Need in Harrisonburg: C clamp for spreading calipers

[xvxax]

My trucks brakes decided to self destruct today.
I have already purchased way too many tools that I already own at home, so does anyone have a C clamp suitable for spreading apart the pistons on my brake calipers? I will only need it for a few hours, I'll buy you a beer in exchange, and you can have a can of brake clean if you want it (it was buy one, get one free and I have 2 cans at home). Thanks a bunch.

[G.Irish]

Don't know how f'ed your brakes are but it is considerably easier to push the pistons back into the caliper if you put a brake bleeding hose on the bleeder nipple and open the bleeder screw. That way you can push the piston back in much more easily without drawing air into your system.

[Mike]

or you can open the brake fluid reservoir. i typically just push mine back in with the tip of a screwdriver and my hand (or screw them back in in the case of the rear), but the design of yours may be different.

[Ginger]

+ Both, this makes a considerable difference.

[.RJ]

With the pads in, stick a long, heavy duty screwdriver or small prybar through the center of the caliper and leverage it against the rotor so that it compresses the piston back into the caliper - thats your enduro pit stop brake pad change tip

[xvxax]

About the enduro pit stop brake change tip: by the time I realized DJ's c clamp was in Northern Virginia I had already put the new rotor on the truck. The truck has the style rotor where the studs are pressed directly into the rotor and the wheel bearings are pressed into the back, so so I tried to use the pressure from the back of the caliper and the screw driver trick and it wasn't happening. I was trying to save myself some work. I did take the cap off the reservoir, but thanks for the tip. That's a good trick. I am a sucker, I went to Lowe's because my roommate needed to and bought a $4 c clamp. If anyone needs to change a 4wd rangers brakes in Harrisonburg, I'm your man.

[.RJ]

The truck has the style rotor where the studs are pressed directly into the rotor and the wheel bearings are pressed into the back, so so I tried to use the pressure from the back of the caliper and the screw driver trick and it wasn't happening

Huh, weird - isnt there a big ass axle nut holding it all together?

[xvxax]

It holds the rotor onto the spindle and the outer wheel bearing on. The inner rear wheel bearing is held in by a sleeve that you have to press or in my case pound in.

[xvxax]

Oh, I completely forgot to add the most important part of my explanation. Oops. Since I had already installed the new rotor, I didn't want to nick it prying against it with a screwdriver. This wouldn't have been a problem if I'd left the old rotor on, but I took the lazy way out.
Instead I tried to pry against the piston using leverage from the other side of the caliper and that wasn't enough to budge it. I have one side in, looks like rain and snow will probably keep me away tomorrow.
For anyone who wants a bottle of Wearever brake clean and/or Wearever dot 4 brake fluid (yeah, its the good stuff) I will accept one 5 piece nugget from Wendys per bottle (limit 2).

[Jeff]

Didn't read it all. Do you still need the caliper spreader? I can bring it if I come down to the burg today.

[xvxax]

No, i'm a total sucker and purchased my own. Thanks for the offer though.