+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i (/showthread.php?tid=11551)
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - SlimKlim - 01-30-2018
Or like, buy a new goddamn hose?
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - JPolen01 - 01-30-2018
(01-30-2018, 12:22 PM)SlimKlim Wrote: Or like, buy a new goddamn car?
FTFY
DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - *insertusernamehere* - 01-30-2018
Or just get rid of the fire extinguisher and let nature take its course
Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - ScottyB - 01-30-2018
(01-30-2018, 12:22 PM)SlimKlim Wrote: Or like, buy a new goddamn hose?
quitter talk.
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Senor_Taylor - 02-05-2018
So, I replaced the fuel filter, both soft fuel lines to to fuel rail, and a couple vacuum hoses to the brake booster. The old lines were essentially hard plastic and would crack audibly when you bent them. I also replaced all of the hose clamps with injector clamps like the Bavarian gods intended.
The only issue now is I can't get the car to start at all. I cranked on it for probably 30-45 minutes before giving up and it won't even attempt to start. I loosened the hose going to the fuel pressure regulator and very high pressure gas sprayed out, so I know there is pressure at the rail. I was certain my no start issue was fuel related before.
My start has also always made a really loud clack clack clack noise when engaged but as I kept trying later and later into the night, it would also start to make a loud POP noise after a couple seconds on the key. It sounds mechanical, but Jake initially thought it was an after fire. I'm starting to think it could also be the solenoid not getting enough power and trying to connect and disconnect or something? My lights always flicker at night like my alternator is going out, but the voltage at the battery is good.
There are problems, but I don't know what's related. I'm WFH for a few more hours then I'll go down to the garage to try again, check the fuel management fuses, and try to poke around. I don't really want to spend the money on new relays for the start up process, but that may be what I have to do. I also don't think I mixed up any vacuum hoses or unplugged any sensors, but I always was out there for like 8 hours and was tired. I'll report back.
Edit: Also, does anyone know where to get that weird vacuum hose for the idle air valve? it's like 10 mm on one end and like 16 on the other.
DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Senor_Taylor - 02-05-2018
Anyone know what this could possibly be? Flywheel missing teeth? Did my clutch explode? Did I snap a rocker or is a piston hitting a valve?
I can't imagine anything that bad would happen randomly after swapping fuel lines. Could trying to crank with no start for so long somehow starve it of oil or lubrication and break something.
https://youtu.be/czFePOpeTrA
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - ScottyB - 02-05-2018
Not to insult your intelligence but you didn't touch any ignition stuff right? After cranking that long you could be putting a lot of stress on the starter or battery which might explain the starter popping...sounds like it's engaging and disengaging randomly.
Flickering lights makes me think you have a bad ground if your voltage is good. I don't think you're banging internals, there's no reason that would happen and if you did it long enough youd probably lose compression on that cylinder and feel it
It's a bit Overkill but you could try bump starting it with the clutch if you have someone else pull it around the parking lot. If it starts and runs that way you'll know it's the starter.
I probably wouldn't crank on it too long per session. You'll start washing the cylinder walls with fuel
DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - ViPER1313 - 02-05-2018
#1. Charge your battery. Your starter might just be banging against the flywheel teeth because it can’t move quickly enough. It sounds really slow/ weak.
#2. Check for spark.
#3. Check if your injectors are firing.
DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Senor_Taylor - 02-05-2018
Okay, thanks guys. I'm 99% certain the starter is engaging and turning the motor over but I'll check. Voltages on the battery have always been good, but that's not always an indication the battery is good. I've searched for grounds everywhere for the light flicker but I do think it's the alternator since revving it up to 1000 make them steady usually. I didn't touch anything ignition related.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - ScottyB - 02-06-2018
to Adam's third point, you mentioned the lines were super crumbly. i wonder if a rubber chunk dislodged and got into the fuel rail and is impeding the injectors. checking the injectors for firing a spray pulse would show that.
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - .RJ - 02-06-2018
Could have gotten vapor locked, too.
I think at this point this car is causing a lot of frustration, so it might be time to take a pause and work through the car system by system - fuel, ignition, air/vacuum, testing relays/connections/grounds at each step and replacing what isnt functioning right. Its a pain in the ass, but otherwise you're just chasing one issue after another.
DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Senor_Taylor - 02-06-2018
All good points. What's a good way to test if an injector is spraying? I know the screwdriver trick to listen to it.
What's solution to vapor lock?
I did take the pressure regulator off the fuel rail and leave the rail open for a few hours, perhaps something got in there.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - .RJ - 02-06-2018
I'm not sure, just because its firing doesnt mean it's not clogged or leaky.
Is there anyone local that can clean/rebuild them?
DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Senor_Taylor - 02-06-2018
I feel like we're putting the cart before the horse. The engine doesn't attempt to fire AT ALL. No gas smell coming out of the exhaust either. That would be a crazy coincidence for all the injectors to go at once.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - .RJ - 02-06-2018
well, get a factory service manual and start working through the systems. maybe a relay went tits up? maybe a ground got nicked? maybe there's a ghost?
if the weather isnt shit this weekend I can lend a hand.
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Senor_Taylor - 02-06-2018
Yeah, that's what I'll have to do. I'd really appreciate a hand. I've got a heater in my garage if that's any consolation.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Jake - 02-06-2018
(02-06-2018, 11:15 AM).RJ Wrote: I'm not sure, just because its firing doesnt mean it's not clogged or leaky.
Is there anyone local that can clean/rebuild them?
InjectorPulse.com, bringing life back to your injectors!
X is a NASA racer/compliance director and based out of Virginia Beach. He'd have a quick enough turnaround.
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - D_Eclipse9916 - 02-06-2018
(02-06-2018, 12:05 PM)Jake Wrote:(02-06-2018, 11:15 AM).RJ Wrote: I'm not sure, just because its firing doesnt mean it's not clogged or leaky.
Is there anyone local that can clean/rebuild them?
InjectorPulse.com, bringing life back to your injectors!
X is a NASA racer/compliance director and based out of Virginia Beach. He'd have a quick enough turnaround.
As much as X is great for service, I doubt your injectors would go all bad at once. Funnier things have happened, but I would look at other low hanging fruit first.
Let's first diagnose why it won't start before figuring out all the other issues. And don't just keep trying to fire it, stop, take a minute to check things first.
You check fuel/spark yet?
You say it's not even trying to fire, you need to find out why first.
Check fuel pressure using the schraeder valve and free rental tool from autozone after checking the above. All that cranking can do odd things like pop fuel relays and burn down grounds.
Did you pull your spark plugs after deciding to fry your starter by turning it over for 40 minutes? Wouldn't be surprised to see if they are completely doused in fuel.
Also sounds like your starter is engaging and releasing slowly. Pull it out and do a quick check on the bench. Not why it wouldnt start but that thing doesnt sound healthy.
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Ken - 02-06-2018
(02-05-2018, 09:28 PM)ScottyB Wrote: It's a bit Overkill but you could try bump starting it with the clutch if you have someone else pull it around the parking lot. If it starts and runs that way you'll know it's the starter.
Just using my normal troubleshooting techniques that i do with technology etc. - i would give this a shot, wouldn't that rule out some of the other items being discussed?
RE: DirtE30 - 1990 BMW 325i - Senor_Taylor - 02-10-2018
Okay, pulled the plugs and they looked like this. All were fouled and #1 was bent? Not sure when/how that happened but it doesn't bode well.
![[Image: Tprj7c0.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/Tprj7c0.jpg)
Replaced those with the most suitable bosch plugs at Advance. Still no start.
Tested Spark and I've got it but it's an orange/red spark, which doesn't seem right. I'm fairly certain it's supposed to be blue, but that may have just been because of what I was grounding it to not being good.
There is fuel pressure at the rail and I double checked the fuel line routing from the tank to the rail.
Checked the resistance from the CPS and it looked correct, but that's not always indicative of it working correctly. Pulled all of the relays and sanded/cleaned the pins. Swapped a few around, no luck.
Chased wires looking for shorts, missing grounds, or pins pulling from connectors, nothing.
Checked the oil and it isn't milky so I don't think I've lost compression from a blown headgasket.
Checked the voltage at the battery and it was 11.85, likely due to all of the cranking. One thing to note, the starter did not make any bad noises, no loud pop, and none of the usual clacking it does when I turned it over without the spark plugs in.
It is so odd that it refused to start like this after replacing two vacuum hoses and some fuel lines. It has to be related but I don't know what else to look at in that regard.
I need some help pushing it, but a push start could be another test we use. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll charge the battery and order a new CPS and Main Engine Relay. I'd rather have some evidence to suggest they are faulty before I spend the money, though. After that, I guess either the ECU would be fried or something like that. I guess I'd test that. do a compression test and fuel pressure test or something.