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+--- Thread: The MM Network (/showthread.php?tid=11439)
RE: The MM Network - Apoc - 12-14-2017
(12-14-2017, 03:24 PM)Evan Wrote: My poops have never been so productive.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.enki.insights
Now you're talking my language.
RE: The MM Network - .RJ - 12-14-2017
(12-14-2017, 04:20 PM)Jake Wrote: Congrats, Cabell!!
I have also signed something:
Starting in March, so that I can stick around here long enough to get my end-of-year bonus paid out.
Consulting gig?
I just got a bonus and a raise, I'm inclined to stay where I'm at and keep my 3 mile commute for the time being, at least until my wife's job situation pans out.
She's got an application in the works, but was also just told she's going to be cut from her contract (on site @ SEC downtown), and this is a bit of a problem since her TS clearance is about a month out from completion.
RE: The MM Network - V1GiLaNtE - 12-15-2017
OOOOOO Jake. Congrats man!! I know a couple of Deloitte folks that headed there. It seems like a great company! Are you going to be in the Tyson's office?
RE: The MM Network - WRXtranceformed - 12-15-2017
Congrats everyone! Great news all around! MMers making big moves!
The MM Network - JustinG - 12-15-2017
Congrats Jake. So staying in Nova? Or making a move?
RE: The MM Network - Evan - 01-04-2018
It must be quitting season.
Im starting a new gig on monday.
RE: The MM Network - ScottyB - 01-05-2018
if anyone's looking for custom woodworking (household goods, not architectural stuff) or gifts, i've started doing it as side work with a local buddy. mostly cutting boards and wall mounted bottle openers right now. we'll be getting into side tables, lamps, phone docks and kitchen items this year. no CNC machine yet which is probably good because i'd shoot my eye out with it.
![[Image: aYwfUJYh.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/aYwfUJYh.jpg)
https://www.etsy.com/shop/LeaphWoodshop
MM'er pricing applies.
RE: The MM Network - JPolen01 - 01-05-2018
How do you recommend cleaning wood cutting boards after prepping meat/chicken on them? I like the look of a lot of wood cutting boards, but I am afraid that juices/blood will make their way into the cracks (caused by knives) and not really ever get cleaned with simple dish soap.
RE: The MM Network - ScottyB - 01-05-2018
(01-05-2018, 11:21 AM)JPolen01 Wrote: How do you recommend cleaning wood cutting boards after prepping meat/chicken on them? I like the look of a lot of wood cutting boards, but I am afraid that juices/blood will make their way into the cracks (caused by knives) and not really ever get cleaned with simple dish soap.
that's a really common, and worthy question with so many synthetic material boards out there.
soap and water is totally fine, and for a board that will see meat its important that its constructed from a hardwood that is suitable for the job. some people pass off "cutting boards" and blocks out of softwoods or large-pore, cheap hardwoods like oak or poplar which is a big no-no for harboring bacteria, as they can hide in the cut marks and pores. if a board is cracked, split, or chipped badly, put it straight in the fireplace or garbage.
that said, a proper hardwood board is extremely safe to use and comparably safe, or safe than plastic, for instance. the FDA is completely fine with restaurants using wood butcher block counters if properly cleaned and cared for. you can research the sanitary elements of wood prep surfaces, but lets just say its worked for centuries for a reason.
anyway, what's super important is that you DON'T let the board sit in water, ever. never dunk it and let it sit, don't leave it in a puddle, no dishwasher obviously. just soap, rinse, and either towel dry or air drip dry immediately. if you let it stay wet, the wood will swell and quickly crack and split as the wood soaks up the water and has no where to expand but outward. many a pretty end-grain board in particular has died this way.
after its dry, the other critical thing is you keep the wood oiled and conditioned. you can get food safe mineral oil (its tasteless) and wax conditioners anywhere, including home depot. the oil soaks in and keeps the wood malleable, somewhat waterproof, and sanitary. the wax conditioner adds an element of waterproofing to further aid cleaning and safety. application is dead simple - just dump out the product onto the board and wipe it in with a paper towel. if the board "eats it up", keep adding more until the wood won't soak it in. then let it sit, and come back and buff it with another paper towel. i usually do wax every other use and oil + wax in sequence every 4th use or so. no harm in doing it every time if you want. properly cared for, a wood cutting surface is useful for decades, potentially generations, with minor resurfacing along the way.
i use Howard products. there are a hundred other choices too, use whatever's easy to get, they all do the same basic thing.
![[Image: 41EwB%2BBuZsL._AC_UL320_SR244,320_.jpg]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41EwB%2BBuZsL._AC_UL320_SR244,320_.jpg)
and for the love of all that's holy, don't ever get one of those marble stone cutting boards. that is straight up knife abuse and should be punishable by law.
![[Image: f9e.gif]](http://i3.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/000/620/434/f9e.gif)
RE: The MM Network - Apoc - 01-05-2018
Our cutting board is roughly 20 years old, as it was a hand me down.We just use cheapo thin plastic cutting sheets on top of our giant wood block. You can easily pick food up to dump it in a pan and put the sheet in the sink or dishwasher to clean it. We never have to bother cleaning the heavy wood block board underneath. The sheets are like $1.50 each and come in packs, so you just toss them when they wear out in a few years.
RE: The MM Network - ScottyB - 01-05-2018
we have the same stuff here in our house too. sometimes its the right tool for the job, and there's a reason almost everyone uses them.
i like the wood for bigger cutting jobs where you want some stability or need to really put some heft into the cut. just nice to have, but not necessary, like most stuff.
The MM Network - Sully - 01-05-2018
Definitely interested in these at some point down the road. Maybe after you get a cnc machine if that's the eventual plan. I have a pretty awesome bulldog (looks like Duke dog) bottle opener I found and ordered from some company in England and I want to do a badass wood mount down the road sometime for it. Not for awhile cause I don't really have a place to hang it in the apartment. Nice work though. I watch the videos how to do woodwork like this all the time but I don't have the motivation to practice on nice hardwood like that. The one time I went to woodcraft or whatever it called, I was quickly overwhelmed by their pricing system and how much pieces cost.
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RE: The MM Network - ScottyB - 01-05-2018
find someone who is a local cabinetmaker and see if they have boards that are going to a dumpster or they need to clean out. those guys typically use stuff like birch, cherry, walnut and oak which are all great to start with and usually in small "shorts" boards which are easy to just go toss in your car.
don't buy wood through Woodcraft and their tools are just OK. you can find the deals online. if you need a hand getting a tool list together i can steer you a bit.
i really didn't get into this in earnest until about 6 months ago and i started with very few decent hand tools and a couple old or handed down power tools. my current stuff still isn't anything special. you need a few primary tools and the rest are only necessary for specialized stuff as you get more skill.
The MM Network - Sully - 01-07-2018
On the subject of woodworking, I snagged a small tree at work a little while back and cut it down into discs (bark still on) for coasters. I then read I would have waited for it to be dry but whatever. So far none have cracked but I don't really care if they do this time around. My original plan was to poly them to seal them up from the moisture and prevent them from drying out to the point the bark separates. Would I be better off oiling then with some butcher block oil instead?
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RE: The MM Network - ScottyB - 01-08-2018
nah, poly if you intend for them to get wet from the condensation on a glass and i'd wager it'll help seal the bark together structurally.
with poly, something i've found helpful in my experience is to cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits on first application. the mineral spirits will help carry the poly into any gaps and really penetrate the grain. if you choose to do a second coat, do that with a 75/25 mix with 75 being poly.
The MM Network - Sully - 01-08-2018
Hmm I'll have to give that a try. Thanks!
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RE: The MM Network - ScottyB - 01-08-2018
sure - and i forgot to add, that is with oil based poly. the water based stuff won't like being mixed up with thinners. pick up a quart of Minwax "fast drying polyurethane" in your favorite flavor of gloss for $12 at home despot and you're good to go.
The MM Network - Sully - 01-27-2018
Quick question for you business guys. What's the follow up protocol? Is it common to follow up before being contacted by the company the first time? Like I get the follow up after the first interview or even the first contact but what about if you apply and don't hear anything, would you guys find a way to reach out to them? Which presents another problem with who would you contact since you haven't been contacted by anyone. So would you just call the general customer service number and ask to be transferred to the appropriate department?
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RE: The MM Network - .RJ - 01-27-2018
(01-27-2018, 10:48 AM)Sully Wrote: what about if you apply and don't hear anything
Get used to it, unfortunately.
The MM Network - Sully - 01-27-2018
Yea I understand it but I have people telling me I'm not getting interviews because I don't follow up with applications put in and not showing the companies my level of interest. Basically just confirming that you follow up after being contacted at least once and not before.
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