Project: 2003 BMW M3

[RawrImAMonster]

TAKE IT OUT. There's your explanation. Seriously, just take it out.

It delays engagement of the clutch after you've completely let off the pedal. If you feel like the car shifts a little weirdly compared to other cars you've driven, this is what's causing it.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Any reason you are going the eibach pro street vs just a set of Koni yellows + eibach springs?

Glad you got out unscathed with the headers. They are known to be a pain. Looking forward to your dyno results, MachV is having a dyno "night" coming up soon if you are interested.

I go to the dyno in a couple weeks to get retuned for ST3 and see where mine is at full bore. (Intake, BW boot, Epic Headers, 3-inch back from there, pulleys, Epic Tune). More to be gained from the exhaust but I picked up a side exhaust that will go on later this year.

[RawrImAMonster]

Any reason you are going the eibach pro street vs just a set of Koni yellows + eibach springs?

Every review I've been reading has said that the Eibach struts are incredibly well paired with the springs they chose. They're just getting good reviews all around. I also like that I can adjust the height with the Eibach setup so I can dial in the height I want without swapping springs. I'm not slamming it or anything, but I'm kind of picky about ride height in general.

Like I said, I'm not 100% set on what I want yet. That's just the way I've been leaning based on reviews I've read of various setups.

I'm pretty sure I still have the original struts on the car, so anything will be a large improvement. If they aren't the originals they are still old as hell.

Edit: Here's a review of Koni Yellows vs the Eibach Pro Street setup <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=530118">http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=530118</a><!-- m -->

[D_Eclipse9916]

Any reason you are going the eibach pro street vs just a set of Koni yellows + eibach springs?

Every review I've been reading has said that the Eibach struts are incredibly well paired with the springs they chose. They're just getting good reviews all around. I also like that I can adjust the height with the Eibach setup so I can dial in the height I want without swapping springs. I'm not slamming it or anything, but I'm kind of picky about ride height in general.

Like I said, I'm not 100% set on what I want yet. That's just the way I've been leaning based on reviews I've read of various setups.

I'm pretty sure I still have the original struts on the car, so anything will be a large improvement. If they aren't the originals they are still old as hell.

Edit: Here's a review of Koni Yellows vs the Eibach Pro Street setup <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=530118">http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=530118</a><!-- m -->

Looks like the difference is in the spring rates. The Pro street setup has higher spring rates than an off the shelf Eibach spring. Makes it feel more RACE KA. :lol: For your only "car" and not being a street machine, I can see wanting the "higher" spring rates. I am getting old, I want my street car to have lower spring rates than that :lol:

[SlimKlim]

I am getting old, I want my street car to have lower spring rates than that :lol:

Going from the H&R Races to the H&R Sports is the best thing I've ever done for my car, and my back. The thick painted stop line of an intersection should never make your teeth click when you hit it at 45mph.

[Senor_Taylor]

Ok, it's a restriction in the hydraulic line that actuates the clutch. This sets a "maximum speed" at which the clutch disk can be applied to the flywheel.

In theory, it might result in smoother clutch action and less clutch wear.

In practice, it'll make you stall constantly, make it impossible to shift quickly, and generally be a pain in the dick.

Remove it.

TAKE IT OUT. There's your explanation. Seriously, just take it out.

It delays engagement of the clutch after you've completely let off the pedal. If you feel like the car shifts a little weirdly compared to other cars you've driven, this is what's causing it.

I guess that explains why it's so much more tedious to drive than the Miata was.

[SlimKlim]

OBD-I BMWs 4 Lyfe. Mine never had that shit.

[RawrImAMonster]

Looks like the difference is in the spring rates. The Pro street setup has higher spring rates than an off the shelf Eibach spring. Makes it feel more RACE KA. :lol: For your only "car" and not being a street machine, I can see wanting the "higher" spring rates. I am getting old, I want my street car to have lower spring rates than that :lol:

I am getting old, I want my street car to have lower spring rates than that :lol:

Going from the H&R Races to the H&R Sports is the best thing I've ever done for my car, and my back. The thick painted stop line of an intersection should never make your teeth click when you hit it at 45mph.

I daily drove an evo 9 for 2 years. I can handle a semi-rough ride on my weekend car. :lol:

I guess that explains why it's so much more tedious to drive than the Miata was.

Yep, it will be so much better once it is removed.

[JPolen01]

I guess that explains why it's so much more tedious to drive than the Miata was.

Yep, it will be so much better once it is removed.

I just looked this up on Civic and it makes so much sense why I can't quick shift into second. And why the clutch sucks so much donkey dick. Maybe when it is not 16 degrees I will follow the DIY and remove it from my car as well. Any downside to removing the delay valve?

[D_Eclipse9916]

I guess that explains why it's so much more tedious to drive than the Miata was.

Yep, it will be so much better once it is removed.

I just looked this up on Civic and it makes so much sense why I can't quick shift into second. And why the clutch sucks so much donkey dick. Maybe when it is not 16 degrees I will follow the DIY and remove it from my car as well. Any downside to removing the delay valve?

Damage to drivetrain if you are like 60% of the "bros" driving and dump the clutch between shifts onto the synchros. If you rev match and slip the clutch properly there is no disadvantage. I have ditched the CDV in every car since I was 17, and have had 0 drivetrain failures related to it.

That said, I know your Civic Si is known to have clutch issues soooo I would do more research.

[Beej]

Nice! How'd they fit? I'd love to check it out in person. And good riddance to that cold start thing, it's even more annoying with a louder muffler. Speaking of which, how did the sound change?

I like to pretend my CDV protects the rear subframe mounting points. :?

Oh and let me know when you can code one-touch rear popout closing and remote window closing. 8)

[RawrImAMonster]

Nice! How'd they fit? I'd love to check it out in person. And good riddance to that cold start thing, it's even more annoying with a louder muffler. Speaking of which, how did the sound change?

I like to pretend my CDV protects the rear subframe mounting points. :?

Oh and let me know when you can code one-touch rear popout closing and remote window closing. 8)

Everything fits perfectly. No issues whatsoever.

Sound wise, it's a rasp machine now. I'm going to get a Rogue El Diablo muffler as soon as I see one used on the forums. That should give it some actual tone vs just rasp. If I'm not happy with that I'll get a couple of the CPI resonators they use in their rasp terminator section 1 and weld those into the factory section 1.

As for the CDV, just take it out. The car will drive so much better. It wasn't nearly as bad on my 135i, but on the M3 it makes a huge difference. You will be amazed at how much better it drives.

I'm planning on modifying my cable and trying out coding this weekend so I'll let you know. From what I was reading, both of those things should be easy to code. I think you need to make some hardware modifications as well as the coding for the one touch rear pop out option.

[SlimKlim]

What's so bad about the cold start mode? Doesn't it just raise the RPMs for a few seconds?

[RawrImAMonster]

No, they idle really roughly with cold start mode on and if you have aftermarket exhaust, it's way louder. Mine would run so poorly with that on that it would stall at the first stop sign I came to when I put the clutch in if it was really cold out. Once it warmed up it stopped. Now it doesn't do that, it idles perfectly smooth when it's cold.

I was thinking that was related to the ICV needing to be cleaned, but it seems to have gone away completely with the tune.

[SlimKlim]

That's really weird. Mine will idle a little bit higher if it's really cold but definitely doesn't run rough.

It does feel like every single fluid was replaced with a mixture of molasses and tar until I've been driving for 15 minutes when it's below 30* though. It's amazing how stiff the old girl's joints get in the winter. Like, it takes so long to shift gear people behind me rage out about it. If it's into the teens I even have to double clutch the first few shifts.

[RawrImAMonster]

I finally got around to modifying my cable and wiring a switch in that connects pins 7 & 8 when I want it to. After doing that, coding was super easy. I turned off my daytime running lights and enabled remotely rolling up the windows. I'm going to mess with it some more when I have some time on the weekend and add the m-dynamic track mode (part of the ZCP package in later years) and turn off the stupid 37 degree alarm. Definitely worth the 5 dollars it cost to modify the cable vs paying someone else to do it.

I should be able to code most BMW's with this cable since I have the ability to switch the cable back and forth now.

In other unrelated news, I'm getting a secondary air pump code after the headers. I'm not sure if it went bad while I had it off or if I didn't just get it plugged in all the way. It doesn't cause any problems since it's not really in use at the moment anyway, but the code is annoying. If I have to, I'll get a blockoff plate and remove it altogether and have TTFS adjust the tune to ignore that code.

[Senor_Taylor]

Sweet! I might have to hit you up for some of those programs!

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

[Beej]

That's great news on the coding! Is there a UI or do you have to shuffle through hundreds of lines of German?

I helped a friend put the non-ZCP steering wheel controls on his ZCP car. To keep the M Dynamic mode, he got a windshield wiper stalk from the e39 and use the S button (which is for "intensive" washing) for the M Dynamic mode. Seemed like a kit as it came with wire connectors and everything. Real clean install, I'd look into it if there isn't some other way people are doing it.

[RawrImAMonster]

There is an easier way for us without a ZCP car. You can code it so that you press the DSC button once for the M-dynamic mode and hold the button for a few seconds to turn DSC off all the way. If there is a way to default to M-dynamic mode, I'm going to do that because the default DSC is stupid intrusive.

Also, yeah there is a UI (in German), but once you open the actual module, it's just a standard config file, still all in German.

Edit: When you all hold unlock to roll the windows down, does it also open the back windows? Mine does that, so I'm going to try to figure out how to stop the back windows from opening.

[Beej]

That is a clean way of doing it, and yeah standard DSC has crazy low thresholds.

Edit: When you all hold unlock to roll the windows down, does it also open the back windows?

Yup.