06-02-2017, 02:21 PM
More and more updates until I get everything on the car:
Last night I was able to get everything situated with the end links and FM had great customer service. I can see why they are recommended when buying parts. Two end link heads are opposite thread as told by Eric. So everything is all good there. They did reverse threading so you can adjust on the car without have to unbolt them. While awesome idea and great to use, when you don't know this you think you got a bad part as in my case. I'm glad they were more than helpful. I recommended to add something in description about the product. Something like "due to these having the ability to be adjusted while still on the vehicle, these end links will have reverse threads on two of the heads so don't feel confused when you first get them and they don't clockwise thread on both sides" would go a long way for ignorance. I'll be fully bolting these once the tires are on the ground so the bar won't have pre-load.
Next I worked on removing the rear sway bar which was a breeze compared to the front. No end links gave me trouble.
I then started to remove the plastics in the trunk to access the top nuts. Didn't realize you'd have to remove every single piece until I got into it. So I removed all the pieces and removed the metal gas protector
I unbolted the top nuts inside the trunk and bolt from the wheel well. Then removed the 17mm on the bottom. I then took a hammer and harbor freight jack stand metal piece and beat on the bottom spring seat to get the bottom of the shock off the little nipple.
I did not remove any arms in the rear as you don't need to. The FM instructions say to remove the lateral link on the bottom. After doing the removal that will for sure make getting the rear shock out easier but isn't necessary. After some patience wiggling, pulling, pushing, and turning I got both of the rear shocks out.
Disassembled the rear shocks. Started to re-assemble.
Got a little rage when I figured out that I would need to drill out some pieces to fit on the MCS damper to re-use the OE pieces. Specifically the cylinder and top piece. I was not informed of this and did not realize this was a thing. The pieces I'm talking about are 14 and 15 of the assembly diagram. I thought these would be included just like Ohlins or Fox but I was incorrect. A little frustrating but it is what it is. No aftermarket top hats for the NC provide the travel the OE's do. At least none that you can buy off the shelf like the front sphericals. Not sure why they designed the NC rears so weird but they do what they are designed to do and give good travel compared to the NA/NB. I wish a company would develop aftermarket that work with these dampers or equivalent dampers that have the same qualities as OE.
I stopped there for the night and will be picking up a drill and drill bits. Also, my harbor freight spinning piece to lower the jack has broken. It barely works to lower it. It gets jammed or something's up. Feels crunchy. I'll be buying that as well I guess.
Hoping to get everything assembled and on the car tonight then start on the exhaust if I get the time.
Last night I was able to get everything situated with the end links and FM had great customer service. I can see why they are recommended when buying parts. Two end link heads are opposite thread as told by Eric. So everything is all good there. They did reverse threading so you can adjust on the car without have to unbolt them. While awesome idea and great to use, when you don't know this you think you got a bad part as in my case. I'm glad they were more than helpful. I recommended to add something in description about the product. Something like "due to these having the ability to be adjusted while still on the vehicle, these end links will have reverse threads on two of the heads so don't feel confused when you first get them and they don't clockwise thread on both sides" would go a long way for ignorance. I'll be fully bolting these once the tires are on the ground so the bar won't have pre-load.
Next I worked on removing the rear sway bar which was a breeze compared to the front. No end links gave me trouble.
I then started to remove the plastics in the trunk to access the top nuts. Didn't realize you'd have to remove every single piece until I got into it. So I removed all the pieces and removed the metal gas protector
I unbolted the top nuts inside the trunk and bolt from the wheel well. Then removed the 17mm on the bottom. I then took a hammer and harbor freight jack stand metal piece and beat on the bottom spring seat to get the bottom of the shock off the little nipple.
I did not remove any arms in the rear as you don't need to. The FM instructions say to remove the lateral link on the bottom. After doing the removal that will for sure make getting the rear shock out easier but isn't necessary. After some patience wiggling, pulling, pushing, and turning I got both of the rear shocks out.
Disassembled the rear shocks. Started to re-assemble.
Got a little rage when I figured out that I would need to drill out some pieces to fit on the MCS damper to re-use the OE pieces. Specifically the cylinder and top piece. I was not informed of this and did not realize this was a thing. The pieces I'm talking about are 14 and 15 of the assembly diagram. I thought these would be included just like Ohlins or Fox but I was incorrect. A little frustrating but it is what it is. No aftermarket top hats for the NC provide the travel the OE's do. At least none that you can buy off the shelf like the front sphericals. Not sure why they designed the NC rears so weird but they do what they are designed to do and give good travel compared to the NA/NB. I wish a company would develop aftermarket that work with these dampers or equivalent dampers that have the same qualities as OE.
I stopped there for the night and will be picking up a drill and drill bits. Also, my harbor freight spinning piece to lower the jack has broken. It barely works to lower it. It gets jammed or something's up. Feels crunchy. I'll be buying that as well I guess.
Hoping to get everything assembled and on the car tonight then start on the exhaust if I get the time.