Adam's Talon needed maintenance, DJ needed a car, trade?

[D_Eclipse9916]

Alright well Adam offered me his car to use since mine is down for a while and he needed some maintenance done on the Talon. So we struck a deal that we would both benefit from.

This is also to keep Adam up to date on the progress of the car and what needs to be done.

After having the car 3 weeks now, ill surmise what needs/should/annoying fixes need to be done

Done -Timing Belt Job and everything that goes with that
Done -Valve Cover Gasket
Done -Oil filter Housing Gasket
- -1g Manifold cracked, upgrade to 2g Manifold
Done -Lifters ticking, swap to revised lifters
Done -Axle leaking
Adam -Passenger Side tie rod fuxored
Adam -Bent wheel/tire?
Done -Alignment
Done -Thermostat
Done -Head Unit
- -Possible 2g o2 housing
- - Broken exhaust manifold studs (switching to SS units)
Done -Timing Belt Cover
- -Fuel Pump 255 walbro

Fixed a few of the issues, finding time when its not a bajillion degrees out to do this and make sure I have all the parts so the car is not down more than a few hours.

First thing within receiving the car 24 hours was take care of the horrendous vibration in the car. Swapped my 5zigens on and switched to a 2g leather shift knob because I hate horse cock shifters.

Already took care of the thermostat and thermostat gasket. Then went to advance auto and warrantied out the axle and replaced that already, only to look down and see an outer tie rod thats definitely fuxored (let me know if you want me to take care of that Adam). Whats annoying is I just got the car aligned.

On order are the exhaust manifold studs and the oil filter housing gasket. Once those come on I can take care of the exhaust manifold and studs. Once the oil filter housing gasket comes in ill be able to take care of the timing belt.

Adam, you will NEED to find new wheels/tires for the car before tracking it.

Pictures will be up shortly!

[ViPER1313]

Whats wrong with the rimz? Tires from my SHO are going on - those old Goodyears are going away and the SHO will get Jason's tires.

How is the outer TRE bad? Lots of play(replace) or just a broken boot (ignore)?

Thanks for the update.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Its a broken boot. I dont know why I didnt notice it when I pulled to swap wheels, but I definitely noticed it when I pulled the wheel to take care of the axle.

Also had the car up on a jack today and noticed the oil pan was dented in pretty seriously.

the rimz will be fine if they balance out, but it was horrendous if it was just tires. Who knows. You can try it, but I wouldnt run it without at least checking.

[ViPER1313]

Its the tires, not the rims - those tires had TONS of weights on the other set of rims they were on as well, and they are way too small for the rims.

I know about the pan, unless you are feeling ambitious don't worry about it.

[D_Eclipse9916]

k well the pan may be one source of the leak (they are notorious on our cars for leaking if not perfect), if you find me a pan ill make it the last thing on the list, and if I dont have time I wont get to it, but if I do ill take care of it.

Oh and pictorzz...

[ViPER1313]

Did you paint the hood?? Damn that looks good.

Resists urge to buy rims....

[D_Eclipse9916]

AHahah I didnt pain the hood, thats my last priority, rather get the mechanicals done first. You cant tell in pictures the hood though lol.

[Dave]

are you pulling the balance shaft while doing the T-belt? (I think that's the thing that you can remove without any adverse effects...)

And seriously, go ahead and do the pan now while you're doing all this intensive work...

[Nis01]

Damn DJ, that's one hell of a list to accomplish. I thought I saw Adam's car when I stopped by Harrisonburg...

[D_Eclipse9916]

are you pulling the balance shaft while doing the T-belt? (I think that's the thing that you can remove without any adverse effects...)

And seriously, go ahead and do the pan now while you're doing all this intensive work...

No, balance shafts should stay in. I think this is a retarded idea on most people to get rid of them (a lot of people do without knowing really why in the dsm community). The oem belt will hold plenty. The balance shaft belt only revolves twice as fast as the timing belt so at stock redline it is still only at 14,000, its a plenty strong belt for that. Now if your revving to 10-12,000rpm (drag cars), yes I would get rid of them, but no need for an almost bone stock car.

Negative side effects are the bearings in stubby shafts always seem to go bad, always seem to leak, and also increase oil pressure dramatically necessitating porting out the oil filter housing hole.

I will be keeping my balance shafts in my engine build and Ill be able to go up to about 9k. Im using stronger aftermarket belts though. The "Kevlar Composite belts".

[Dave]

My DSM already had them out, so I'm not going to argue it.

I don't really even know what the balance shaft really accomplishes, but considering that it isn't a necessity and that it has above stated negative components, I still think I'd remove them, if for no other reason that to mitigate the chances of failure.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Lol I am not saying you were wrong, its just my opinion. At this point watching the numbers on the board (the people that do balacne shaft removals) ive seen 10x the amount of failures for balance shaft removal kits and almost taking out the timing belt, than balance shaft belts failing.

[Maengelito]

did Shep keep them in or did he take them out?

[Shep]

Shep has 8 balance shafts - 2 for each piston - its the only way to contain the massive power of my engine

[Dave]

Lol I am not saying you were wrong, its just my opinion. At this point watching the numbers on the board (the people that do balacne shaft removals) ive seen 10x the amount of failures for balance shaft removal kits and almost taking out the timing belt, than balance shaft belts failing.

Hah, no worries. I'm only posting my (extremely) limited experience and the reasoning behind it. The car had 250k on the original engine, so I think it still ultimately boils down to maintaining it properly.
If I had a DSMpile, I'd definitely be doing a bit of research to determine the pros and cons of both sides before spending money/making decisions.
I also have to point out that, while I have met quite a few very knowledgeable DSM people, the forums are absoltely overrun with jackasses, which might also explain how they have managed to turn a mod that should be making the engine better into a liability.

[D_Eclipse9916]

did Shep keep them in or did he take them out?

He is not running them. He revs upwards of 12,000rpm. As I said, I do not suggest it for drag applications for insanely high revs. In my case and 90% of dsm cases, it only causes more problems than it fixes. I wouldnt run a Huge ported out 1g head even though its good for a drag application, does not work well at all in my application.

Edit: Dave that is true. However id rather risk a kevlar belt breaking than ttthe likelihood of "rigging" up a different shaft/bolt/and seal. In this case I beleive Mitsubishi did this for the reliability of the engine. In fact this Mitsubishi design is what is probably in the majority of your cars that you buy. Many companies use this design and pay for licensing of it in their own vehicles.

[D_Eclipse9916]

For Dave, if you care or not.

This is how a proper set up should be done, not the jbweld jobs done on most dsm engines, and this is how I would do it, IF I were to do it. But I still hear of plenty of problems wayyyyy more than belts breaking. A belt should not break unless its defective, improperly tensioned(installed) or gets oil/rubbing/other improper installation problems. Id rather get as much vibration out of a motor as possible, why I got my engine blueprinted and balanced, and will be getting a fucking 400 dollar ATI harmonic dampener for it.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ffwdconnection.com/bsek.shtml">http://www.ffwdconnection.com/bsek.shtml</a><!-- m -->

[Dave]

word, thanks for the insight.
Aside from holding an oil pan sealed for the drive home (Chan), I'm not really keen on using JBWeld to hold anything together inside my engines :-)

[D_Eclipse9916]

Got some work on it done today between my 12:05 class and 5:05 class. Sooo...I got a few things done


Took off all the accessory belts/powersteering pump, lower/upper timing covers and crank pulley. Then removed the timing belt after setting everything TDC. Crank pulley was in BAD condition. The rubber between the two pulleys is falling apart and the pulley will fail soon so thats getting replaced, ill be going tomorrow to the dealer to order that, hopefully itll be in stock *crosses fingers*.

Took her apart, took out the old lifters and rockers and cam seals. Below are pictures compared the old (small little pinholes on top), and new ones which are pictured already in the head. Bleed the new ones and threw them in. Took out the cam seals and they were basically hard plastic at that point, and definitely showed signs of leakage. So replaced those.
Then had to put the motor mount temporarily back on, put wheel back on and jack her down so it doesnt like like im fixing her before I showered up and left for class.

Here are pics so you can see comparisons of the lifters, and also Adam the condition of your head. Also btw, there was oil CAKING EVERYTHING, I took some brake cleaner to it, but goddamn its messy down there (timing belt area and oil filter housing)

[D_Eclipse9916]

Also Adam, the belt that I told you was missing that you needed, there is no part number for it on the price sheet, so you didnt buy it. Got it and here is a breakdown so far without the timing belt of parts/essentials needed. Some may be returned if not used, and all used my discounts...Of course im keeping all the receipts.

OIL GTX HIGH MILEAGE GALLON $13.58
BELT DAYCO $15.98
OIL HIGH MILEAGE QUART $3.58
BRAKLEEN $2.74
VALVE COVER GASKET SET $26.87
ThERMOSTAT $7.18
WATER OUTLET GASKET $.77
THREADLOCKER BLUE $7.98
THREADLOCKER RED $3.85
3G LIFTERS $65
CRANK PULLEY $??????