Season updates/goals. Blue highlights in progress/bought. Yellow is decision has been made. Green means done. Red means new additions. Crossed means not doing it:
ARP studs came in, open Muteki SR48 extended lugs came in, RX8 front hub/bearing, rear bearing, and new hub/flange. I will use the ones I have on the car that I will be taking off as spares. Good-Win-Racing competition motor mounts are purchased. Will help significantly on track with shifting. Transferring more load to the chassis vs allowing the engine flex as much. Battery update can be found in previous post. Just need to call Track Dog Racing about if I can buy their kit without the battery they offer if not I'll have a battery for sale from their kit. Hood vents have been purchased for the sweet sweet cooling and small aero gains
Conti ECS seem like a solid budget primary rain tire. Obviously Hoosier wet is the baller option but I'm not racing and would like to save some money here. There's usually at least one TT session a weekend that a dry tire is fastest. These are just seat time generators for the most part! Racing would be a different story and you'd want stickiest wet tires like Hoosiers because there isn't 3-4 race sessions a weekend like there are with TT.
I've decided I'm just going to get max power I can without e85 or touching engine internals. Hoping for a good 6whp gains... DPTuning in NOVA will be tuning it if I can't get Flim Flam on board to become a ECUTek tuner. I would like to figure out what I want to do for a RAM air intake solution. I'm probably going to use a hole saw and slice right through the bumper. Get air directly to the intake. If I do this I need to a) start with larger piping step down to smaller piping if I want this actually to be effective. Thoughts are short 4" or 3.5" inlet -> 3" to filter -> stock 2.75" size longest piece into the throttle body. No standing dyno gains but should increase airflow when moving to push more air and theoretically have a few more hp at faster speeds.
Cover fog lights, flat under-tray, and fix fender liners for better aero efficiency. At my lower hp I think aero won't payoff enough in comparison to hp. But, I can always test that later if I'd like to. For now we'll test with the basic 'free' point aero efficiency mods. This may even move to hood ducting, mirror removal, etc. if I decide to get real serious about it. I'll have to figure out a solution on the front bumper clips where the fender liners mount to as like all the clip points are broken for the most part.
New wheel purchase for sticky tires aka Hoosier R7/BFG R1. I'll be keeping my current RPF1's and load some sticky 200tw tires on them when my RC-1s completely die in a few more events for dry events like GTA, Gridlife, or SCCA TT. They require 100tw+ usually and the sticky 200s at the moment are basically just as fast as 100tw.
I've been contemplating aero vs non-aero build for some time. Asking around with some people including ST/TT folks and reading up online I'll just be running OEM aero for now and build to the rule book and see where we are. So, that means not doing brake ducts atm. Yes I'll have replace front brake pads 1 event sooner but whatever. This also means no bumper cut. Oh well. Goal is to save a couple thousand in aero and put it towards other items to get the car prepped up.
I found out the reason my poly hanger ripped is because they require constant lube or they will rip. Had no idea this was the case because there was no info about this on FMs product page. I found this out on GWR's product page. OEM rubber won't rip so I'll be using OEM rubber hangers
- New plastic rear window
- Strip weight - Just need to complete sound deadening
- Front/rear class + number stickers
- Diff fluid change
- Transmission fluid change
- Oil change
- STA-BIL in gas tank
- Eastwood rubber brake line mounts
- ARP Wheel studs + open-ended lug nuts
- RX8 front hub upgrade + new rear hubs
- Rain tires - Conti ECS
- Chassis bracing (may have prototype bracing to test for this)
- Good Win Racing stiffer motor mounts
- Flyin Miata exhaust hanger replacement
- TDR Super Cool Kit - lightweight battery purchased but not the kit yet
- Brake ducts (c6 z06 fog light ducts + awr hub ducts and ducting)
- Singular hood vents
- Rear bumper cut to crash bar
- Sell stuff to make money back - have actually sold quite a few things
- GWR 1.8 header (purchased), catless midpipe with double resonators (purchased), swap current street muffler with a race muffler from another NC Miata
- Figure out ram air intake solution
- EcuTek dyno tune
- Cover fog light holes
- LRBSpeed flat undertray
- Replaced messed up fender liners
- Extra set of 17x9 RPF1's
ARP studs came in, open Muteki SR48 extended lugs came in, RX8 front hub/bearing, rear bearing, and new hub/flange. I will use the ones I have on the car that I will be taking off as spares. Good-Win-Racing competition motor mounts are purchased. Will help significantly on track with shifting. Transferring more load to the chassis vs allowing the engine flex as much. Battery update can be found in previous post. Just need to call Track Dog Racing about if I can buy their kit without the battery they offer if not I'll have a battery for sale from their kit. Hood vents have been purchased for the sweet sweet cooling and small aero gains
Conti ECS seem like a solid budget primary rain tire. Obviously Hoosier wet is the baller option but I'm not racing and would like to save some money here. There's usually at least one TT session a weekend that a dry tire is fastest. These are just seat time generators for the most part! Racing would be a different story and you'd want stickiest wet tires like Hoosiers because there isn't 3-4 race sessions a weekend like there are with TT.
I've decided I'm just going to get max power I can without e85 or touching engine internals. Hoping for a good 6whp gains... DPTuning in NOVA will be tuning it if I can't get Flim Flam on board to become a ECUTek tuner. I would like to figure out what I want to do for a RAM air intake solution. I'm probably going to use a hole saw and slice right through the bumper. Get air directly to the intake. If I do this I need to a) start with larger piping step down to smaller piping if I want this actually to be effective. Thoughts are short 4" or 3.5" inlet -> 3" to filter -> stock 2.75" size longest piece into the throttle body. No standing dyno gains but should increase airflow when moving to push more air and theoretically have a few more hp at faster speeds.
Cover fog lights, flat under-tray, and fix fender liners for better aero efficiency. At my lower hp I think aero won't payoff enough in comparison to hp. But, I can always test that later if I'd like to. For now we'll test with the basic 'free' point aero efficiency mods. This may even move to hood ducting, mirror removal, etc. if I decide to get real serious about it. I'll have to figure out a solution on the front bumper clips where the fender liners mount to as like all the clip points are broken for the most part.
New wheel purchase for sticky tires aka Hoosier R7/BFG R1. I'll be keeping my current RPF1's and load some sticky 200tw tires on them when my RC-1s completely die in a few more events for dry events like GTA, Gridlife, or SCCA TT. They require 100tw+ usually and the sticky 200s at the moment are basically just as fast as 100tw.
I've been contemplating aero vs non-aero build for some time. Asking around with some people including ST/TT folks and reading up online I'll just be running OEM aero for now and build to the rule book and see where we are. So, that means not doing brake ducts atm. Yes I'll have replace front brake pads 1 event sooner but whatever. This also means no bumper cut. Oh well. Goal is to save a couple thousand in aero and put it towards other items to get the car prepped up.
I found out the reason my poly hanger ripped is because they require constant lube or they will rip. Had no idea this was the case because there was no info about this on FMs product page. I found this out on GWR's product page. OEM rubber won't rip so I'll be using OEM rubber hangers