Project A4

Andy · 11-29-2006, 10:21 AM

ScottyB Wrote:
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Nice scotty, your intake setup is what I did, cut the 180 into pieces and weld em together then put on the AEM dryflow. That sucks thjat you have to use a suction pump for the rear diff.

i'm hoping it will fit w/o cutting and welding...my measuring was pretty good but i guess we'll find out :lol:

yeah....i don't like working under the car, let alone while trying to pump fluids uphill from a cheap suction pump. hopefully i'll have some pictures of me covered in gear oil for you to laugh at.

Scotty, why don't you buy a long section of clear tubing, stick one end in the diff, the other end in a funnel and fill while standing up and drink a beer. That's what I've done with MT's and diffs.

ScottyB · 11-29-2006, 01:23 PM

Andy Wrote:Scotty, why don't you buy a long section of clear tubing, stick one end in the diff, the other end in a funnel and fill while standing up and drink a beer. That's what I've done with MT's and diffs.

oh that's that plan for the front! but the rear diff is tucked up in the unibody, so i have to work uphill. you damn mid-engine'rs and your compact drivertrains *waves fist*

don't worry, there's always tasty libations involved when the wrenches turn.

**JohnC** · 11-29-2006, 01:23 PM

Like this:

[Image: IMG_2258.jpg]

ScottyB · 11-29-2006, 01:25 PM

haha! why haven't i seen that before? thats incredible

***ViPER1313*** · 11-29-2006, 01:39 PM

Here is the trick for pumping fluid uphill quickly without a ton of mess. You need:

Tubing (3 feet of small diameter fish tube works great)
Bottle(s) of fluid
Drill / Soldering Iron (or something to puncture / burn a small hole the size of the tube through the top of the bottle)
Bicycle pump with needle tip

Drill a hole in the top of the fluid bottle and insert the tube all the way to the bottom of the bottle. Seal the edges of the hole with some duck tape. Put a small hole in the side (near the top) of the bottle using a pick or thumb tack and put the needle from the bike pump in to it. Then pump away - the pressure forces the fluid up through the tube. You can transfer the top of one bottle to the next. Works great and no mess unlike the funnel / large tube / pour away / get half a quart all over the pavement method.

Andy · 11-29-2006, 01:53 PM

ScottyB Wrote:
Andy Wrote:Scotty, why don't you buy a long section of clear tubing, stick one end in the diff, the other end in a funnel and fill while standing up and drink a beer. That's what I've done with MT's and diffs.

oh that's that plan for the front! but the rear diff is tucked up in the unibody, so i have to work uphill. you damn mid-engine'rs and your compact drivertrains *waves fist*

don't worry, there's always tasty libations involved when the wrenches turn.

I've done this with the rear diff of 2 subies, a miata and a 240. If you set up the funnel about 2-3 feet about the diff, the energy that the fluid gathers as it flows down the tube will overcome the force of gravity as he has to sneak back up to the diff.

Maengelito · 11-29-2006, 05:01 PM

ScottyB Wrote:haha! why haven't i seen that before? thats incredible

its a good thing i didnt get the bottles mixed up... john, you should also post up that pic of the windex bottle we used to fill the tranny.

what i do now is i bought this sorta large pump at advance auto (similar to what you'd find on like a cafeteria sized ketchup dispenser) and put it in the bottle of redline and put the nozzle in the fill hole and pumped ketchu... er redline into the rear diff. also, back when i had the integra, i put new tranny fluid in it with silkolene which chan sold me. the bottle was genius though. it was tapered at the top kinda like a quart of mobil1, but the cap had a hose in it that you could pull out about 6 or 8 inches. then you could stick the hose in the fill hole and essentially squeeze the fluid into the tranny

**JohnC** · 11-29-2006, 08:55 PM

Maengelito Wrote:
ScottyB Wrote:haha! why haven't i seen that before? thats incredible

its a good thing i didnt get the bottles mixed up... john, you should also post up that pic of the windex bottle we used to fill the tranny.

ScottyB · 12-05-2006, 12:49 AM

well i can't start either my intake OR my gear oil projects as both part orders are either partially or totally on backorder. grrrrrrrrr.....damn holiday shoppers like me are screwing it all up! Confused

hock:

also, kind of an opinion thing....in this cold weather, what is the max rpm's you guys usually take the car til it's warm?

i have to climb a monster hill out of my locale so i usually take it to 3000 rpms only as long as i have to and try to settle into 4th gear at 2200 or so. then up to 3k consistently when the oil is around 150 degrees, then 4k and up when its at 200 degrees. sound ok?

.RJ · 12-05-2006, 07:14 AM

The new beater gets pegged on the rev limiter leaving the driveway Tongue

**Mike** · 12-05-2006, 10:42 AM

my car doesn't move until 4k. i keep it under 6 until it is warm Tongue

ScottyB · 12-05-2006, 12:39 PM

haha, i'm not worried then

Sijray21 · 12-05-2006, 02:27 PM

granted his rev limit is 9k :-P

i try to keep it under 3.5k before it's warm

Maengelito · 12-05-2006, 03:16 PM

we've had this discussion before havent we? anywho, its not like the oil is a brick until it reaches operating temp. its still a liquid and as long as the motor isnt under maximum load when the car is started, i dont think it's bad for the motor to be revved. i mean, no one seems to be flooring it out of their driveways and they seem to keep it fairly tame until the car is up to temp so i wouldnt worry about keeping it under a certain range, just be easy on it.

ScottyB · 12-05-2006, 05:11 PM

Maengelito Wrote:we've had this discussion before havent we? anywho, its not like the oil is a brick until it reaches operating temp. its still a liquid and as long as the motor isnt under maximum load when the car is started, i dont think it's bad for the motor to be revved. i mean, no one seems to be flooring it out of their driveways and they seem to keep it fairly tame until the car is up to temp so i wouldnt worry about keeping it under a certain range, just be easy on it.

yeah we have been...i was just curious because i have to climb a big hill immediately upon leaving my house, so its a load vs. rpm thing for me -- do i rev it or risk bogging it down when its 20 degrees out and my car has been running for like 1 minute?

i see what you mean though, so sorry for waking this up from the dead....again

Feersty · 12-05-2006, 06:01 PM

Is common for SVTs to be sluggish so I take it easy for the first 5 minutes or so, and let her warm up while I am inside.

Maengelito · 12-05-2006, 07:10 PM

ScottyB Wrote:yeah we have been...i was just curious because i have to climb a big hill immediately upon leaving my house, so its a load vs. rpm thing for me -- do i rev it or risk bogging it down when its 20 degrees out and my car has been running for like 1 minute?

i see what you mean though, so sorry for waking this up from the dead....again

nah, i dont mind that you brought it back. its valuable info. jenn lives at the bottom of a hill, so in the morning when its cold, i feel the car is bogging probably because the clutch is cold and maybe slips a bit until it warms up

.RJ · 12-05-2006, 07:12 PM

The clutch should slip less when its cold. If the car is bogging when cold, its a fuel related issue, not the clutch.

Maengelito · 12-05-2006, 07:13 PM

hmmm, really? i would think that the friction material would hold at higher temps up to a certain point, kinda like the difference between cold and hot brakes.

**Mike** · 12-05-2006, 10:01 PM

could also be a battery issue. my car had some god-awful starts, which were remedied by a new battery.

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