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+--- Thread: 2010 BMW 135i (/showthread.php?tid=10657)
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - Goodspeed - 04-16-2014
SlimKlim Wrote:chucklefuck
![[Image: 534ec8871c1c6.gif]](http://cloud.dloaded.com/i/534ec8871c1c6.gif)
+100 internets to you today :lol:
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - fiveoh2go - 04-16-2014
RawrImAMonster Wrote:Power-wise the plan is to just get an intake and tune it.Riiiight...
![[Image: goodfellas-laugh-gif2.gif?w=700&h=394]](http://semlalie.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/goodfellas-laugh-gif2.gif?w=700&h=394)
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Now put an LSD in itCan't believe that isn't factory installed. The ultimate driving machine?
Nice pickup, now crank up the boost! :twisted:
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - RawrImAMonster - 04-16-2014
SlimKlim Wrote:I assume the planned tune will also sharpen up the throttle response? I feel like such a chucklefuck trying to drive Jake's car. My brain is hardwired to my old school car and having the clutch and throttle each react half a second later than I expect them to really throws me off my groove.
Not sure about the throttle response. I haven't really seen any information about it one way or the other. I'm going to be going with the JB4+ dual cone intakes for ~$600. I like that it auto-tunes to whatever mods you have so you don't have to follow Cobb's upgrade path if you don't want to. I think it also comes with the cable for datalogging and clearing codes and such.
Also, I ordered some whiter bulbs for the angel eyes so that they match the HID color when they are on. Can't stand the way that the angel eyes are amber when the main lights are white.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - SlimKlim - 04-16-2014
I dunno if the JB4 affects throttle response, I'd hope it would. I think you can set up the JB4 to have a 2-step feature and no-lift shifting. You should DEFINITELY make that happen.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - RawrImAMonster - 04-16-2014
SlimKlim Wrote:I dunno if the JB4 affects throttle response, I'd hope it would. I think you can set up the JB4 to have a 2-step feature and no-lift shifting. You should DEFINITELY make that happen.
Yep.
Quote:Other features include optional in dash gauges for boost and other engine parameters, a programmable shift light, on the fly adjustable torque limiting to aid with launches at the track, an optional 2STEP rev limiter & no lift shifting for manual transmission cars, an optional speed delimiter, and much more.
The gear specific boost limiting is an awesome feature as well. Especially since these are lacking a LSD from the factory.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - Jake - 04-16-2014
Pretty sure the tunes can and will improve throttle response. If I swap my intake manifold, I'm doing a tune, and even sans-boostmachines, I can still get enough tweaked to make the car even better.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - Beej - 04-16-2014
Maybe I'm missing something or maybe it's just a lexical issue. In my head:
Throttle response: how quickly the engine/throttle responds when your foot tells it do so something.
Pedal sensitivity: the "curve" of how far the throttle is opened vs. what percentage of the pedal travel is used.
The latter is easily changed with a tune these days. The former...not really much you can do without changing hardware, no? I've got drive-by-wire and can change pedal sensitivity to 1 of 2 modes with a stupid button. In neither case would I call the throttle response slow, or affected by pedal sensitivity or drive-by-wire vs physical cable.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - SlimKlim - 04-16-2014
I'd guess your E46 M3 has a much sharper response from the factory than a non-M 1-series. On most drive by wire cars I've driven, there is a small delay between an input in the pedal and the motor actually reacting. Be it breathing on it just to inch the car forward or giving it the boot.
It's not that noticeable in a 2-pedal car, I've either got my foot on the throttle or I don't, and then the power feels slightly elastic anyway because of the turbo. But if you're used to driving, say, a '95 M3 with an old old school drive-by-cable throttle, a half-second delay in the throttle pedal really throws you off your groove.
It's only really an issue when you're starting from a stop, you have to hit the throttle pedal more than you feel like you should, and with the CDV you have to let the clutch out faster than you feel like you should. The other big thing is I can rev match the M3 just giving it the slightest tap with my pinky toe, in the 128i you basically have to smack the throttle all the way to the floor for a second to actually get the revs up. Otherwise it isn't an issue, and if you're more used to a modern car than I am, it probably doesn't bother you at all.
Pedal sensitivity is another thing that drives me nuts. My mom's 5 speed Scion TC opens like 80% of the throttle in the first 15% of pedal travel. The pedal goes down like another 3 inches with absolutely no effect. I think they try to make it feel "sporty," but it just makes it super jerky and irritating to drive.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - RawrImAMonster - 04-16-2014
CDV delete done. I'm not so sure that those lines aren't going to leak without that piece in there. I'm going to take a look again this weekend to see if it has leaked at all. If it has, I will just modify the stock valve so that it doesn't restrict flow and put it back in.
Having said that, the clutch feels way better now. Much more direct and responsive. I didn't get to do a ton of city driving on the way back home, but it definitely seemed a lot better.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - D_Eclipse9916 - 04-17-2014
RawrImAMonster Wrote:CDV delete done. I'm not so sure that those lines aren't going to leak without that piece in there. I'm going to take a look again this weekend to see if it has leaked at all. If it has, I will just modify the stock valve so that it doesn't restrict flow and put it back in.
Having said that, the clutch feels way better now. Much more direct and responsive. I didn't get to do a ton of city driving on the way back home, but it definitely seemed a lot better.
Shouldn't be a problem. I am not familiar with 1 series, but every stick shift bmw since the early 90s was literally unplug, plug back in without CDV and you are done.
No, seriously. Do the LSD first. I couldn't own a BMW without one. What's the point of power if you cant put it down sideways? :twisted:
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - SlimKlim - 04-17-2014
How much does it cost to get an LSD in one of those things? Can you just get the whole pumpkin to swap in?
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - RawrImAMonster - 04-17-2014
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:RawrImAMonster Wrote:CDV delete done. I'm not so sure that those lines aren't going to leak without that piece in there. I'm going to take a look again this weekend to see if it has leaked at all. If it has, I will just modify the stock valve so that it doesn't restrict flow and put it back in.
Having said that, the clutch feels way better now. Much more direct and responsive. I didn't get to do a ton of city driving on the way back home, but it definitely seemed a lot better.
Shouldn't be a problem. I am not familiar with 1 series, but every stick shift bmw since the early 90s was literally unplug, plug back in without CDV and you are done.
No, seriously. Do the LSD first. I couldn't own a BMW without one. What's the point of power if you cant put it down sideways? :twisted:
I want to make sure I like it and that I'm going to want to keep it for a while before I drop 2000+ on a LSD.
SlimKlim Wrote:How much does it cost to get an LSD in one of those things? Can you just get the whole pumpkin to swap in?
Yeah you can get the whole pumpkin. It's about 2500 for the quaife after the refundable core exchange. I think wavetrac is a few hundred cheaper but some people have been having issues with those making clunking noises.
Edit: Looks like you can get the wavetrac for 1500 after the core exchange: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.n54tuning.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=81">http://www.n54tuning.com/index.php?_a=v ... oductId=81</a><!-- m -->
That is a very tempting price. But still I want to wait a while to make sure I'm going to like this car.
Double Edit: I read that wrong, it says the price is +1500 in addition to the 1200. Fuck these stupid welded ring gears.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - *insertusernamehere* - 04-17-2014
Dude. You drove past me the other day and the white is THE COLOR to get this car in. Don't get black wheels if you ever change em. It kills it. Stick with bright silver. Looks :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: (the rain maaaayy have made it look extra shiny but we'll ignore that)
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - ScottyB - 04-17-2014
oh man that color combo is Tits McGee. nice job there.
looking forward to seeing this become an extra-badass daily...i keep hearing about how easy it is to get silly power very easily in these things and want to see it happen in this thread!
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - RawrImAMonster - 04-18-2014
*insertusernamehere* Wrote:Dude. You drove past me the other day and the white is THE COLOR to get this car in. Don't get black wheels if you ever change em. It kills it. Stick with bright silver. Looks :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: (the rain maaaayy have made it look extra shiny but we'll ignore that)
I actually really like the stock M-sport wheels that are on it. I'll probably keep these for a while. I do like the white/black setups on these cars though.
Found a new feature last night. Hand washing the car with the smart key in your pocket makes the locks go nuts. It has a feature where you touch the door in a certain spot with your finger and it will lock the door as long as you have the key with you. I guess this is sort of like phones in that it relies on you being able to transmit static electricity. Anyway, somehow the water screws with it enough that it constantly locks and unlocks the doors when you are spraying it.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - SlimKlim - 04-18-2014
Those M-sports are 18s right? They do look really good on the car. My favorites are the older 135i 5-spokes though. They also look surprisingly good on E36s.
My buddy used to run them on his M54 build:
![[Image: 100-8800.jpg]](http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae356/jayjaya292/BMW%20Meet%20and%20Cruise%2004-24-10/100-8800.jpg)
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - Jake - 04-18-2014
RawrImAMonster Wrote:Found a new feature last night. Hand washing the car with the smart key in your pocket makes the locks go nuts. It has a feature where you touch the door in a certain spot with your finger and it will lock the door as long as you have the key with you. I guess this is sort of like phones in that it relies on you being able to transmit static electricity. Anyway, somehow the water screws with it enough that it constantly locks and unlocks the doors when you are spraying it.
Oh, yeah. I have to hide the keys upstairs when I wash the car. Fwiw, my Focus with the smart key did it, too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - Ken - 04-18-2014
RawrImAMonster Wrote:Found a new feature last night. Hand washing the car with the smart key in your pocket makes the locks go nuts. It has a feature where you touch the door in a certain spot with your finger and it will lock the door as long as you have the key with you. I guess this is sort of like phones in that it relies on you being able to transmit static electricity. Anyway, somehow the water screws with it enough that it constantly locks and unlocks the doors when you are spraying it.
That used to happen all the time with my old Ralliart, I guess that's why they switched to a button on my car, used to happen in the rain too.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - SlimKlim - 04-18-2014
Huh, maybe that's why the Kia uses a little button too, I thought they were just cheaping out.
Re: 2010 BMW 135i - JPolen01 - 04-18-2014
Don't leave the smart key in the car when working on it. It will drain the battery.