Project Hatch

[kcook]

wider is better.. do it once, do it right

btw my friend just posted this <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2471295303.html">http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2471295303.html</a><!-- m -->

[navin]

WHOA - awesssssome, another "EG" at the track. I'll to answer some of your Q' s to the best I know of..

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My only concerns are, can I eventually run 225 Hoo Hoos on this wheel and offset without having to do any crazy camber or alot of fender rolling? Should I go 15x8? If so what offset would work?

I run 225's on my 15*7 slips (plenty of people do, my fenders are rolled but nothing crazy) I haven't tested out if it rubs anywhere, but the wheels are +40 and are pretty close to the rear trailing arm. Nothing an angle grinder won't take care of. I know some people also rub in the front fender well, but again nothing an angle grinder won't take care of. If you need to roll your fenders, my buddy has the tool and I don't think he would mind lending it out. Easily done on a hot ass day at Summit

15*8 6uls +36 offset work great from what i've heard. Maybe minimal fender rolling. I'd keep the rotas you have and maybe get some star specs or t1rs for them and save for the 6uls.



My research says yes I can but I would like other peoples input. Not much help from Honda-Tech, everyone is all about HERRAFRUSH and MAD TYTE STANCE YO. So suggestions on informative forums would be nice as well.

Yeaah, good luck. A lot of the guys on forums.itrexpo.com track their ITRS, but still have good advice for us lowly civic owners. roadraceautox.com as well is good shtuff, especially for parts

Tires im going with Star Specs in 205/50/15, because they are the next best thing to the unobtanium that are RS-3s. They also have a $80 rebate at Tirerack so that makes them under $100 per tire.

I just picked up some Rs3's from treadzone 3 weeks ago, but def. wouldn't try to fit them on 6.5's

5- Drive the living piss out of the car!!! Mostly focusing on Auto-X to get used to the car, and hopefully popping my track cherry in November.

Things im thinking about planning/doing/researching:

Brake Ducts??? Needed??? NOPE, cut the brake rotor shields off the knuckles..
Oil Cooler??? This ive seen is a 50% dont think its needed & 50% think its good cheap insurance Ehh, not required but good for piece of mind. You might be able to find a Type-R oil cooler used if you wanna go cheap
Pro Sport Warning: Oil Pressure/Oil Temp/Water Temp Gauges I'd do something like RJ with the oil pressure light, maybe he can chime in
CF Hood? dependent on weight. If you want, seen some cheapo ones popup on vadriven

Other than that im playing it by ear and just going to change the car to meet my needs as problems/thoughts arise.
I briefly glanced over the work Mikey's been doing to the car as of late, and had some suggestions/idears...

1. ditch sportlines for some GC's, plenty of people selling diff spring rates on RR/AX. Just dont go too crazy, the OTS Koni's can only handle up to 500 lbs I believe
2. Bushings - not sure what Mike has changed, but I'd give it a thorough look thru. Especially the rear trailing arm (spherical's are nicey), front lower LCA (I personally like the hardrace stuff)
3. Is there a front sway bar? If not, I used to run this setup - the car likes to rotate with just a big rear bar, but I felt the front bar helped the car feel more stable hrug:
4. Ditch the Junk2 Upper Control Arms - JUNK. I know you are looking to run R-comps down the road and they do love some negative camber. Again hardrace FTW (for hardrace stuff i'd go thru specialprojects motorsports, or the guy on ebay)
5. While you are at it, swap the UCA's from left to right. Instant positive caster, probably one of favorite mods I have done... and it's free. I would basically do this if you plan on doing a bushing refresh, etc since you need an alignment afterwards.
6. Fastline Performance Shifter - laugh it up guys, but i love this thing.

I could go on forever, but if you have any questions ping me -- navindhas AT gmail - i hardly check these forums, and i could probably be more of a help through email. Oh yeah, i might be picking up another car in the near future that has a jdm b18c swap. I'd be willing to let go of that longblock for pretty cheap (:evil

[navin]

Some more advice/tips:

1. Check the rear fender wells, if the black rubber piece is on there rip it off! They hold in moisture, etc and end up causing dreaded honda QP rust
2. Pick up a main relay and swap it out - easy/cheap/good piece of mind for these old POS's
3. 225's don't rub on my car - tested it last night

[JustinG]

what spring rates are you running?

[Jeff]

"It's Bawlin'."

[navin]

what spring rates are you running?

600/800 - wayyyy too much spring rate for the tires i was running (azenis). I run Tein's, but will most likely be going over to Koni's in the winter.

[D_Eclipse9916]

I run Tein's, .

:vomit:

[Mike]

i replied, but no idea where it went. anyway...

- brake ducts - don't need unless you really suck or get a silly motor in it. dust shields are already gone.
- yes, obviously ditch the street springs.
- get the x8s... do it right the first time.
- 225 will fit. you'll probably want to roll the fenders more. i've rolled the rears a bit, but could use more. i would rub lightly on shenandoah.
- rear trailing arms bushings are fresh, lcas are new, and front balljoints are "young."
- no sways on the car. nobody has ever convinced me why tying an independent suspension together is a good idea. i've had great luck with only spring rate changes.
- the skunk2 arms are junk, but better than nothing. i'd replace them, but it shouldn't be near the top of the list unless you're mucking with camber often.
- it doesn't need a pimpy shifter.
- i wouldn't put any money into this motor (baffled pan, oil cooler, whatever). it runs great and well, but it's near worthless. i don't expect you'll want to do TT with it, but i haven't had it on track with the ITR trans... it might suck quite a bit less.

the car will be coming with a notebook i kept in later years of my tracking. not too much data in there, but should give you an idea of the spring rates and tire pressures i was running.

[navin]

A baffled pan is a nice piece of mind modification - i'm not sure about the LS bottom end, but if you could swap the pan to another bottom end down the road (VTAK!!), it might be a good idea..

[Mike]

vtak bottom end? you lost your marbles?

[navin]

You know what i mean..

If he decides to ditch the LS motor for a b16/gsr/itr motor (VTAK y0) I wasn't sure if the pan is a direct swap over. I thought there were some differences in the blocks, just too lazy to look it up and confirm.

[.RJ]

:LS motor + ITR transmission = winning on track in that little hatchpile.

[Mike]

car has been delivered to dj, who will [hopefully] deliver it to justin. farewall, hatchpile.

[JustinG]

never been this excited about a civic in my entire life!

[Mike]

yeah, i'm not sure what's wrong with you...

[JustinG]

I think its the simplicity of the car that i'm most excited about, no silly turbos, crazy power adders, and the fact that everything is so damn cheap!

[Mike]

this is true. if something breaks, it's like 1 of 1 things fucka dsm and silly fuel stuffs. the hatch fired up immediately after sitting for a solid six months.

[JustinG]

May have found a set of 15x8 6ULs, for a good price, still waiting to hear from the seller

Edit: Picking up 15x8 6ULs this weekend or next.....WOOT!

[JustinG]

Took delivery of it today, thanks to DJ and Kyle for gettng it down here.

She is tucked away safe in her new home.



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[Mike]

yay! now gimme my money and plates