Homelite Mighty Lite 26CS
#21
I think you need to go at least stage 3 on this clutch and a .000001 lbs flywheel for the mad revs.
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#22
I dont know what adam is talking about. Every one I've ever had the head spins on crank. I would trim the lines a little bit though - on mine, anyway, i'm convinced that little bit of interference is sometimes enough to cause it to be finicky to start by slowing down the crank
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#23
HAULN-SS Wrote:I dont know what adam is talking about. Every one I've ever had the head spins on crank. I would trim the lines a little bit though - on mine, anyway, i'm convinced that little bit of interference is sometimes enough to cause it to be finicky to start by slowing down the crank

Yea... they shouldn't.... mine don't.

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The plates (if they are not gummed up with crap and the springs are not worn out) should not engage the output shaft at anything less than engine speeds above idle speed.

Also; starter fluid. Lots and lots of starter fluid.
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.

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#24
Technically, no, it shouldn't spin when cranking, but most do after some use and it generally isn't a problem. I wouldn't worry about it unless it affects cutting performance under load once you do get it started.

Starter fluid is a good idea, or you could take the spark plug out, clean it, and pour a tiny bit of gas into the cylinder and try to start it. That's worked for me before.
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#25
Ryan T Wrote:Starter fluid is a good idea, or you could take the spark plug out, clean it, and pour a tiny bit of gas into the cylinder and try to start it. That's worked for me before.

Followed your advice and tried this step this evening, together with cleaning up the carb with some carb cleaner spray and also giving liberal dosages of starter fluid. Summbish still doesn't want to come to life [Image: rsz_1y-u-so.jpg]
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#26
Does it have spark at all? If spark, and you are using starter fluid, and it still isn't kicking over at all, it may have low compression / a melted piston / a hole in the piston.
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.

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1995 BMW 540i/A
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
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#27
Did you take the carb off and clean all the ports and blow it out? Have you had the exhaust manifold off yet?

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#28
Sully Wrote:Did you take the carb off and clean all the ports and blow it out? Have you had the exhaust manifold off yet?

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If not, I guarantee the exhaust is full of oil and crud.

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Current:
2011 F150 Platinum | 1995 BMW 325i 1983 BMW 320i  The MMoped | 2008 BMW 128i
Past:
1996 Toyota Tacoma: | 1992 Mazda Miata | 2002 BMW 325i |
2003 Toyota Tacoma | 1995 Miata M Edition | 1997 Subaru Outback |
1992 Mazda Miata | 1990 BMW 325i  | 2007 Toyota 4Runner | 
1995 Ford Windstar 1987 BMW 325i | 1987 BMW 325 | 1990 BMW 325i Vert |
2018 VW GTI | 1990 Mazda Miata | 
1989 BMW 325i Vert 2015 Fiesta ST | 1983 BMW 320i parts car
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#29
That too maybe. Usually, the problem I've seen is carbon build up around the exhaust port. So bad that it's maybe 1/4 of its original size

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2004 Honda S2000
2001 F-150 4X4 6" lift on 37" tires
2007 GSX-R 600
2008 SX-R 800

1992 (slammed by PO) 240sx Coupe (SOLD)
1999 BMW POS ///M3(SOLD)
1998 Honda Civic EX beater (SOLD)
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#30
Carb yes (it could probably stand to be done again, but improvements were made), but not muffler yet. I forgot you suggested that - I'll get to that next :thumbup:
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#31
I had a chainsaw that I couldn't keep running. I sprayed the carb with cleaner several times but wasn't till I took it all the way off and sprayed every port and fuel connection and then sprayed again with compressed air that it ran well. I'm surprised that didn't work for you.

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2004 Honda S2000
2001 F-150 4X4 6" lift on 37" tires
2007 GSX-R 600
2008 SX-R 800

1992 (slammed by PO) 240sx Coupe (SOLD)
1999 BMW POS ///M3(SOLD)
1998 Honda Civic EX beater (SOLD)
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