Project 1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic

[Jeff]

sweet bumper. wish i could have found a deal on one of those.

[premiershine9]

sweet bumper. wish i could have found a deal on one of those.

X2....my 32 spare is slowly killing my hinges, tailgate always has a problem closing :lol:

[V1GiLaNtE]

Gah so I'm trying to wire up these Kc fog lights I got with the bumper.. Following this diagram..



Using a 5 prong 30amp auto relay from advanced, 16ga wire... got everything squared away and yet no lights.. Hooked the 12v source into the cig lighter where my Hellas are wired into.. Any particular areas I should go back and check..?

[Sully]

I would have to go back and check but I thought that 87 and 87a were both power out except 87a is power out before relay switches on and 87 is power out after relay switch terminal recieves 12v signal

Edit: ignore that and let me get on my computer because my memory is completley wrong I think

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[Sully]

Ok, I think I was right, becasue I am almost positive that this diagram is similar to the one I used and I rember terminal 30 being 12v from battery in and 86 being ground. You can ignore the indicator led and stuff but this one has a good view of the terminals


I also suggest wiring up a bypass wire straight from 85 to a reverse light 12v+ so the lights will come on with your reverse lights as well, I tihnk that should work no problem but my rear bumper lights have two relays and two switches, I have a diagram drawn up somewhere but that came to me at 1AM some night in the past. I would have to tihnk how and why I did it like that but I believe it was so I can turn off the reverse trigger wire as well and also have the lights on without the reverse trigger wire switch on or something :evileye:

[Jeff]

I like to do mine negative trigger so you would hook 85 and 30 together with one fuse and then your switch would simply ground the 86 to turn on the lamps. Less load on the switch that way. That is really a byproduct of my frequent installing of Alarms witch everything MUST be negative trigger because they are all low side drivers. If you need any help you can call me. Jake or Goodspeed should have my number.

[V1GiLaNtE]

So Justin was conveniently on my side of town yesterday. We went over the some stuff in the Martins parking lot and came to the conclusion 12v switched source wasn't getting juice.. Went out with some friends and got back home around 1 in the morning.. Perfect time to mess with electrical! We were right, 12v splice wasn't giving switch juice do to the wire shield being a little too thick.. Changed out the wire.. Them babies fired right up.. pretty bright.. I'll have a whole pic/write-up later today when I get everything in the truck tucked up and tidy... Thanks Sir Gallamore and thanks for yalls quick responses in the help.. Wiring is always fun as you know cause it's always something little preventing success

[D_Eclipse9916]

I like to do mine negative trigger so you would hook 85 and 30 together with one fuse and then your switch would simply ground the 86 to turn on the lamps. Less load on the switch that way. That is really a byproduct of my frequent installing of Alarms witch everything MUST be negative trigger because they are all low side drivers. If you need any help you can call me. Jake or Goodspeed should have my number.

+1 any switches in my car all run negative triggers.

[Jeff]

Fun Fact - I actually converted my OEM fog lamps on the XJ over to negative trigger because the load kept melting the factory switch. The OEM should have know as much as I do!

[V1GiLaNtE]

Jeff.. Kinda like this?



So 85/30 would be hooked together to the fuse running off the battery?

[Jeff]

No. That is a positive trigger negative output. See think of a relay as a remotely fired valve. Anything going in 30 comes out 87 (or the other way around). 86 and 85 function by connecting 30 to 87 when a circuit is completed across them. You can complete this circuit by either negative trigger or positive trigger. The other (either negative or positive) needs to be available at 85 or 86 when the other is applied. So a negative trigger for a positive source would be a fused B+ hooked to 86 and 87 and your negative (to ground) trigger when you want current coming out of 30 would be hooked to 85. I always use 30 as my output. If you wanted negative trigger (like that there) you see they hook 85 and 30 to ground because they want ground coming out of 87 and they want it done by applying 12v to 86.

[Jeff]

Oh, I see your note there. Yes 87 and 85 (how I like to do it) would be f 1used2V B+ and 30 would be output to the lights. Then you would simply ground 86 when you want lights on!

[V1GiLaNtE]

So if you remember I got a pair of KC fogs that came with my Tomken bumper I picked up last week.. Well I had dreams of mounting them in the back as what I would like to call "Camp" lights.. Basically they would be there for tasks which a flashlight wouldn't always be handy(I always have one but you never know) or requires both hands.. The guy I got them from said the PO had rolled the jeep so I was taking a complete gamble these lights even worked..

Here's what I started with..


One of the frames was cracked and the other had a hole in the top..



Basically nothing creativity, JB weld, and sanding couldn't fix so I used jb weld a a filler cause it's cheap, easy to work with, and sets like stone..



Gloves are always a good afterthought when doing these kinds of things..


So got em all sanded up and smoothed out.. Taped em up and hit them with a coat of that truck liner I had for my bumper lying around.. Gave em a good look.


I knew I wanted them mounted right under the bumper flush and evenly spaced so they would have a good look to them. I reused the mounting brackets that came with them to mount it underneath. There was a good 1.5" gap between the bracket and the spot I drilled in the rear latch lid so I used a nice fat rubber stopper I got from Lowes to act like a bushing between the washer and the latch lid for each mount. So 1 3/8 bolt, then washer, then "bushing",4 washers, 2 lock rings, and the nut gave me my secure mounting point. I need a bolt long enough to give me space but had to properly space due to the last part of those hex bolts not being threaded..


Got all of the mounting done in my driveway so far they looked good. Wiring happened on Saturday..




Saturday spend most of the morning/afternoon running wires, tucking and securing them to the frame and over all electrical funnsies.. Runing wire to a standard 12v 30amp auto fuse controlled by a switch in the cab.. Got everything squared away no lights...You guys already know this via my previous post.

Justin was on my side of town, thanks to you sir for your deviation of evening plans to look over my shit.. and thanks to Casey for patiently waiting in the car whilst Justin and I inspected it in the grocery store parking lot...:thumbup:
Anywho determined the 12v for the switch wasn't getting juice so I was on my merry way.. Went out Saturday evening came home at 1 am and was determined to fix it.. STILL not even knowing if the lights even work.. Changed out the connection and WAHLA! Lights are good to go. I'm pretty happy with them. I believe they're 55w and being in line on the same plane as the bumper shoot a pretty decent beam out. Still deciding on switch placement but that's about all I have left for this little project.. I think overall between wiring,hardware, relay I might have spent about ~$25 to wire up some "free" KC's..

Behind


Beside


Shooting out


Herrafrush

[ScottyB]

i guess if anyone's ever tailgating you too much at night you could flick those on :lol:

looks good!

[V1GiLaNtE]

Guess I'll update this.

~2.5" lift is now being reworked for 3/3.5". Picking up springs hopefully at the end of the week and then need to buy adj track bar.
Already have other s10 leaves, rubicon shocks, hardware to do lift just have to piece together other components.

C4x4 Tow hooks installed. Thank god I haven't had to use them yet but they're beefy and tie into the frame.
31x10.5R15's purchased and installed this past tuesday. Really helped at the skills day on saturday.

Other than that not much else to report on.

[V1GiLaNtE]

Updates:

Proposed Winter Maintenance

- Trans Fluid and Filter
- Transfer Case Fluid
- Oil Change
- Extended Rear Brake Line with Fluid Flush/Change

And most likely picking up another 31x10.5 with 3/4 tread for $50 so I now have a full size spare to match ones on the Jeep..235 spare is not going to cut it..

Other than that still gathering parts for 3" lift direction.. Mainly just need to find some coils and continue saving for IRO adjustable track bar(big expense).

Have:
s10 leaf pack
Rubicon Shocks
Extended Rear Bump stops(installed)

Need
TJ Extended Rear Brake Line
3" Front Coils
Bar pin eliminators for front and rear
Steering Stabilizer
IRO Adjustable Track Bar

[Goodspeed]

Awesome! So what was the motivation behind bumping up the height? I'm considering a 2" for mine to fit a bit more tire, make it look "right", and kill a few more zombies but everyone is like ZOMG 3.5" OR BUST. J/W what your thoughts are.

Trans - are you going to power flush it or drain and fill?

[BLAIR]

Wanna to buy a slightly used RE 3.5 inch lift off my 01, its an all new rear leaf not add a leaf junk. I even have a transfer case w an sye. My RE 5.5 off my 92 is going on the 01.

[Ginger]

How much are you looking for, Blair?

[BLAIR]

Something like 50 cents on the dollar of what is was new. It can't be more than 6 months old. $350 ish for the lift stuff. I have to look at what the sye transfer case is worth. But u can get away w dropping the transfer case.