FS: 1996 Audi A4 Quattro V6

[ScottyB]

Damn those are cheap now.... bad ideas.

LOL you're hopeless

[Mike]

good looking car, and great seller.

i haven't looked in to the costs of the repairs, but that's how i'll make my decision. i'm more leaning towards not getting it.

notes:
- the front tie rod doesn't seem to be urgent. i didn't hear or notice it at all.
- the rear wheel bearing is more urgent than i had thought. i'm currently looking in to the difficulty in this. hoping it's a bolt-on affair as with a honda.
- cv may be torn, but axle seems fine. i would just replace the axle when it starts to make noise, but it wasn't.
- brakes are all fresh.
- body is in very good shape for 180k miles.
- it may have been repainted at some point, but no signs of major damage.
- it is slow as hell.
- the steering fluid leaks about a quarter-sized spot every day. doesn't cause any problems other than you have to top it off every month or so. he's like 95% certain it's just a loose line.
- interior in good shape. small, small tear in a seam on the driver's side door.
- the cel is on. he's certain it's just the stuck egr valve and is willing to pull the code.
- has a pretty good stereo. i didn't use it, but he said alpine type r rears, and it has a small sub in the trunk.
- electrical! the climate control lcd intermittently works. while i was in the car, it didn't. controls still work, but you can't see your exact settings. he said it was a $400 part to fix it, which is why he never bothered.
- tires in good shape, engine felt smooth, didn't see it burning anything.

i'm likely staying away because i've always told myself audis are bad news. i don't care how bulletproof these 2.8s are, i'd still be scared every day that i'd be pulling the front clip at the slightest repair. AND it's f'ing slow.

[Mike]

some prices on the repairs:
new rear hub: 280 + cost of lug studs
or you could just get a new bearing: 25 + dealing with a machine shop
egr valve: 300
tie rod: 70

[.RJ]

The hub wont be 'bolt on' like a honda if its AWD

[Mike]

The hub wont be 'bolt on' like a honda if its AWD

no? this kinda looks hondaish...

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[.RJ]

Yeah, thats gonna need to be pressed. The hub flange will seat on the wheel bearing inner race.

Edit - you shouldnt need to replace the hub. You'll have to remove the whole upright and take it to a machine shop though (probably $60 to R&R the bearing).

Edot 2 - a repair shop can do the job without a machine shop or removing the upright - they'll use a "hub shark". Probably 2 hrs labor ($200) plus parts.

Edit 3 - slower than that integra you have?

[Mike]

Edit 3 - slower than that integra you have?

about the same. much nicer cruising down the highway, though.

[ScottyB]

i was about to say the bearing won't be a simple affair. not horrendous but a PITA.

the LCD thing is fairly common. seems like alot of German cars suffer from that type of thing. same for the leakage.

sounds like you've already made up your mind about not going through with it? i'd hate to see you get it and then have your suspicions about audis made even worse if something unplanned breaks. the good news though is that it couldn't really depreciate even more if you wanted to get rid of it :lol:

[Mike]

it couldn't really depreciate even more if you wanted to get rid of it :lol:

unless something serious goes wrong.

[Apoc]

the good news though is that it couldn't really depreciate even more if you wanted to get rid of it :lol:

No... but you could have to pay a lot to make it run so you could sell it. :lol: