your fluids topped and keep on top of those funky sounds. your focus should be on reliablity and consistency, not speed, just do what you need to in order to keep that focus.

[ViPER1313]

Thanks for the advice - I am planning on figuring out the clunk if possible. I would get better pads - if they existed :wink: If the brakes are completely inadequate I will do a 12" Cobra upgrade.

[Mike]

I would get better pads - if they existed :wink: If the brakes are completely inadequate I will do a 12" Cobra upgrade.

then just take it easy, and be more than willing to pit when the pedal gets mushy... heroics = bad.

[Dave]

Thanks for the advice - I am planning on figuring out the clunk if possible. I would get better pads - if they existed :wink: If the brakes are completely inadequate I will do a 12" Cobra upgrade.

IIRC carbotech will make any pad you want if you send them an old backing plate. Still got the ones you just replaced?
You also might be interested in trying to duct some air to the rotors, should help extend pad life by dropping the brake temps faster. In group 1 none of these should be necessary, but being cautious with brakes always pays off.

[Maengelito]

well, lets just let adam track the car with these brand new pads. if the pedal gets spongy, then come in. if the rotors show some serious wear, then we can work around that. he hasnt put the car on track yet, so it could be perfectly fine. and hopefully the car is in a shape where catastrophic failure wont occur in the chute. it'll just be a good idea to keep an eye on some aspects of the car to make sure it holds up alright throughout the weekend. personally, i'm excited to finally get some current students out to the track. i love seeing the n00bs take that hit off the GFCP and go through the same things we did when we started

[Mike]

You also might be interested in trying to duct some air to the rotors, should help extend pad life by dropping the brake temps faster. In group 1 none of these should be necessary, but being cautious with brakes always pays off.

don't come to me for brake duct help... :lol:

[PDenbigh]

2. just recheck every bolt.

LCA Bushings, bearings, steering rack mounts, etc. I'm not getting in the car if I'm worried about a wheel coming off in the middle of T10... unless maybe pete is driving :lol:

No wheels were lost. If I remember correctly it was more along the lines of "Shit, no brakes, hang on! Weeee!!!" And then we did one more lap just to be sure the brakes were gone :-)

[.RJ]

Well you can drive without brakes just fine, so you can probably drive without a wheel or two :lol:

[ViPER1313]

This weeks issue: broke front spring :wink:

Guess I shouldn't run over anything I can find at break neck speed just for fun. :twisted: