I stripped one of holes for the exhaust manifold. So I need to drill, tap and slide in a helicoil. Someone care to walk me through this? Maybe tricks or problems you ran into.
Also,
Can I take the car to the track with a missing manifold stud? I have 5/6 with the stripped one on the far side of the manifold.
Two feet.
Have you tried tapping it first? sometimes the threads can be cleaned up enough with that. I have taps if you need to borrow one.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
This happened just now so I haven't tried anything. When can I come over to borrow the tap? I might just end up buying a set myself.
Two feet.
I'll be home tomorrow night after 7:30. Bring my power inverter
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
i cant imagine it'll be terrible as long as the missing stud isnt blowing exhaust fumes along a brake line or fuel line or something like that. when i had replaced my exhaust manifold in my integra, i had F'ed up one of the studs and drove it around like that for about a week or so. the only problem was that it sounded like a lawnmower
1994 Ford Ranger
2004 Honda S2000
2007 BMW X3
Go buy a hellicoil repair kit for the size bolt you stripped out. Basically, you drill out the hole to one size larger (whatever the kit tells you), use the provided tap to create new threads, screw the hellicoil (so it is flush with the hole / 1-2 threads in, I forget???) into the newly tapped hole and break off the tab on the end of the coil with a screwdriver / plyers. Real easy as long as you get the correct kit and there is no bolt / stud broken off flush with the hole.
As for their strength, I think they are pretty damn strong. I have been using one in the brake hub of my car for 5k miles and no ill effects :roll: .
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.
2012 Ford Mustang
1995 BMW 540i/A
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
I'm just going to go buy a helicoil kit and a tap kit and finish this thing off.
Two feet.
You shouldn't have any problems with the helicoil. They're relatively straight forward and hold very well if installed correcty.
my exhaust manifold leaks if you look at it wrong, let alone if you leave out a stud.
how much are replacements? i got one off of ebay for $35 shipped. would be worth it IMO to do that
Just bought a helicoil kit for 55.00 bucks. I hate Ben Dover. He's an asshole.
Two feet.
Andy Wrote:Just bought a helicoil kit for 55.00 bucks. I hate Ben Dover. He's an asshole.
ouch! What size?
I use these, <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.timesert.com/">http://www.timesert.com/</a><!-- m -->
To install, Pretty simple, just make sure you use the EXACT size drill bit they call for, you don't have it, go buy it, nice sharp bit! Also use a lube (no WD40 is NOT the proper lube) get some good Cutting oil like Tap Free, use it when you drill the hole and when you TAP the hole. Make SURE you drill straight, make VERY sure. Same when you TAP, make sure you insert the tap straight and provide even pressure to the CENTER of the tap for the first few threads (use a T handle), after that all you need to do it turn the tap, no more pressure, the tap will draw itself down. Every 3-4 rounds back the tap out and clean out the hole with compressed air, go all the way thought. Then screw in the insert using the tool provided and run it down 3-4 threads past the surface, follow the directions and snap off the end. If you use the tool they provided correctly the insert won't come out when you remove the bolt in the future. I have these things all over my alum enging block, they are stronger than the original threads so they are a GOOD thing!
It's a M10x1.25. I'm going to drill with the t-handle, and pray that it doesn't jack my threads up further.
Two feet.
Andy Wrote:It's a M10x1.25. I'm going to drill with the t-handle, and pray that it doesn't jack my threads up further.
If you drill it out you should remove ALL the threads. That is why you run the TAP down it to make NEW threads, then insert the coil to match up to your old bolt.
Don't use the drill bit in the T Handle, use the drill bit in a DRILL then use the t-handle for the TAP.
white_2kgt Wrote:Andy Wrote:It's a M10x1.25. I'm going to drill with the t-handle, and pray that it doesn't jack my threads up further.
If you drill it out you should remove ALL the threads. That is why you run the TAP down it to make NEW threads, then insert the coil to match up to your old bolt.
Don't use the drill bit in the T Handle, use the drill bit in a DRILL then use the t-handle for the TAP.
I've heard otherwise. Helicoil says to use a T-handle and not a drill. Why do you suggest a drill?
Two feet.
Andy Wrote:white_2kgt Wrote:Andy Wrote:It's a M10x1.25. I'm going to drill with the t-handle, and pray that it doesn't jack my threads up further.
If you drill it out you should remove ALL the threads. That is why you run the TAP down it to make NEW threads, then insert the coil to match up to your old bolt.
Don't use the drill bit in the T Handle, use the drill bit in a DRILL then use the t-handle for the TAP.
I've heard otherwise. Helicoil says to use a T-handle and not a drill. Why do you suggest a drill?
They say use a T-Handle to drill a hole, are you sure? :retarded:
do a google search for how-to helicoil read the first few results, ALL say to DRILL the hole first, this page, <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/howto/insert/index.html">http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/how ... index.html</a><!-- m -->, goes a step further and uses an end mill in a drill press (which would be the BEST). Nobody in their right mind would DRILL a hole using a t-handle and drill bit in these days of electricity. Are you SURE you are not confusing drill the hole with TAP the hole (when you will use the T-Handle).
white_2kgt Wrote:do a google search for how-to helicoil read the first few results, ALL say to DRILL the hole first, this page, <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/howto/insert/index.html">http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/how ... index.html</a><!-- m -->, goes a step further and uses an end mill in a drill press (which would be the BEST). Nobody in their right mind would DRILL a hole using a t-handle and drill bit in these days of electricity. Are you SURE you are not confusing drill the hole with TAP the hole (when you will use the T-Handle).
Yeah. I'm would think that using a t handle with a drill bit would prevent any sort of slip up and be really screwing up the head.
Couldn't I just skip the drill process, go straight to tapping it and threading in the insert?
Two feet.
Andy Wrote:Couldn't I just skip the drill process, go straight to tapping it and threading in the insert?
NO. You risk breaking the TAP, then you are in REAL trouble.
Look, on the package it WILL tell you what size drill bit to use, go buy that exact size bit, put it in a drill and drill STRAIGHT, use cutting oil (motor oil will work if you are to cheap to buy actual cutting oil).
Blow out hole w/ compressed air.
Then use a T-Handle to TAP that hole, straight, again, using cutting oil or be a cheap ass and use motor oil, back the TAP out every 3-4 turns and blow out w/ compressed air.
Screw in the insert using the provided tool, run it down 3 threads past the top of the surface and break off tab.
That is the tried and true process, deviate from it at your own risk.
The head I put on Nick's Spirit has 5 of the exhuast mani bolt holes helicoiled. Make sure you follow the package exactly and take your time.
Jeff Morrison - Used Car Manager
Woodstock Garage, Inc.
Chrysler - Dodge - Jeep - RAM
Current Stable of Mopar Junk
57 Chrysler Windsor 4drHT - 67 Dodge D100 Short Bed Step Side - 71 Dodge Challenger - 91 Chrysler Lebaron LX 33k mile Survivor - 91 Dodge Dakota V8 - 05 Chrysler Crossfire Roadster - 08 Ram 2500 Cummins
Done and done. Really wasn't that big of a deal.
Two feet.
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