The Daytona Project

[D_Eclipse9916]

^^^^^ Agree with Pete, I wuold actually say that sometimes the street/track pads take TOO much time to warm up. Find something for really low temp and high bite as pete said, and advance auto's brake fluid is fine, but spend the extra dollar for the synthetic shit, even though im not convinced at all its better, but to me its piece of mind.

[ScottyB]

^^^^^ Agree with Pete, I wuold actually say that sometimes the street/track pads take TOO much time to warm up.

i agree.... i had Hawk HP+'s on my accord front brakes and they were crap in cold temps or before i had got them hot. once warmed up they were awesome but i used to hate how i had to warm them up.

[white_2kgt]

HPS pads, its what ive been recommended by alotta people for street and autoX use.

Hawk's website says "Sorry, we don't make them for your busted shit!"
I'm sadder now.

FWD-P lists "Hawk - Street/Track pads" for the front and the StopTec 911 pads for the rear....icky.

Hawk is doing you a favor. I will NEVER run another piece of shit Hawk pad, I had 3 sets (none were HPS or HP+ though) and they all fell apart after only being on track for less than 20 minutes, the compound literally FELL off the backing plate, they sucked anyway.

...but spend the extra dollar for the synthetic shit, even though im not convinced at all its better, but to me its piece of mind.

Uh, you can't just go sticking DOT5/Synthetic fluid in a brake system that wasn't designed for it. It will react with the seals and cause ALL KINDS of leaks. Stay away from that stuff unless your brake system specifically says use DOT5.

[Jeff]

Chad, Pete, all,
I'm going to HPDE this car so I want to use a fluid that will stand up to that use when I get to it. Is there a danger to running dot 4 in a dot 3 system? Whats the difference between super blue and "advace brand synthetic" brake fluid? Just the temp ranges?

[PDenbigh]

Well, there's synthetic, and then there's DOT-5.

Dot-5 is a silicon-based synthetic. It has really high temp tolerances but it also compresses more than Dot-3/4 so it can give a spongy pedal. It was designed for big trucks that don't care about pedal feel as long as they can stop.

There's synthetic Dot-3, such as the Castrol, that shouldn't cause any problems in any system designed for regular Dot-3.

[PDenbigh]

Jeff,

Just get some of the Ford Heavy Duty stuff. Costs a lot less than all these "fancy colored thangs" and it has a great heat level. Many racers use it. I have never boiled it in the XR.

And to add another reason to use it, don't spend $80 on a bottle of fluid just to find out you need to change something on your brakes and empty it all out ;-). Once you are sure your brakes are 100% how you want them, then you can splurge on flushing with the high $ stuff.

(Ask me how I know...)

[PDenbigh]

All you could ever want to know about brake fluid: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml">http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_br ... d_1a.shtml</a><!-- m -->

[white_2kgt]

Well, there's synthetic, and then there's DOT-5.

Dot-5 is a silicon-based synthetic. It has really high temp tolerances but it also compresses more than Dot-3/4 so it can give a spongy pedal. It was designed for big trucks that don't care about pedal feel as long as they can stop.

Doh, Yea I got silicone and synthetic confused there.

[Jeff]

I don't know if that confused me more then it helped me. I have "Synthetic DOT 4" fluid in my Minivan, which was designed for DOT 3. That page seemed to suggest that I might be in danger of rotting some of my seals and lines. I hope not, I replaces the front calipers and rear wheel cylinders when I did it, so the only things to rot would be inside the master cylinder and in the rubber lines.

As for the Daytona. The calipers at all corners will have new seals and the lines will be replaced, leaving the master cylinder as the only possible leak there. That leads me to think that I could use a DOT4 fluid of higher quality and be ok. Besides being expensive is a "racing" type fluid ok for the street? Whats the part number on that Ford fluid and what DOT is it Pete?

Sound off, who is using what and what to they think?

[PDenbigh]

Don't know the PN. IT's the Ford "Heavy Duty" fluid, they use it in the superduties and the sports cars.

Why are you so obsessed about Dot-4 anyhow ;-)? Get a high-temp Dot-3 and stop worrying! And if you must, just get one of the snythetic "Dot-3/4" hybrids.

[Jeff]

Come on Pete...more is better!

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WIL%2D290%2D2210&N=700+4294925094+4294867875+115&autoview=sku">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku</a><!-- m -->

What about this stuff? I wonder what fluid is used in the Viper, there might be a mopar HD fluid I can get cheap. Maybe someting they use in the 3500.

[white_2kgt]

Come on Pete...more is better!

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WIL%2D290%2D2210&N=700+4294925094+4294867875+115&autoview=sku">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku</a><!-- m -->

What about this stuff? I wonder what fluid is used in the Viper, there might be a mopar HD fluid I can get cheap. Maybe someting they use in the 3500.

Ford stuff is C6AZ-19542-A replaced by Motorcraft PN's, PM-1 (old, better stuff) or PM-1C (new, not as good, but still good stuff).

See the problem w/ the link you posted, is I can get 12 cans of the ford stuff for the same price .

[Nick325is]

If you end up doing the Dot-4 then go with ATE superblue or the gold. Only difference with the blue is that when you bleed the brakes the first time you can really see when the new fluid is coming through.

The gold is the same stuff...just without the dye.



-Nick

[Jeff]

Ok, so its half as expensive. Do you know its numbers for sure? I mean, I guess if you use it in your freakin AI car it will be plenty good for me. Thanks for the number, I might have to pay Muhlenberg Ford a visit and get a box of that good shit.

[Jeff]

Bling?

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml">http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml</a><!-- m -->

[Dave]

DOT-5 is the only brake fluid you need to careful about, that will deteriorate the seals in the brake system over time.
Whenever I pick up a new car, I typically flush the old shit out with synthetic DOT-3 (Castrol), then switch over to Super-blue (DOT-4) if it's going to see track time. I've never used the Ford Heavy Duty, though I've heard it's good stuff. If you've got money you want to burn and never want to worry about boiling, get the Motul RBF 9 billion, RJ seemed to like it in the Typuh-arRrRRRR.

[Nick325is]

Whats the dry and wet boiling point of the Ford stuff?


-Nick

[white_2kgt]

Bling?

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml">http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml</a><!-- m -->

very, it is good stuff though, this is more bling though,
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.raceshopper.com/motul_brake_fluid.shtml">http://www.raceshopper.com/motul_brake_fluid.shtml</a><!-- m -->

The problem w/ that is the large bottles, if you don't use it all up quickly you have to toss it b/c once it's open moisture can get to the fluid and ruin it. That's the main reason I've stayed away from it, the ford bottles are small I usually use the whole bottle each time I bleed.

[Jeff]

Can you buy super blue (or that motul) in smaller sizes? It will take 1 liter to get me goin, maybe a little more. So If I could but one big can and then like 4 smaller 1ooz bottles (or whatever they are) I could be golden. Price isn't to crazy high either.

[PDenbigh]

"...don't spend $80 on a bottle of fluid just to find out you need to change something on your brakes and empty it all out ;-). Once you are sure your brakes are 100% how you want them, then you can splurge on flushing with the high $ stuff.

(Ask me how I know...)"