12-12-2005, 09:29 PM
I was just thinking that Kraft-faced may not be the best idea, unless you're going to eventually drywall your garage. The facing is, under code, considered a fire hazard. Our inspectors often make us rip it off the insulation if it's in a conditioned area that isn't drywalled. But, I seriously doubt you'd pull a permit just to insulate your garage =p
Kraft-faced is so money too, because you can tack the tabs on either end of the batt to your garage trusses or the studs in your wall so that they seal each truss / stud bay. If you do it right and prevent "fish-mouthing," you get a really really effective seal and help keep even more heat / coldness in. Here, I'm bored so here's a terrible MS Paint detail of what I'm talking about.
![[Image: insulation.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v402/WRXTranceformed/insulation.jpg)
Kraft-faced is so money too, because you can tack the tabs on either end of the batt to your garage trusses or the studs in your wall so that they seal each truss / stud bay. If you do it right and prevent "fish-mouthing," you get a really really effective seal and help keep even more heat / coldness in. Here, I'm bored so here's a terrible MS Paint detail of what I'm talking about.
Posting in the banalist of threads since 2004
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks