flip-flop = your rear wheel has a fixed cog on one side, and a free spinner on the other... if you want to ride the other way, you pull off the wheel and flip it around 
I Am Mike
4 wheels: '01 RAV4 (Formerly '93 Civic CX, '01 S2000, '10 GTI, '09 A4 Avant)
2 wheels: '12 Surly Cross-Check Custom | '14 Trek Madone 2.1 105 | '17 Norco Threshold SL Force 1 | '17 Norco Revolver 9.2 FS | '18 BMC Roadmachine 02 Two | '19 Norco Search XR Steel (Formerly '97 Honda VFR750F, '05 Giant TCR 2, '15 WeThePeople Atlas 24, '10 Scott Scale 29er XT, '11 Cervelo R3 Rival, '12 Ridley X-Fire Red)
No longer onyachin.
and real fixed gears dont have brakes!
Evan Wrote:and real fixed gears dont have brakes!
Plus juan
When it comes to Ryan Jenkins, the story ends with me putting him in the wall.
2009 Speed Triple | 2006 DR-Z400SM | 1999 CBR600F4 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee
-Ginger
Evan Wrote:and real fixed gears dont have brakes!
correct, but fuck that.
I Am Mike
4 wheels: '01 RAV4 (Formerly '93 Civic CX, '01 S2000, '10 GTI, '09 A4 Avant)
2 wheels: '12 Surly Cross-Check Custom | '14 Trek Madone 2.1 105 | '17 Norco Threshold SL Force 1 | '17 Norco Revolver 9.2 FS | '18 BMC Roadmachine 02 Two | '19 Norco Search XR Steel (Formerly '97 Honda VFR750F, '05 Giant TCR 2, '15 WeThePeople Atlas 24, '10 Scott Scale 29er XT, '11 Cervelo R3 Rival, '12 Ridley X-Fire Red)
No longer onyachin.
If I do a flip flop I will get lazy and never change it. So I'll just go fixed. I will rock a front brake at first and if I can make it without I will take that off. We shall see.
IRO has some pretty nice stuff, but I am going to build my first one as cheaply as possible. If I like it I will look at some higher end stuff. I have found a few guys around here and in hampton roads (will be there this weekend) that build up fixed gears out of old bikes. I will go see what they have in the way of frames and parts.
I picked up a frame last night.
Schwinn 1980something World Sport.
Lugged steel
Horziontal dropouts not that long (I will drill them)
$25 from craigslist land
The bike is in great shape. I feel bad ripping it apart. It rode smooth and shifted with little problems. I figure I can sell the parts I'm removing and recover the 25 I paid for the bike. The paint is ugly as hell, but I don't care because I will be repainting the bike.
The guy said he had 28 emails within hours of posting it. He saved it for me because I emailed him first. It seems old road bikes go fast in this area.
I spent most of last night removing parts. I am nearly down. I need to get a few tools for the rest.
Does anyone have a blow torch? I want to remove the braze-ons and I read you can heat them and they come right off.
how do i tell if a bike has horizontal dropouts?
i have an old schwinn frame thats in great shape
Where the rear wheel bolts up = drop outs
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://boostrot.net/gallery/d/6111-1/IMG_0169+_Large_.JPG">http://boostrot.net/gallery/d/6111-1/IM ... Large_.JPG</a><!-- m -->
You want the horizontal adjustment in them to get the chain tension right
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
mrbaggio Wrote:Does anyone have a blow torch? I want to remove the braze-ons and I read you can heat them and they come right off.
i have one. if it's not at my arlington place it's probably at my mom's place.
evan scroll down to the vertical dropout section.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html">http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html</a><!-- m -->
jray want to help burn my new frame?
.RJ Wrote:Where the rear wheel bolts up = drop outs
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://boostrot.net/gallery/d/6111-1/IMG_0169+_Large_.JPG">http://boostrot.net/gallery/d/6111-1/IM ... Large_.JPG</a><!-- m -->
You want the horizontal adjustment in them to get the chain tension right yeah, I know thats where the wheel bolts up to, but what does "horizontal" mean. I cant see how it would not be vertical and still be able to hold a turning wheel....
edit- got it, thanks. this bike was made in 1991 so it may be borderline, but im pretty sure they have an angle
The dropout do not really hold the wheel. Think of the dropouts as a track to slide the wheel on (if they are horizontal.) When you tighten the wheel down you are really squeezing it in between the frame dropouts. The opening of the dropouts could be facing any direction really. Its the pressure on the frame between the wheel nut and the spacer that hold the wheel there.
I think I'm going to check this out.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/bik/718605044.html">http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/ ... 05044.html</a><!-- m -->
Anyone want to come with?
If its Italian it has to be good.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/bik/721381848.html">http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/ ... 81848.html</a><!-- m -->
I finished the fixed bike. I picked up an old Schwinn from CL. A guy in DC let it go for $25. It was is perfect working order when I got it. I felt a little bad ripping it apart.
It looked like this:
![[Image: startedWithThis.JPG]](http://ennsodesign.com/images/startedWithThis.JPG)
I stripped it down to the just the frame. Sanded it down. Rattle can primered, painted, and cleared it. Then rebuilt with many of the original parts. Add new wheels, tires, and chain. I still want to get a lighter set of pedals, a smaller brake handle, and cut down the brake cable. I also have some bar tape that I will add once I figure out what I'm doing with the brake handle.
The paint is far from perfect. I messed up while painting and transporting the frame. Giving the bike a funny look is enough to chip it, but it was cheap and a good learning experience.
Here is what I ended up with:
![[Image: rideIt.jpg]](http://ennsodesign.com/images/rideIt.jpg)
![[Image: noParking.jpg]](http://ennsodesign.com/images/noParking.jpg)
![[Image: threeOclock.jpg]](http://ennsodesign.com/images/threeOclock.jpg)
Looks good. It's amazing how quick old lugged steel bikes can look good and new again without all the old switching gear.
You may want to look into bull horn or flat bars and an updated brake, eventually... I think it'll go a long way towards making the bike more comfortable, and easier to stop.
When it comes to Ryan Jenkins, the story ends with me putting him in the wall.
2009 Speed Triple | 2006 DR-Z400SM | 1999 CBR600F4 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee
-Ginger
Great work man. I'll have to do something similar to my old Schwinn Worldsport now....
JackoliciousLegs Wrote:Great work man. I'll have to do something similar to my old Schwinn Worldsport now....
If you do, you need to paint the frame, and write "FELT" on the frame, but with a backwards E 
When it comes to Ryan Jenkins, the story ends with me putting him in the wall.
2009 Speed Triple | 2006 DR-Z400SM | 1999 CBR600F4 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee
-Ginger
Thanks. I was thinking about throwing a flat bar on there. the drops are pretty uncomfortable, but I was hoping I get used to them.
Looking at the pic, it's a pretty steep drop from your seat top, to the top of the bars. I don't think I maintain one quite that steep on my race bike right now... you've really got to spend a lot of time in the saddle to get used it. The stem (from the frame, to the handlebars) should have a bolt in the top that you can loosen, and allow you to raise the bar height, which should help until you change bars. Just make sure you don't raise it beyond the max. height.
*edit* You may also want to toss a level on the saddle. It looks like the nose might be tilted slightly up, which can _really_ make things uncomfortable.
When it comes to Ryan Jenkins, the story ends with me putting him in the wall.
2009 Speed Triple | 2006 DR-Z400SM | 1999 CBR600F4 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee
-Ginger
|
