Project: TL Type S

[WRXtranceformed]

I don't know if this is the truth or not, but I honestly don't think many police even have / use Spectres or any other RDD for that matter. Especially city / county cops. I could see state troopers using them around the state borders, but it's just another thing they have to have plugged in on their windshields. Especially in VA, there's such a low % of drivers that use them that they probably don't even bother.

[WRXtranceformed]

Just going to copy and paste my post from the Acura forums about my hardwire install because I'm too lazy to edit it!

"So here is a little writeup based on what I ran into with the Escort hardwire install. I won't go through the same a-pillar removal step by step as the V1 install thread because it's obviously unnecessary. However, for those who buy the Direct Wire SmartCord this might be helpful.

First of all, this kit uses a 3M connector to tap into an existing wire, it's not designed to plug right into the fuse box, which apparently is dangerous anyway. That's how my buddy caught his old Integra on fire. This does make it a little more confusing because without a wiring diagram you have to figure out which wire is which in a huge bundle of wires next to the fuse box. As seen here: (disclaimer: I took all of these pics with my EVO in low light conditions, so they're not going to be high quality shots)


Fortunately my buddy had a circuit tester? I don't remember the technical term because I don't do a lot of wiring myself, but it basically allows you to figure out which wire is linked to which circuit by plugging into the source or directly into the particular fuse you want to trace. The wire I wanted to plug into was the rear passenger window so that I had a stealth way to turn the detector off and on by using the window lock switch. I drive up to VA to visit family every now and then, so it was important to me to have a way to do it discreetly.

If you want to hardwire it into the rear passenger window switch to have this ability, you need to splice into the wire that is yellow and red with a few gray stripes on it. I tried to snap a pic but it didn't come out so where you could see the color, but just remember to look for a yellow wire with red and gray stripes.



Again, not a great picture, but you can loosen the wire from the bundle and just snap the 3M connector over it, push the male spade connector into it and then make sure the plastic cover is completely over the exposed metal.



I wanted to install the remote panel similarly to how mmade did his (in the empty button slot near the mirror controls) but I didn't like how you couldn't see the alerts or the panel because of the steering wheel. It was located just where you can't see it. So we switched the VSA switch from the left side to the right.



After you pop the blank button out, there is a little threshold that we decided to shave down to be flush with the hole opening so that the panel would have a nice tight fit in there and would have a flush look once it was completed.



Then I pushed the panel through the hole. It is a really tight fit, which is good, but don't be afraid to push it. This was then hot glued in place from behind.



The finished, flushmounted product




To mount the detector here in NC, I will probably use the suction cup mount and have it just to the left of the rear view mirror up in the tint strip to deter thieves. During my trips to VA, it will probably be mounted like this:



This allows for a good line of site for the detector if I move my visor down just a bit, and the a pillar hides it from side view and from the front it's nearly invisible. With the remote panel, I can operate it in night mode so nothing lights up above the steering wheel for prying eyes to see:



Hope that helps some of you guys out there who pick up this kit and want a clean DIY install! The biggest challenges we ran into were:
1) Figuring out which wire was the rear passenger window
2) Getting that panel that holds the switches to sit back flush again. I broke one or two of those cheap, shitty clips that holds everything in these cars together so I'm hoping it stays put

Interestingly, my VSA button backlight has been off since I bought the car. After I switched it to the other location it works again! haha"

[JustinG]

:thumbup: lookin good

[Jake]

Nice and clean install, good work!

[WRXtranceformed]

F me, I curbed one of my wheels today for the first time It's not huge but it's noticeable enough to me. I guess this gives me an excuse to stop being stingy and get the body stuff painted and get this wheel fixed.

[WRXtranceformed]

Disaster averted!

Car wouldn't start this morning. Electronics freaking out, flickering on and off. First thought was battery problem. Had to give away two appointments and have a friend drive me to AAP to test my battery. Battery was fine. Shit. Could be something expensive. My insurance tows for free with roadside assist, so tow truck driver takes me to the Honda dealership where my buddy is a Honda Master Tech. Stopped on the way to give the guy a pack of cigarettes and a Mountain Dew as a tip (that's what he asked for haha). My girlfriend works for Enterprise so she hooks me up with a really cheap rental car. My buddy spends about 10 minutes in the parking lot and figures it out. There was a small gap between the clamp ring and the battery terminal that had caused corrosion. He scraped it off with a screwdriver and a wire brush, regreased it, and it started up again. Let it run for about 15 minutes, battery charged up fine and is 100%.

So, what I thought could be a starter or ignition problem was just some sludge! Cost me under $20 because I bought a dozen donuts for the Enterprise guys since they voided my ticket and I didn't have to pay for the rental car.

[ScottyB]

you have some of the most strategic hookups ever :lol:

glad it wasn't something pricey!

[WRXtranceformed]

It just goes to show you that so much in life comes down to who you know

I was so happy. I seriously had my mind made up that if it was something expensive I was going to have it fixed and then go shopping for a new car. I had the body shop that Chelsea's Enterprise location is in do an estimate for the body work and interior work that needed to be done....$850+! Yikes! They were trying to charge me $175 for the door panel and another $175 for the seat back though. $150 for the curbed wheel, rest for the bumper damage.

[WRXtranceformed]

Mini update.

Car is approaching 98,000 miles. Sweet Lord I drive a lot. Car has been rock solid overall, newest issues I've run into though:

1) Tires wear EXCESSIVELY in the rear. I'm talking shot in 20k miles. It's only on the insides too. My buddy (Honda master tech who works on my car) told me that this is somewhat normal for TLs which was confirmed through some forum searches. Something about the suspension geometry in the rear, and the toe can't be adjusted enough with factory components to make a difference apparently. He recommended that I buy an aftermarket toe/camber kit for the rear and have it put in the next time I have to swap these tires out. Ingalls makes a decent one that is sold through a vendor on the forums for $75 each ($150 total for the rear).
2) I threw an APP sensor code recently (automatic pedal position) that is related to the drive by wire. This is caused when one of the sensors fails to communicate with the other. This is apparently what was causing the Prii to accelerate out of control, however the Prii only have one sensor ... this is the reason why Acura made two I guess. Car went into limp mode on the highway. CEL disappeared after a day or two and hasn't returned and the car drives normally so I'll just let that one simmer for a while until my car starts accelerating out of control.

Transmission is shifting extremely smooth now with the new pressure sensor switches and the Amsoil fluid. The stock Z1 fluid is absolute garbage. There is a lot of talk about fluid usage on the TL forums and it appears that Redline Racing Fluid (Type F) is supposed to be one of the best fluids...although it's only been tested by a few members. This particular transmission apparently doesn't like friction modifiers and the type F has none. My goal is to preserve the life of this transmission as much as possible, that's probably going to be the next change. I will also be switching over to Redline engine oil as my Amsoil preferred customer status is running out and I feel that Redline is a better oil.

All timing belt parts are in and sitting in my garage ready to go. I am such a bargain shopper and I was debating using another mechanic friend to keep the labor costs down, but Chris (my buddy) at Hendrick Honda has helped me out so much with all of the issues I've had as well as my service advisor Jeff who has become a good acquaintance that I'm going to give them my business. It's not recommended but I'll probably have the valves adjusted as well since I'm planning on pounding this thing into the ground. As soon as the 105k service and my warranty expires, Jpipe and PCDs will be on the way! I also found a *really* good deal on a 2011 nav DVD update so i'll probably pull the trigger on that later this month.

[Maengelito]

I also found a *really* good deal on a 2011 nav DVD update so i'll probably pull the trigger on that later this month.

is this it?
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2348457">http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2348457</a><!-- m -->

[CaptainHenreh]

Something that wasn't a new project thread.

::goes and looks for Maeng's new project thread::
::finds nothing::
Maeng, you're not allowed to post here.

[WRXtranceformed]

I also found a *really* good deal on a 2011 nav DVD update so i'll probably pull the trigger on that later this month.

is this it?
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2348457">http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2348457</a><!-- m -->

That would be the one!

Detector worked flawlessly to VA and back this weekend Saved me once for sure!

[WRXtranceformed]

Just installed the newest NAV disc and.....

[Mike]

littering and...

[WRXtranceformed]

Smoking the reefer!

[WRXtranceformed]

Got some Ingalls goodies in today:





Rear camber kits for the left and right side. Hoping this fixes the issue with the factory suspension geometry eating the insides of my tires. Apparently the guy who sold them to me is doing a group buy on his Jpipe soon which will probably help me pull the trigger on it sooner as opposed to later. RV6 also just redesigned his precat deletes out of thicker 304 stainless steel so I might just do it all at once. Will probably set me back north of $800 but I think that will keep me happy with this car long into its old age *I hope*

[WRXtranceformed]

Ughgh shit, so I'm definitely in for the long haul with this car! haha...

I figured since I'm going through the expense of the timing belt service, I'll go ahead and get to the other things that need attention. Case of Redline 5W30 came in last week, just put in an order for a new APP sensor. These are what caused the runaway Toyotas. Honda was smarter than Toyota though and included 2 in line with each other. Toyota only used one. When I threw that CEL a few months back that caused my car to hop into limp mode, it hasn't run the same since. This is apparently pretty common on the TL, and it's an easy sensor to replace. Supposedly the car drives night and day after the replacement. Also putting in an order for Redline Type F racing ATF with 0 friction modifiers. In theory it's supposed to help preserve the life of the clutch packs over the garbage Z1. There is a huge thread on it on the Acura forums and the folks that have switched over have had raving reviews over how their transmissions have performed since the switch.

I haven't even tried to do a running tally on how much I'm going to be putting into this car within the next month or so, but it will be upward of $2000 in parts and labor since I have to get new tires as well. After this though, I should be set for a long time with oil changes / tire rotations Most of it is just because I am really anal retentive about my cars in general, I could easily get away with less costs....but in the long term it could mean the difference between 200k miles and 300k miles.

Performance mods coming after I get this out of the way and I get through tax season. :thumbup:

[WRXtranceformed]

Well, Excelerate just had a groupbuy so I pulled the trigger.




Not bad for replacing one piece of the exhaust (that dyno had some other stuff going on, but at least it gives a baseline). The factory Honda jpipe has a ridiculous restrictive "smash" in the pipe to limit power in order to prevent torque steer. This car got some flak because it wasn't as powerful as the Infiniti G series or the IS350....well technically the engine is, it was just restricted because it's FWD.

After I swap out the precats to precat deletes, the car should be just over the claimed power numbers for the IS350 and G35. There should be a lot more mid range power which this car lacks.

[ScottyB]

nice, looks like a really well built piece. take a sound clip too 8)

[WRXtranceformed]

Thanks man I'm stoked! I liked the fact that it was made from the thick T304 stainless so hopefully it holds up. I'll definitely work on a sound clip, but I doubt it will make that much of a difference until I take those precats out of there.