jongp3 Wrote:From what I understand and the charts I've looked at, B tranies share almost all the same gears, the difference is mostly with the FD gear.
B-transmissions share the same 1st and 2nd gear as they're cast into the mainshaft but thats it. GSR and ITR have MUCH tighter spacing for 3-4-5 with ITR being better than the GSR.
You can put a 4.4 in but it has to be from the B16 trans, not he ITR - the ring gear bolt pattern on the diff is different from the rest, but B16 and LS are the same. An ITR diff will drop in, but you have to change the ring gear (and countershaft to match). For the time/$$ involved you're probably just better off putting the US (not JDM) ITR trans in, rather than changing gears and diffs unless you're worried about autox classing.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
or a b16 tranny, which is identical and cheaper. don't worry bout an lsd.
I Am Mike
4 wheels: '01 RAV4 (Formerly '93 Civic CX, '01 S2000, '10 GTI, '09 A4 Avant)
2 wheels: '12 Surly Cross-Check Custom | '14 Trek Madone 2.1 105 | '17 Norco Threshold SL Force 1 | '17 Norco Revolver 9.2 FS | '18 BMC Roadmachine 02 Two | '19 Norco Search XR Steel (Formerly '97 Honda VFR750F, '05 Giant TCR 2, '15 WeThePeople Atlas 24, '10 Scott Scale 29er XT, '11 Cervelo R3 Rival, '12 Ridley X-Fire Red)
No longer onyachin.
Mike Wrote:or a b16 tranny, which is identical and cheaper. don't worry bout an lsd.
True - the LSD isnt a big deal with 140hp. The B16 transmissions may be higher mileage, just something to look out for.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
may be... may not... remember, they were made until 00.
I Am Mike
4 wheels: '01 RAV4 (Formerly '93 Civic CX, '01 S2000, '10 GTI, '09 A4 Avant)
2 wheels: '12 Surly Cross-Check Custom | '14 Trek Madone 2.1 105 | '17 Norco Threshold SL Force 1 | '17 Norco Revolver 9.2 FS | '18 BMC Roadmachine 02 Two | '19 Norco Search XR Steel (Formerly '97 Honda VFR750F, '05 Giant TCR 2, '15 WeThePeople Atlas 24, '10 Scott Scale 29er XT, '11 Cervelo R3 Rival, '12 Ridley X-Fire Red)
No longer onyachin.
get decent pads, new napa rotors and flush the fluid and you'll be fine.
1994 Ford Ranger
2004 Honda S2000
2007 BMW X3
Update:
Plans have changed for this car at least for now. This car is going to be my daily driver for awhile for one, I want to get a smaller platform to race, CRX or Del Sol come to mind.
I'll still be autocrossing this car maybe try an HPDE in it. At least until I get a house with a garage where i can park more then 1 car without relying on visitor spots.
So for this coming year my plans are to do some mild suspension and brake work, while still retaining from factory comfort for daily use.
I traded my old Stereo for some Eibach Springs, I believe they are the Sportline model which give about 1.7" drop. I plan to put these on some Koni Yellow's. Next step finding some? Anyone have any laying around? Or where is the best place to get these? I checked VaDriven and Honda-Tech there are quite a number of shops selling these. I hear the best thing to do for saving money is buy them used and have them rebuilt?
I also plan on at least changing out the brakes, some good pads, im thinking Hawk HP+ or should i stick with HPS? Brembo blanks they are like 22 bucks, why not? Speedbleeders, maybe some SS lines do these make the pedal to stiff?
Changing out the rear rotors because they are warped and some stock pads.
If I can, I'd like to change out the Rear Trailing Arm Bushings, mine are cracked and I'd imagine this is something that would affect such things as hard braking? Would like some opinions on what kind of bushing material to use.
Rear sway bar, I'm not sure if I should spend the money and go all out with the new ASR 32mm hollow rear sway bar? Would this be way to much? My alternative is to upgrade to the ITR sway bar which is 22mm Solid. From what i hear everyone says leave the front stock.
Finally got the rear sway bar installed.
I ended up going with a "JDM" ITR 23mm rear sway bar, and Beaks Kit Sub frame Reinforcement kit.
The install was alittle painful, working on the floor and trying to knock out welded nuts on the subframe in a space that is about 2 inches wide is much harder then people describe. I ended up taking someone elses advise and drilling those nuts out from the outside.
I got it all finished up and bolted up on Saturday Night, it was raining pretty good, so I didn't think I could push it that hard. But with the Azenis on I found it very hard to hydroplane. So I took it out on some back roads, and wow what a huge difference. The car feels flat now, night and day difference.
Next Step Brakes, I've decided on Hawk HPS and Brembo Blanks with Speed Bleeders. Sticking with stock brake lines for now.
I'm running Azenis now and they are much better then the SPTs. I guess you get what you pay for.
jongp3 Wrote:Brembo Blanks
Save your money and get Autozone blanks. I've never had a problem with them.
jongp3 Wrote:I'm running Azenis now and they are much better then the SPTs. I guess you get what you pay for.
They are two totally different tires.
I Am Mike
4 wheels: '01 RAV4 (Formerly '93 Civic CX, '01 S2000, '10 GTI, '09 A4 Avant)
2 wheels: '12 Surly Cross-Check Custom | '14 Trek Madone 2.1 105 | '17 Norco Threshold SL Force 1 | '17 Norco Revolver 9.2 FS | '18 BMC Roadmachine 02 Two | '19 Norco Search XR Steel (Formerly '97 Honda VFR750F, '05 Giant TCR 2, '15 WeThePeople Atlas 24, '10 Scott Scale 29er XT, '11 Cervelo R3 Rival, '12 Ridley X-Fire Red)
No longer onyachin.
FWIW - autozone blank rotors have gone up in price, I was a bit shocked when i picked up some new rotors.
Jon - I skimmed thru your thread, and saw you were talking about final drives, etc.
Check out <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mfactory.com">www.mfactory.com</a><!-- w -->, I plan on purchasing the 4.929 FD over the winter.
Mike Wrote:jongp3 Wrote:Brembo Blanks
Save your money and get Autozone blanks. I've never had a problem with them.
+1
They're all cast iron and will do the exact same thing. Sometimes you get one thats stamped "Made in Italy" which is I assume a Brembo blank at a lower price.
I've found that NAPA has the best prices on brake rotors for my Miata, not sure if its the same with the Integra.
1994 Ford Ranger
2004 Honda S2000
2007 BMW X3
navin Wrote:FWIW - autozone blank rotors have gone up in price, I was a bit shocked when i picked up some new rotors.
Jon - I skimmed thru your thread, and saw you were talking about final drives, etc.
Check out <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mfactory.com">www.mfactory.com</a><!-- w -->, I plan on purchasing the 4.929 FD over the winter.
Swapping to a B16 tranny would take much less time and effort.
I Am Mike
4 wheels: '01 RAV4 (Formerly '93 Civic CX, '01 S2000, '10 GTI, '09 A4 Avant)
2 wheels: '12 Surly Cross-Check Custom | '14 Trek Madone 2.1 105 | '17 Norco Threshold SL Force 1 | '17 Norco Revolver 9.2 FS | '18 BMC Roadmachine 02 Two | '19 Norco Search XR Steel (Formerly '97 Honda VFR750F, '05 Giant TCR 2, '15 WeThePeople Atlas 24, '10 Scott Scale 29er XT, '11 Cervelo R3 Rival, '12 Ridley X-Fire Red)
No longer onyachin.
Check out carquest as well. They've always had better prices for my Prelude and MR2.
-Also, rockauto is actually cheapest if you get all of the same brand rotors. Rotors for my MR2 is like 11 bucks but after shipping is more like 16 bucks a rotor.
Two feet.
Yeah, Car Quest is who i'm going through, I can still get the Dealer Discount through them. The pads were 80ish i believe, the "cheaper" rotors were 17.99, the Brembos were 22.99. Honestly i'll spend the 10 more bucks, i've had autozone rotors before and they seem to come warped already (have some on my rear brakes, and they came warped). I could have taken them back, but it wasn't worth my time after i had spent most of my morning working on something else and it was just the back brakes.
As for the FD, its something i'd like to do, if I do make this a pure track car, right now i want to get some nice things for the new house i'm renting. So money is going to that first and this is staying a DD for now.
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