Update:
Installed Koni Sport Shocks (Front and Rear set to 180* from full firm at the moment), H&R Sport Springs, Front refresh (lcas, lca bushings, sway end links, and tie rods), front strut reinforcement plates, and added front camber plates
I bought a bunch of proper tools to get the job done, so if anyone needs to use the lollipop bushing removal/install tool or a nicer set of spring compressors (the ones that have the horse shoe plates) let me know. I also had to get a flat 32mm and 16mm spanner wrench for the tie rods and end links.
Whoever worked on the tie rods last installed the tie rods backwards and the front passenger tower was mushrooming a bit. I'm glad I put the plates in there as well as the camber kit since that spreads the load on the top a bit. The camber kit was also needed as I'm planning on adding a larger/wider wheel tire setup in a couple months; I didn't want to rub.
With the reinforcement plates in-place I tested the camber kit before install and realized I needed to trim a fair portion of the down lip of the plate as it interfered with the camber plate travel. This was irritating with my old dremel that didn't want to keep a metal cutting wheel in-place for long. I also forgot to order 2 thinking they came in sets of two (2 week delay in getting it done).
I also removed the spare tire support hanger. This left a few holes in the trunk metal, so i used a dremel to take out the plugs from the support hanger and plugged the holes. I'm just using a fix-a-flat kit and leaving that in the trunk with a small compressor. The spare tire doesn't hold air and getting them replaced is surprisingly expensive.
Inital ride is nice. Steering is MUCH tighter as the tie rods were very worn and the ball joints for the outers as well as the lcas had a lot of play. The drivers side also seemed to have some material between the inner and outer tie rods and felt partially seized (took a LOT to separate them).
Next up:
- Alignment (hoping this weekend or next)
- Looking at upgraded wheels/tires at the moment
- Making sure there are no more oil or coolant leaks
Long Term:
- Vanos Rebuild (showing signs of cold-start surging)
- Fix the passenger door
- Engine Mounts (want to check for any oil pan leaks, because if there are any those mounts are getting replaced when/if the pan gasket gets done)
Mushrooming on the Passenger Side - the hat was pretty warped as i had to lightly hammer the old strut assembly out.
Almost all the ball joint boots looked like this
new bits...mmm
cutting the reinforcement plate lip for the camber kit (i just liked seeing the sparks).
Front quarter shot (i'll get the door fixed eventually)
Profile Shot. Happy with the drop, but we'll see if the rear settles at all.
Installed Koni Sport Shocks (Front and Rear set to 180* from full firm at the moment), H&R Sport Springs, Front refresh (lcas, lca bushings, sway end links, and tie rods), front strut reinforcement plates, and added front camber plates
I bought a bunch of proper tools to get the job done, so if anyone needs to use the lollipop bushing removal/install tool or a nicer set of spring compressors (the ones that have the horse shoe plates) let me know. I also had to get a flat 32mm and 16mm spanner wrench for the tie rods and end links.
Whoever worked on the tie rods last installed the tie rods backwards and the front passenger tower was mushrooming a bit. I'm glad I put the plates in there as well as the camber kit since that spreads the load on the top a bit. The camber kit was also needed as I'm planning on adding a larger/wider wheel tire setup in a couple months; I didn't want to rub.
With the reinforcement plates in-place I tested the camber kit before install and realized I needed to trim a fair portion of the down lip of the plate as it interfered with the camber plate travel. This was irritating with my old dremel that didn't want to keep a metal cutting wheel in-place for long. I also forgot to order 2 thinking they came in sets of two (2 week delay in getting it done).
I also removed the spare tire support hanger. This left a few holes in the trunk metal, so i used a dremel to take out the plugs from the support hanger and plugged the holes. I'm just using a fix-a-flat kit and leaving that in the trunk with a small compressor. The spare tire doesn't hold air and getting them replaced is surprisingly expensive.
Inital ride is nice. Steering is MUCH tighter as the tie rods were very worn and the ball joints for the outers as well as the lcas had a lot of play. The drivers side also seemed to have some material between the inner and outer tie rods and felt partially seized (took a LOT to separate them).
Next up:
- Alignment (hoping this weekend or next)
- Looking at upgraded wheels/tires at the moment
- Making sure there are no more oil or coolant leaks
Long Term:
- Vanos Rebuild (showing signs of cold-start surging)
- Fix the passenger door
- Engine Mounts (want to check for any oil pan leaks, because if there are any those mounts are getting replaced when/if the pan gasket gets done)
Mushrooming on the Passenger Side - the hat was pretty warped as i had to lightly hammer the old strut assembly out.
Almost all the ball joint boots looked like this
new bits...mmm
cutting the reinforcement plate lip for the camber kit (i just liked seeing the sparks).
Front quarter shot (i'll get the door fixed eventually)
Profile Shot. Happy with the drop, but we'll see if the rear settles at all.
'19 Golf R
Intro
J Ray's Top Ten
Previous: '99 BMW Z3 2.8L | 2019 Honda Ridgeline | 2010 VW GTI | 2008 CBR 600RR | 2005 Nissan Titan SE King | 2003 Honda CBR 600RR | 1998 Integra RS | 1998 Suzuki GS500e | 1999 Honda Civic Si | 1986 VW GTI 8v
Intro
J Ray's Top Ten
Previous: '99 BMW Z3 2.8L | 2019 Honda Ridgeline | 2010 VW GTI | 2008 CBR 600RR | 2005 Nissan Titan SE King | 2003 Honda CBR 600RR | 1998 Integra RS | 1998 Suzuki GS500e | 1999 Honda Civic Si | 1986 VW GTI 8v