My SRT-4 is supposed to be putting out 14 psi, and it did ... for 3 whole months. Now i peak at 7 psi, and i only reach 4 psi in first! I wanna figure out the problem before taking it in to the dealership, cuz I don't really trust the Dodge techs ... especially down here.
I'm guessing it's a bad WGA. If anybody can think of what else it might be i'd like to hear it. I'm used to carburated V8s, so most of this stuff is new to me.
thanks.
Don't worry . . . it's only a neon.
i would think the WGA first, but umm.... is your car covered under warranty still?
I'd take it in, just b/c im lazy like that
Reacinig 4psi in first might be ok. I'm not familiar with the SRT-4's, but many cars with turbos do not reach their full boost in first, and sometimes not until third do they fully kick in.
It might just be a bad boost control solinoid. If you car is under warrantee, take it in. It could only be one of about two or three things. Just ask for the best tech because dealerships have various levels of techs, and they know which one is the best.
Good luck!
http://www.85xr.com
1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
boost leak in piping? WGA and solenoid are also good possibilities
from what i've read (in grm) the srt4 is limited to low psi in first, a bit more in 2nd, and only full in 3+.
I Am Mike
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my impression from what Matt is saying that it used to do this but would go up to 14 psi. Now, it still has the restrictions that it had, but instead only reaches 4 in first and peaks at 7 in the higher gears. I imagine it still went over 4 psi in 1st if working properly.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Yeah...It used to tear the crap out of my tires in 1st. So much torque I had to start launching in second in order to avoid burning out. Full throttle used to be scary, now it's just ... civic like 
Don't worry . . . it's only a neon.
Shoulda gone subaru ! :wink:
16 psi strong~
Posting in the banalist of threads since 2004
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my car peaks at like 11 psi in 1st, but the tach revs so fast its hard to say whether theres more to be had. i pull 14.5 in the rest of the gears though.
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2004 Honda S2000
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Your SRT-4 probably got a tank of low-octane fuel and knocked a little bit. SRT-4's ECU is VERY agressive about pulling back boost and timing when it senses knock.
My guess is that you've beaten the crap your car so hard that your ECU has pulled back the power in an attempt to save the car before you destroy it.
It should still be under warranty, take it in. If you've done some non-Mopar mods to it, that could also be the problem.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
Also, Bridgewater? Are you a BC student?
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
Car is bone stock... cuz i knew somethin was gonna break. I baby this bitch. It took me a few weeks to realize i wasn't hitting 14 psi cuz i very rarely push it that hard. The car is stock and very well maintained, which is why this is so wierd. I've had this problem for the last 3 tanks of fuel, so it has nothing to do with octane either. That was my first theory too.
And i go to JMU, i just live down here so that i get to drive more 
Don't worry . . . it's only a neon.
is there any way to test the WGA?
Don't worry . . . it's only a neon.
windsor Wrote:is there any way to test the WGA?
Considering the computer controlled boost, I can't think of any simple way off the top of my head.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
Since we're all complaining about boost...my car still won't hold it rock solid once I hit 5.5k. Bounces between 18-20psi after that though I've a dozen ideas on how to work it out.
If what Rex is saying is true...disconnect your battery, let it sit for a few minutes, and connect it again. But good gas in and see what happens.
-T
MIHS - hot cause we fly you ain't so you not
2004 Subaru WRX STi
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass
KPWSerpiente Wrote:If what Rex is saying is true...disconnect your battery, let it sit for a few minutes, and connect it again. But good gas in and see what happens. Good point. Does your car have a limp mode? If so, it is a very good chance that this is what is happening. Many limp modes won't allow an engine to rev over a certain point, this one may decrease the amount of boost. A quick ECU reset (removing battery terminals) may indeed reset it back to normal, but there is also the chance that it won't and you'll have to take it to a dealer.
Dave Wrote:A quick ECU reset (removing battery terminals) may indeed reset it back to normal, but there is also the chance that it won't and you'll have to take it to a dealer.
If it does work, don't leave it at that. Most of the time, a "limp mode" or "safety b00st" is initiated for a reason - theres a problem somewhere and the ECU doesn't want to destroy the engine... I mention this because noobs on TT.net get pissed that their cars keep going back to safety boost a few miles after a successful ECU reset..... Wonder why?
My two feet.
Sport Compact Car (as much as I hate to admit reading that trash) had the same problem with their Project SRT-4. Can't remember which month or anything, but it's been fairly recently.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
CaptainHenreh Wrote:Sport Compact Car (as much as I hate to admit reading that trash) had the same problem with their Project SRT-4. Can't remember which month or anything, but it's been fairly recently.
Whoa, are you implying that they ocasionally work on their project cars?
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-Ginger
KPWSerpiente Wrote:Since we're all complaining about boost...my car still won't hold it rock solid once I hit 5.5k. Bounces between 18-20psi after that though I've a dozen ideas on how to work it out.
-T
Could be your boost controller. If it doesn't have a large enough hole/valve, the boost will spike like that. Just an idea.
http://www.85xr.com
1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
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