Project 10AE Miata

[Maengelito]

Ive got a RX-8 shift knob, love it. screws right on. Ebay for cheap.

forgot about that, I think you were the one who told me originally that it fit. Its the perfect fit and balance for my hand, but if other people drive my car, I have to remind them that my car is not 6spd.

[Nis01]

Took a look at the Nardi knob, its in pretty decent shape. The top portion is a bit worn, not too noticeable though. I'm assuming the threads are fine in it. Looking through the box there is also a 10AE steering wheel in good condition. Might be a good replacement piece for your steering wheel. There was a cheapo steering wheel cover on it so its pretty well preserved. Let me know if you want this stuff.

[Goodspeed]

Maeng, thanks for the preliminary info, I plan on picking up that book. I'd love to talk suspension stuff if/when I can budget for that (hopefully soon)

Evan, I like the RX8 knob, and wouldn't mind picking one up, I just have to figure out how to get this one off! I like the console/storage idea too, something to look in to

Shea, thats awesome, I'll send you a PM in a little bit!

One more question for the Miata gang:

How does your Miata idle when warm, in traffic? Mine seems to be pretty erratic. Upon start, settles into 8-900rpm idle before takeoff, but once in traffic, sometimes it'll settle back to that at rest, other times it will hover at ~1200rpm, 1500rpm, or higher. Today it sat at 2k rpm at one light (A/C off, foot on the brake, no CEL) which alarmed me to this and started my research.

This is pretty much exactly what I'm experiencing. I've found a few more threads that allude a high idle issue after cleaning the IACV/throttle body and some others surrounding the IACV/Idle motor, but symptoms with that seem to center around an idle that doesn't drop below 1200rpm; mine does. I then doubt that the idle speed needs to be adjusted as this seems to occur 50% of the time when in traffic (purposeful slow granny shifting also showed idle not going below 1k as well at times). Again, some times this doesn't happen, some times it does.

So, any ideas? Is there some trademark issue I'm missing? That first link showed the remedy to be a new alternator, I don't quite understand how but that guy seemed to try everything before that. I haven't checked any codes or really looked at any vacuum lines...could it be a leak? Bad IACV? IACV/TB needing cleaning (though this seems hard to do without re-causing an idle issue)?

Thanks for any insight you may have. Obviously not a stellar issue, I'm just OCD and have to know 8)

[Mike]

omg goodpseed! it'll probably blow up tomorrow! quick! find out how to do an engine swap!

[Jake]

One more question for the Miata gang:

How does your Miata idle when warm, in traffic?

I believe Mazda says idle speed is 750. Mine is always very close to that with stock timing (11° iirc). Every so often it'll stumble right after I start it, but it gets right back up to 750.

Having the AC on will crank it up by about 100 rpm - and of course, I have to work double hard to get moving since it kills my power.

Keep searching on Miata.net and if us MM guys can't figure it out, I have a few other guys that would definitely take a look at it for ya.

[Maengelito]

mine stays at around 800-900 when warm (1k with the A/C on). The previous owner said it was idling at around 1500 sometimes so he cleaned the IACV just before I bought it. It hasn't gotten up that high again but I've only driven the car about 20k miles since I bought the car/he cleaned the IACV. From everything I've read, cleaning the IACV and the intake manifold will take care of like 99% of the idle problems. Welcome to owning a Miata, where your car will never be 100% because of little problems here or there.

[Goodspeed]

omg goodpseed! it'll probably blow up tomorrow! quick! find out how to do an engine swap!

I mean.....it could....

Let me rephrase that....I know its nothing major. I noticed it on the test drive, and in the past few days around town. I didn't think it was a big issue then, nor do I now, but it is something I'd like to fix, if for no other reason than to learn something new.

Maeng, thanks for the tip. What would you recommend to get any dirt/grime out of the valve...TB cleaner? Can 'o compressed air? I'll see if I can find a miata.net writeup on getting to the valve and how to clean it...

[Mike]

tb cleaner/carb cleaner... both will work. maybe use an old toothbrush too. on a honda, the iacv is a little contraption hanging off the back of the intake manifold. two bolts and it's off. like a five minute task.

[WRXtranceformed]

It probably couldn't hurt to do a seafoam treatment with the sippy method through your intake manifold and clean out your IACV. There's probably years full of gunk stored up in your intake system. Do Miatas have a MAF sensor? If so I would pull it and blast that off with a non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

[.RJ]

Do Miatas have a MAF sensor? If so I would pull it and blast that off with a non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

Please, do not use brake cleaner. There is a specific cleaner for MAF sensors - I am pretty sure I have a can in my garage if you want me to send it down to HBG with someone, or I may be somewhat nearby (Luray) this weekend.

[WRXtranceformed]

As long as it's non-chlorinated and you let it dry before re-installing it should be fine. I've used brake cleaner on all of my Suburus' MAFs sensors and my Tundra if I remember right. If you have a bottle of dedicated MAF cleaner and it makes you feel better though, by all means.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Do Miatas have a MAF sensor? If so I would pull it and blast that off with a non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

Please, do not use brake cleaner. There is a specific cleaner for MAF sensors - I am pretty sure I have a can in my garage if you want me to send it down to HBG with someone, or I may be somewhat nearby (Luray) this weekend.

+1, Goodspeed, I have some MAF cleaner you can use. However I suspect it is either a dirty/bad IACV or a vacuum leak. Im trying to make it out to the junkyard this weekend for some stuff for the gsx so if there is a miata ill jack one real quick.

[Evan]

my idle is rock solid at 850.
2k sitting at a light is really strange.

take the top half of the intake manifold off and clean out the passages, they get clogged with carbon pretty quickly. Really get in there and clean it well, first time I cleaned it I didnt get everything. Its a common issue in 99s, this can also cause a CEL.

seafoam through the top end should help too. do it right before an oil change and plug change.

[Evan]

Evan, I like the RX8 knob, and wouldn't mind picking one up, I just have to figure out how to get this one off!

Ive never seen the Nerdi knob, but my aftermarket momo knob didnt screwn on, it had some set screws covered up by a trim ring at the bottom of the knob.

[Goodspeed]

Thanks for all the ideas/replies all. Quick update - car behaved much better today (cooler weather if that means anything). I noticed it didn't do any high-idle on the first trip out of the garage; after parking and coming back to the car/starting/resuming driving it did a bit of the ~1200rpm stop idle, nothing higher. I also noticed that when it did to the 1200, the idle dropped slowly, almost like a sticking throttle or something.

I got a can of CRC throttle body/air intake cleaner today, so I'll probably take the TB/IACV/Intake manifold apart one of these days and clean them all really good. People seem to have issues if they put it all back together same day without proper drying, so I'd let 'em sit overnight.

Stupid thought - when inspecting the car, I got under the hood and revved it off the throttle body a little to listen closely. That can't throw the cable out of whack, can it?

Thanks again!

[Mike]

I got under the hood and revved it off the throttle body a little to listen closely. That can't throw the cable out of whack, can it?

not unless you are able to stretch cables with your hands.

[D_Eclipse9916]

He's beast, he can stretch AN fittings with a quick flip of a wrench

[Goodspeed]

Update: car is awesome, I love it.

So, Daniel (the PO) read this thread after I linked him to it and commented that he's cleaned out the TB before, and he hinted that at times when he drove it he'd have to put his foot under the accelerator and nudge it up a little at the top of its travel when the idle did what its doing to me.

Sure enough, I give it a shot at a light and the idle drops back to normal from like 2k. Huzzah! So where should I look? Sounds like the pedal assembly is sticking somewhere...I've heard of sticking throttles before but what would y'all recommend beyond spraying wd40 into the footwell. Any kind of special area and grease I should focus on/use? TIA.

[Steve85]

I believe most cars have the spring on the TB or Carb, not the pedal. I would be looking at possibly a worm TB blade shaft and or bushing. If either is worn, the blade can get hung up in the bore.

Of course, look for any obstructions to the pedal, the TB and make sure the cable is routed properly.

[Goodspeed]

Little project I completed a few days ago, thought I'd share for anyone looking to repaint any hard plastic exterior trim. I repainted the "front beltline moldings" on my car as they were really sun faded and worn looking and looked pretty bad, now they look 100x better. No original pic, but they looked like the left half in this pic

Materials (all purchased from Home Depot, ~$30 dollars)

Rustoleum black spray paint - 1 can
Rustoleum plastic primer - 1 can
Rustoleum clear lacquer - 1 can
220-grit sandpaper
320-grit sandpaper
600-grit sandpaper (water safe)
Blue painters tape
Spray bottle

Paint used:



My process:


- Sand with 220 grit - sand with 320 grit - wet sand with 320 grit - wet sand with 600 grit

- Spray moldings with single primer coat, evenly coating entire surface. Let dry overnight.

- Spray ONE light base coat. Don't worry about covering all the primer, this is just a test coat to make sure the surface is properly suited for continued painting. Let dry for at least one hour.

- Lightly wet sand the base/primer coat with 600 grit, clean and properly dry all surface moldings afterwards. Once dry, spray your first "true" coat of paint. Again, a light, beginning coat. Let dry at least 2 hours.

- Apply second, heavier coat. Let dry at least 2 hours.

- Apply third, heavier coat. Let dry at least 2 hours. Once dry, inspect moldings for any spots needing more paint to even out the look.

- Apply fourth, and final, coat, evenly over the moldings to ensure an even color and paint finish. Let moldings dry overnight.

- Finally, apply your clear coat. Same technique as the paint, just a light beginning coat.

- Apply second clear coat, and let the moldings again dry overnight.

Finished product