repair

**Chris** · 03-10-2004, 09:51 PM

well the check engine light resulted in a replacement of the O2 sensor. Not a fun bill but its fixed. I spent some time trying to remove the oil drain bolt, but its def. stripped and just spins. The oil only leaks out a little bit, so its ok for now. After some calls and reading, I realized the actual oil pan is stripped. Apparently there is only a small washer spot welded on the inside of the pan that has the treads to hold the bolt. I ordered a used oil pan and it will be here Friday. The problem is I can't drain the oil, so I'm either going to be very careful and remove the pan full of oil or should I drill a small hole in the pan to drain it? Does the oil just sit in the pan or is it at a level higher than the top of the pan?

RJ, I know you recently did something with your oil pan. Is this a hard task? From what I can see, there is only one bolt near the side of the tranny that will be hard to reach.

Hopefully I haven't made a poor decision, but putting in an oversize drain bolt may only be a temp. fix, and I'm home now where I can work in the garage and don't want to do this again.

Kaan · 03-10-2004, 10:30 PM

try to put a small screw driver (flat head) between the bolt and pan while wrenching on it.. it might help get the threads to catch. when in doubt, drop the pan with the oil in it... just know that it has it in there and you might need an extra set of hands.

.RJ · 03-10-2004, 10:52 PM

Well to get the bolt out, do what kaan said. Then drain the oil.

To drop the pan its not that hard. You will need to separate the lower part of the exhaust manifold from the upper - access the two nuts holding the two pieces together from under the car, no need to remove the heat sheild - 12mm deep socket and some long extensions from underneath, and then the lower pipe should hang down with enough clearance to drop the pan.

[edit] Get under the car and take a look... this may or may not be neccessary, but it was for my car

There may be a brace between the block and the transmission thats in the way of the pan, if there is remove it. Once thats out, there's about 312 10mm bolts holding the pan to the block. Remove them all, then the pan ought to drop. If it doesnt, pry it off with a screwdriver, or just whack it with a BFH since you are angry at it anyways.

Its probably a good idea to put a new oil pan gasket on at the same time, since the pan is off and its probably seeping anyways. Just make note of the orientation of the old gasket so you can put the new one on.

Reinstallation is the same as removal. *DO NOT* overtighten the bolts/nuts that hold the oil pan to the block. The torque spec is 8 ft-lbs - use a 1/4" drive ratchet and do not use much leverage on them. Tighten from the corners inward in an alternating pattern from side to side.

KPWSerpiente · 03-11-2004, 01:54 AM

If you're doing this in the burg or in NoVa I'll come out and assist. I have a bunch of my own stuff to take care of tomorrow, but Friday would be good.

Get a new gasket for the pan. RJ says a good idea, I say a must have. Steal one if you need to.

-T

Dave · 03-11-2004, 09:41 AM

I'm always up for some wrenchin, just let me know if you need help.
To get the oil out, just get a good sized drill bit and put a bunch of holes in the bastard (should be suitable punishment for the hell its giving you), but be careful not to push the bit in.
Get a new gasket and your engine will be good as new.

Evan · 03-12-2004, 12:36 AM

If you cant get the threads to catch, I would definately drill a hole in the pan. Trying to lower a pan full of oil is a recepie for a whole lot of oil on the ground

KPWSerpiente · 03-12-2004, 04:00 AM

If you plan on drilling through the pan, keep a can of WD40 with you and keep spraying it on the bit as you're drilling. It'll make life easier.

-T

Dave · 03-12-2004, 08:18 AM

KPWSerpiente Wrote:If you plan on drilling through the pan, keep a can of WD40 with you and keep spraying it on the bit as you're drilling. It'll make life easier.

-T

also lets ya keep that drill bit to be used later. If you don't use some kind of lubricant, the pan will chew up the bit from the metal-on-metal friction. Course, once you get through, you'll have plenty of lube flowing all over you, so you might want to have your oil pan sitting under the drill when you do it Big Grin

**Chris** · 03-12-2004, 10:10 AM

thanks guys, I'm actually doing the work today at home wiht a friend. I bought a new gasket and have a repair manual for all the details. I'll try the drilling and wd-40. Its in my parents garage so I don't want a huge mess! Confused

hock:

.RJ · 03-12-2004, 10:20 AM

I would avoid drilling out the pan if possible. Thats going to get messy.....

Evan · 03-12-2004, 02:03 PM

.RJ Wrote:I would avoid drilling out the pan if possible. Thats going to get messy.....

and trying to lower a pan full of oil isnt going to be messy?

.RJ · 03-12-2004, 02:21 PM

Meaning get the dayum drainbolt out Tongue

**Chris** · 03-13-2004, 11:50 AM

well everything worked out well. I did have to drill a hole and drain it, but caught it in a drain pan. The only problem we ran into was once the pan was free it wouldn't lower bc of the exhaust pipe. That was fun... had to remove the bolts from the exhaust and lower it a couple inches to get the pan out. Its all back together now, but I couldn't tighten the exhaust bolts enough. There is a slight leak that I hear when I'm on the gas. Does anyone in the burg have deep sockets that would fit around the end of a screw and reach a bolt further up on the screw? I'll need to do that Mon. or Tues. when I'm back.

**Mike** · 03-13-2004, 12:56 PM

Yeah I've got a full socket set.

**Chris** · 03-16-2004, 12:49 AM

well thanks to mike I had the correct sockets to use. I'm still having a problem though, maybe someone can give some advice. Today I took out the 3 bolts again holding the 2 exhaust pipes together so I could hopefully get a better seal. 2 bolts went back in fine, but the third was stripped (seems to be my trademark). Went to advance and got a new bolt, got it in but it still won't tighten. Sealed all the way around the 2 joining pipes with RTV, just to see if it would help. I still hear a slight leak when I'm on the gas and between shifts. Should I just ignore it or try and tighten it again?

.RJ · 03-16-2004, 12:53 AM

Do not use RTV on exhaust pipes as a gasket.... replace the bolt/nut.

Evan · 03-16-2004, 08:58 AM

if you arent going to fix it the "proper" way, there is super high temp copper RTV made for exhausts

**Chris** · 03-22-2004, 04:33 PM

my oil light has been coming on lately when i first start the car. It only stays on for 5-10 seconds, and I was wondering if the fuse needs to be reset. It's only been like this since I replaced the oil pan.

**Mike** · 03-22-2004, 06:05 PM

Just checked mine, it comes on for 1-2 seconds when I start up.

BLINGMW · 03-22-2004, 09:05 PM

if it's really 5-10 sec after the engine has started, that's a long time. Most of those oil lights are set to come on at some very low pressure like 5psi, and it taking that long just to build that pressure would make me a bit concerned as to if it's ever getting to the pressure it should. If I were looking to buy a car, and that oil light took much longer than a second after startup, I would pass. :? Hell, the busted E30 I baught up in VA that didn't even have any oil in it and hadn't been started in months took less than 10 sec the first time starting to turn off the light once I put some oil in it. However, unless you somehow damaged the pump or pickup, I don't see how changing the oilpan could have caused this unless there was oil pouring from a damaged gasket or something. Or did you change to a much lighter weight oil or not put enough in? "Resetting a fuse" doesn't make any sense to me, what exactly do you mean? Maybe the sensor is going bad? I just can't think of anything else. Ever wanted to install an oil pressure gauge? Maybe now's the time so you don't have to guess anymore! :wink:

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